Intro and Sanity Check (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 26, 2016
Threads
14
Messages
298
Location
Seattle
TLDR: Hello, I'm Cedar, just bought a LC, I want a mild lift, and I’m having trouble figuring out which springs to choose.

Hello all, my name is Cedar, and I’ve been lurking for a few months, just bought my first LC, a 2001 with 177,000 miles in very nice condition. It passed a thorough 90 minute inspection at a good garage, and had an encouraging carfax, so I think it is starting from a good place. Of course I’m changing all the fluids ASAP. So far we’ve taken it skiing a couple of times, and taken a couple of side-trips on some snowy FS roads. It was very slick and proved too much for the various cross-overs and lesser SUVs we saw stuck and spinning their wheels!

I’d like to lay out my plan for my new LC, and get a sanity check. I don’t want to make any silly mistakes selecting components. I intend to do all the work myself except the locker.


IMG_1394.jpg

The trip that inspired us to buy a LC. My friend's bike taking a dirt nap.


Motivation
:
Last summer I twice went on multi-day adventure motorcycle trips into the National forests near Seattle. We rented a 4Runner, and my wife and two boys came along. My wife drove the truck, and my buddy and I were on our motorcycles. Much to my delight, my wife and boys had a blast, and we decided to buy a truck instead of rent. We don’t currently have a large vehicle, so we wanted a truck that could play also play the part of the “minivan” when relatives are in town, but would let us indulge in our dirt fun too. First we were looking at 4runners, but we wanted something with three rows, and we couldn’t afford a new 3 row 4runner. We started looking at Land Cruisers, which I’d always liked, and were surprised at their reasonable cost for older ones, and impressed at their capability. We had worked that rental 4runner pretty hard, lightly scraped the bottom, and both front and rear bumpers a few times while we explored a section of the Naches Jeep trail, so we decided to get the LC and lightly upgrade it.

IMG_2362.jpg

Stock except for removed running boards


Goal
:
Maintain good on-road manners while increasing dirt capability, with bang for the buck being an important consideration. My improvements budget is about $5K, but I'm doing most of my own wrenching. I want to be able to go to some pretty tricky spots, even if I have to pick my way sometimes. On-road it will mostly be driven with a load of kids and relatives, but not much luggage. Kids are light, so lightly loaded on road. Off-pavement, maybe 250lb of gear, and 450lb of people. For the really tricky parts, passengers will be kicked out of the truck. Here is what I want to do:

  1. Raise 1” with tires.
  2. Raise 1” with suspension
  3. Sliders
  4. Front bumper (no winch for now)
  5. Rear air locker
  6. Rear Bumper???


IMG_6676.jpg

The Fam


The Plan:

Tires
(ordered): BFG KO2 285/75R16. Got 5 tires, with installation, for $955 from costco, which seemed like a good deal.


Suspension: This is where I have the most uncertainty. From what I’ve read, it seem like you lift the rear with new springs, then crank and/or replace torsion bars to match the height, all the while selecting appropriate spring rates and shocks.

For shocks, I’m leaning toward the Fox 2.0 Performance Series IFP which gets good reviews and is $500 for all four corners. I’m also interested in the Ironman Foam Cell for about $100 more. People seem to love or hate OME shocks, so I guess I’m leaning against taking the risk that I’ll be a hater. Haven’t seen many negative reports about the Ironman or Fox, but maybe I didn’t look hard enough.

Springs are tricky. I want a medium or stock load spring that raises me 1”, and is tad more stiff than stock, but I see conflicting information. For example, Slee and the OME website disagree about how much lift each spring provides. I went to the OME website and used their suspension parts picker, specifying no/light bumper.


Spring 2860 Slee says it is a medium load for 2.5” lift, OME website says 0.4”
Spring 2866 Slee says it is a heavy load for 1.5” lift, OME says negative(!) 0.4”

Could the fact that the Slee kits are “leveling” be the key to my confusion? I’d like to maintain the best on-road manners, and I assume that means leaving rake as Toyota intended it. Am I wrong? Please, god, someone just tell me what spring to buy!

Questions:
Is it reasonable to raise suspension 1” without a diff drop?
Is it reasonable to use stock torsion bars with an 80lb bumper, truck not driven very aggressively in the rough stuff?
What rear spring should I select for a 1” lift and medium load?
What are the downsides of “leveling” the truck, as opposed to maintaining the rake?
Do I need an alignment after raising the truck 1”? I know the current alignment is in-spec.


Bumper: Leaning toward the Dissent with no bars because of its light weight, good approach angle, and low profile looks.

Rear Locker: Leaning toward the TJM. I know ARB has a great reputation, but $$$. TJM rear is only $600 TJM Equipped PRO LOCKER 100 SER IFS 8” IFS W/ 50mm BEARING 30-Spline and I mostly see people saying good things about it. Would probably pair with this ARB air compressor: ARB LOCKER ON-BOARD HIGH PERFORMANCE 12 VOLT AIR COMPRESSOR CKMA12 OFFROAD 4X4 | eBay unless someone suggested something as good, but thriftier.

Question: Do places like Just Differentials or Torfab frown on customers supplying their own parts?


Rear Bumper: Not yet. But if anyone has suggestions for something with good clearance, light and strong, but without all the swingouts and accessories, I’m all ears. For now, our trips are short enough that we don’t need to carry a bunch of crap on the back of the truck, and I don’t like how swing outs block access to the back and are heavy.

Sliders: Probably the Metaltech. I like the rear fender bump out and the integrated step. But honestly, without seeing them, it is pretty hard to shop for sliders. If anyone has strong recommendations, I’m all ears.

Question: What is the difference between the Metaltech and the OPOR? Both are sold by Metaltech and they look very similar.


Thanks in Advance for all your advice! I'm excited to join the LC community!

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Congrats on the new rig and welcome to mud. I'll let those more qualified give their opinions on the lift and locker.
 
Questions:
Is it reasonable to raise suspension 1” without a diff drop? Yes. I have OME 2865 Medium 1.5" with cranked TB's. I have a 3/4" rake, barely noticeable.

Is it reasonable to use stock torsion bars with an 80lb bumper, truck not driven very aggressively in the rough stuff? Not sure i would put that much stress on the old TB's. Especially if your adding that much passenger weight. I would opt for OME TB's along with springs and get it over with.

What rear spring should I select for a 1” lift and medium load? I use OME 2865 Mediums and ride perfect with all rows loaded with passengers. Others will chime in with there springs of choice.

What are the downsides of “leveling” the truck, as opposed to maintaining the rake? If done correctly; none. @Manhattan i think has his leveled and has had no issues. Check with him.

Do I need an alignment after raising the truck 1”? I know the current alignment is in-spec. When cranking TB's i suggest an alignment.


Good luck and welcome! Nice budget to play with for sure. You'll have fun spending it. :)
 
Congratulations on the TLC.

Depending on its age and miles I'd consider getting heater line T-fittings. Super easy to replace.
T Fitting on Heater Hose
 
I'm not qualified to answer any of those questions, but I will say the only rear bumper thats ever caught my eye was the High Clearence bumper from Bump It OffRoad. If you really want to be frugal though, consider simply removing the plastic bumper cover and metal reinforcement plate, and removing the resonator - cheapest mod I've done so far (post#9187)
 
Slee has tons of real world experience and history with OME on USA specific 100 series, so their lift height numbers will be more realistic, based on a used truck with sagged springs.

Yes, you can either keep original torsion bars and tighten them up or replace with heavier options.

There are so many vehicles like yours around Seattle. Maybe find someone on here that has one and go for a ride to get a real feel of what the suspension will feel like.
 
You say you want the best on road ride. You'll LOVE the OME suspension then. The suspension handles like a sports truck. Don't listen to the haters, OME is legendary and knows their stuff. It WILL ride different than the stock squishy soft suspension but it tightens everything up, makes it more sporty and eats up rough roads without pavement. If I were you, with the tires you bought, I'd drop a 2.5" OME lift on it and never look back. You will want more lift as you go deeper into the woods, and as your family grows up wanting to haul more gear to play with.
 
Questions:
Is it reasonable to raise suspension 1” without a diff drop?
Is it reasonable to use stock torsion bars with an 80lb bumper, truck not driven very aggressively in the rough stuff?
What rear spring should I select for a 1” lift and medium load?
What are the downsides of “leveling” the truck, as opposed to maintaining the rake?
Do I need an alignment after raising the truck 1”? I know the current alignment is in-spec.

As for your questions.
1. Yes
2. Yes but you may find the ride becomes "harsher" since you are preloading the suspension. I ran mine for a year like that.
3. You should get an OME 2.5" medium lift and thank me later ;)
4. A little rake will help the steering feel of the truck on road. You can get it close to level but a little rake will help in the way it handles. When you weigh it down with gear it will often level.
5. Yes, anytime you mess with the front suspension you will want to get an alignment. I prefer using someone like Firestone who offer lifetime alignment for $150 bucks or so. I align my truck several times a year, before trips, after wheeling, after tweeking the suspension again etc.

Slee is right on how much height you can expect to gain, the OME numbers seem whack to me.

Something you didn't ask for: What should be my next mod after lift and tires?

Sliders.
 
Hey Cedar - Congrats on the 'Cruiser purchase!

I think @bucfl was thinking of a thread where I pointed out the downsides of eliminating the rake. I did have a dead-level 100 for about 48 hours... and it sucked! When the new suspension was installed (IronMan coils, TBs, shocks, SPC uppers...) the front was set level. The ride was incredibly harsh - like the shocks were swapped for rebar and the steering felt light and vague. Dropping the front down .75" or so, made all the difference. The steering felt factory, the brake dive was gone, but the ride was better than when I first got the 100 - 5-years-old and 39,000 miles on it.
 
Thanks for clarifying @Manhattan

I have a .75 rake and it feels fine for me also. My droop is max which I think is 70mm. I don't do any difficult trails so not too worried about it.

I would double check your cv boots for surface cracks. If you stay with the originals boots and crank the TB there a possibility they will tear. YMMV.
 
I would throw in spring spacers, crank the TB's, and run the truck like that for a bit.

The truck will most likely do what you need it to with that set up.

Jim

I ran lots of trail for a long time with cranked t-bars, rear spring spacers, and stock bumpers/no-running boards. As long as you're the labor I would just run it like that until you decide exactly what you want. I ended up skipping the 'intermediate' set-ups and went from cranked stock to OME rear springs, IronMan T-Bars, and most importantly Slee shocks. Now I float along with great speed and ease but get lots of bugs in my teeth due to the grin. Remember to keep some rake in it; performance not style and you'll be good!
 
I would throw in spring spacers, crank the TB's, and run the truck like that for a bit.

The truck will most likely do what you need it to with that set up.

Jim

THIS^
 
I have an OME 1.5 lift with no diff drop installed by the previous owner on my '03, and am running the same tire size. If you want to go for a ride sometime I'm in Seattle too. I like the handling, but don't do any off roading. Just snowy roads.
 
I'm glad you started this thread, I have many of the same questions.
 
There are so many vehicles like yours around Seattle. Maybe find someone on here that has one and go for a ride to get a real feel of what the suspension will feel like.

Yeah, like this guy @oftpiste haha
 
@AimCOtaco has good advice. Keep it simple and low budget to start with.

Also keeping your high mileage rig In close to stock form will continue to deliver reliable and relatively low cost service which is worth considering as you contemplate how much time and budget you have to devote to wrenching on your 100 vs time with your young family.

Start lifting, adding mods and a chain reaction of maintenance items rear their head, it's inevitable with a 180k rig. You will find yourself chasing a well documented list of fairly expensive parts and repairs. E

In stock form the 100 is very capable, and if driven correctly ATRAC minimizes the need for lockers (unless you plan on climbing ledges)
 
In stock form the 100 is very capable, and if driven correctly ATRAC minimizes the need for lockers (unless you plan on climbing ledges)

^^came here to say this. Lockers would make it easier, but I wouldn't pick that as an upgrade right now if budget is a concern. My 100 has taken me to through some gnarly places and yes, the ATRAC has gotten a workout, but I've never not made it to where I intended to go (spotters sometimes required ;)). An upgrade I'd pick over lockers and even a front bumper would definitely be a rear, as you're much more likely to drag the rear than the front (the lift would minimize this, of course) If you have a hitch, that will take most of the abuse for now.

Thumbs up on the Dissent bumper choice if you opt for a front first
 
I am currently running stock suspension except for tb crank. Running a BIOR front tube style bumper (100lbs?), rear bump (no acc) and sliders. I can run the moderate trails at URE with no issues (hitch rub!), just took a road/trail trip to VA to run shoe creek and back roads averaging 16 mpg. I have 865's sitting in garage to go on soon, only because I run a RTT most of the year, if not for that I would do as others suggest and crank tb's/spacers and ride! Maybe replace springs and shocks with new oem. I do have a factory locked rear!
 
Wow! What a great bunch of replies! Lots to think about. We've had everything from "go for the full 2.5" lift" to "spacers and crank t-bars only"! I really appreciate all the feedback, and I'll carefully consider each of your posts before I make final decisions.

oftpiste, Just looked at your profile, and I recognize your truck! I live 3 blocks from you (I'm at 25th and Helen), and pass your truck all the time when I go to work. I've admired it many times, and it always makes me happy when it shows up dirty. Can't believe it has 270K miles, it looks great! Would love to take you up on the ride offer, will PM.
 

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