Patassa

If you want to make/ buy a tool, the above solution looks great. Otherwise, cut mostly through the race with a die grinder, smack the cut with a chisel to crack the race the rest of the way through, then remove.

Of course could be to thick a snap ring. The factory snap ring is a 2.2mm. 90% of time I need to use a 2.4MM, that's with all new components that would effect gap, installed. 18% of time, I use a 2.6mm. 1% of time a 2.8MM and 1% of time a factory...

A quick follow up, it hasn’t done it since. Condensation be damned!

I too had a little wiggle. A little extra ugga duggas fixed mine as well.

I had that happen as well. Turns out the screws need to be tightened a bit more. I couldn't use the supplied tool, so used a screwdriver with the correct attachment and tightened it as much as it would and the side to side issue stopped.

Sorry but this is not correct, as one member stated a small crowbar jammed into the space can hold the nut, and I've personally taken a standard open ended wrench, grinded away a small amount of material to make it thinner and it fit into the top...

You can torque these with the bracket in place. I had to shave down a harbor freight 22mm (if I recall correctly) standard wrench and then it fit in the top of the bracket, no problem. You just need to hold the nut, torque the bolt head.

Ha, well, good point.

Hold out for one with zero rust (from the south) if you can.

i would not let the front axle seal keep leaking, you diff will run dry eventually, and grenade itself. Big $ if that happens. it's not that hard of a job, but you need the right tools and shop manual/ youtube videos / & time. The bearing repack...

Nvm

Do you have tools and access to YouTube ?

Valve covers. Tighten them down for first attempt, replace the gaskets if that doesn't work.

Gotta say, this toyota engineer was interested in probably the least interesting things for me. The driver's seat and the body welds. Also, why's he wearing a hard hat?

3 lefts = 1 right, with no clunks…

You can also you tube the chalk method, which consist of applying chalk to the tread, driving down a straight road, then checking the wear pattern. You would then inflate or deflate until you see even chalk wear.

No. Front diff blows up before the OEM CVs. The outboard shaft splines are usually toast and cause a lot of driveline slop well after 100k miles.

Are we stripping or snapping CV's alot on 100s?

Yeah same here, my family loads up with 6-700 lbs of gear for camping trips, so I went aluminum to save whatever weight I could.

If you're going from stock bumpers to aluminum I wouldn't plan on seeing an increase in gas mileage or lighter weight. The dissent rear bumper for example is bolted onto the existing metal of the rear bumper, you're replacing a plastic shell with...

Now you're a pro.

New 9006 low beam bulbs are in and working. I’ll update this thread if they go out anytime soon.

Do you have a diff drop up front? Someone recently on the forum spent a lot of time chasing down a clunk that ended up being diff drop bolts not being torqued to spec.

Makes me wonder what the mechanic would have done had the OP authorized the work. "Well we got in there and found a few surprises...."