in depth rear disc brake conversion (1 Viewer)

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That is what it's all about. People can tell you all they want but until you dig in and see it for yourself you'll never fully grasp it. That's why I love doing my own stuff.
 
How difficult (and safe) would it be to route those brakelines above the springs?

No can do.

I'm thinking about it anyway. Mocking up the new line routes with old lines, this looks sorta OK to me. I'm not really happy with the way the new rubber hose has to bend right out of the caliper, figured I'd have to make a trip to the speed shop anyway, how about if I got hoses that had bend built-in?
Then, is it stupid to have the brake line run over the U-bolt plates? Am I gonna curse myself every time I have to pull off the U-bolts or something? I'm even thinking that I could weld the tombstone tabs to the U-bolt plates...is that even stupider?
I just know that if I put the brake lines under the springs, I'm gonna find that one rock, or root, that does the impossible placement that pokes a hole in that hose.
Pics are just a general idea of what I'm thinking, I've got the tubing & ends & tools to make my own, but don't want to start cutting until I'm pretty sure that I'm not doing something stupid.
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mine go over the spring also .i mounted my T-fitting to my ubolt plate OEM shock mount .
i don't wheel my rig much anymore and have never broke my brake line off in the 10 years or so that i have had my rear disc brakes on my rig ..

my brake lines could use a reroute tho . i did this years ago before i new about the longer rubber hose between the frame and axle. back before the days of IH8mud

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So I am getting ready to do mine, and just want to know if I need to do anything with the 3rd member? Is there anything I need to do with the diff to pull out the axles?
 
Also, I need to fab a bracket for the proportion valve, is there anything out of the box that anyone has used?
 
Nothing out of the box that I know of. Just get some thin steel and use some tin snips if you have nothing else it'll be fine.
 
Or go redneck and use one of those angle brackets from the hardware store! :hillbilly:
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I admire your brakeline bend work, Rigger. I added a 2 lb. residual valve to mine as you did (mine's blue), but I find it's holding too much and causes the brakes to resonate with a load moan at slow speed. I'll probably wind up taking it out. I've run the rig on the highway for 300-500 miles since rdb install, so there must be some pad wear by now...
 
Correct me if i am wrong,but is that just a coupling to connect the short line to the long one and not a res. valve?
I have read Rigger's thread and found it to be very helpful as well as this one.
Thanks,John
 
Yeah I dont think that's a residual valve.
 
jsuthey, camcruiser13, you're absolutely correct. Somehow when I saw this in Rigger's thread (post 181), I thought it was a res valve. Even with the clearer shot here I still did until you mentioned it wasn't, then I saw that I was wrong. Oh well, it won't be the last time. My residual valve is at the back end, between the rear hard line and the soft line going to the coupler on the axle, so it's no big to pull it. Thanks for the good catch.
 
There's a Cadillac caliper that has the e-brake, I'll try to kind the part #.

I have an '82 with the same ebrake issue. Curious how the ebrake works with the Cadillac caliper.
 
Thank you!!!!!!!!!

This answered my question on if I needed to remove the rear inner axles. Those dredded C clips...Just cut off the brake backing plate with a sawzaw. Be carful not to hit the axle backing plate.
 
This answered my question on if I needed to remove the rear inner axles. Those dredded C clips...Just cut off the brake backing plate with a sawzaw. Be carful not to hit the axle backing plate.

bingo


unless of course your putting in a locker while you got things apart

wink wink
 
If you are to cut the back plates off, how do you get the bolts / nuts off? Do you grind them off from the backside and punch them torough the front? Or grind them from the back then puch the plates to the middle of the axle, then wiggle the bolts out?
 
I have the same brake parts but the issue is that it hangs low and at times will hit and the rocks and bend the pins. What I did is swop the calipers to the other side and move the brackets to the front. they will fit and still bleed the system too.
 
Thanks for this thread Cam! Just finished the swap, and pretty much used this as my bible. I did install an Aussie locker while I was in there...One issue I ran in to, was I couldn't get the fittings at the banjo bolts to not leak. Upon inspection, I discovered the fitting to be off set, and I had the fitting 180 degrees off. This stopped the fitting from seating on the caliper. I posted a question, but didn't get any response to look there. Since this looks like a go-to thread for the rear disc conversion, thought I would include this for some other sap like me who happens to install (both for me) their flex hose bass ackwards.
 
Also, I need to fab a bracket for the proportion valve, is there anything out of the box that anyone has used?

you don't need a bracket - the Wilwood valve is aluminum and really light - the hard brake line supports it well :meh:
 
i have done the rdb conversion I bought the new master cylinder from jt and got it all back together now the problem that i am having is the back brakes will tighter up after a few miles to the point where it will stop the vehicle almost. i have to crawl uder there and crack the bleeder valve to get it to release, i dont have any extra valves on it do i need to add one or is there something im missing?
 

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