in depth rear disc brake conversion

[Pighead]

Does you master cylinder still have the residual valves?

 

[caliwakeboarder]

im not sure

not really sure, the mc i bought from jt said its the one that they use when they do a disc brake conversion. so i just rebent my factory lines to the new mc and thats where im at now, do i need to pull something out from the mc or is it somewhere else on the vehicle.sorry this is my first yota build.

 

[camcruiser13]

x2 on that

 

[caliwakeboarder]

here is the mc that i have on my rig

i think im uploading a pic of the mc that i am running on my 40

 

[Volcano cruiser]

I have an '81 with the e-brake on the rear brakes rather than the tx case. Anyone have a good recommendation of a compatible caliper with a parking brake built in??

I have an '82 with the same ebrake issue. Curious how the ebrake works with the Cadillac caliper.

Guys,
The issue of what to do to replace the E-brake on post 78 40s is one of the biggest things that holds folks back from doing the RDB conversion. If you do a seach on e brake solutions you will see that there are probably four or five options out there and no body is completely happy with any of them. They range from, finding an intact original t case ebrake setup, to one of the new e brake t case disc and calipers kits to line locks. An additional point if you are considering a t case mounted solution, be mindful of the fact that there are kits for split cases and one piece cases and they are not interchangeable. I did my rdb using Toyota parts because they were easier to get where I was located at the time. There is a write up on it in the FAQ and you can see from my build thread how it worked out. I am 100% do the RDB, like most here the result is great, however have your e brake solution ready to deploy at the same time.

 

[brooklyn]

Hard Brake Lines to brake hose

Doing this install now. When I look up the brake hose, it shows that it is about 12" in length. In the pictures the "red looking" hard brake lines looked like you had them running almost the the end of the axle.

Later it looks like they were "cut back" - I am running a new hard line for the rear axle and curious how you approached this step.

Also, was the 12" length enough. I was looking for a 16-18" hose to give me a few more options to route the hose.

 

[camcruiser13]

Yes I did cut the line and then flared it at the length I needed. Very easy. Just practice and you'll be a flaring fool in no time. And yeah 12" is plenty

 

[pbgbottle]

you can can also cut a new slot in the caliper to get a better angle on the bango bolt if needed . see pics i posted here in post #11 in the thread below
i cut a new groove on the opposite side of the original groove to have my brake line come from the other side of the caliper to prevent the brake line from having to have the tight fit against the axle housing

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/302033-bleeding-monte-carlo-rear-disc-calipers.html

 

[hey you]

not really sure, the mc i bought from jt said its the one that they use when they do a disc brake conversion. so i just rebent my factory lines to the new mc and thats where im at now, do i need to pull something out from the mc or is it somewhere else on the vehicle.sorry this is my first yota build.

How did you resolve the rear brakes tightening up on you? Did you remove a residual valve from the MC?

 

[kurtnkegger]

How did you resolve the rear brakes tightening up on you? Did you remove a residual valve from the MC?

If you're asking for your 77, you have a residual valve on your firewall close to your MC. There isn't a residual valve built in your MC.

 

[hey you]

Caliwakeboarder had an issue with his new master cylinder from JT, the problem was never resolved (posted). I was curious how he resolved the brakes "tightening up".

 

[Poser]

If you're asking for your 77, you have a residual valve on your firewall close to your MC. There isn't a residual valve built in your MC.

Please post up a picture of this component that you speak of...

 

[kurtnkegger]

I was under the impression this was the residual valve...Since the MC was already proportioned for discs up front, and drums in the rear, I thought this little device kept pressure on the rear cylinders. I had the location of the placement wrong from what I remembered...

Clearly I'm wrong, as Poser has called me to task....I could use a lesson...

 

[1978freebornred]

nice thread... you take the bolts and clips out to pull the axles but what else? im to the differental stage but i have an arb air lockar and the air hose is welded to the passenger side clamp. is it just the clamps that are holding the axles in?

 

[camcruiser13]

No I think your talking about the bearing bolts and clamps. Hard to say without seeing what your doing. Post pics

 

[camcruiser13]

Might wanna find some Arab illistrated install instructions for your arb

 

[bikersmurf]

I was under the impression this was the residual valve...Since the MC was already proportioned for discs up front, and drums in the rear, I thought this little device kept pressure on the rear cylinders. I had the location of the placement wrong from what I remembered...

Clearly I'm wrong, as Poser has called me to task....I could use a lesson...

The valve under the master is the stock proportioning valve that helps prevent rear brake lockup.

 

[jeffdkid]

I am doing the disk brake conversion on my 71, Front and rear, do I remove those plastic pieces from the master cylinder for both the front and back? I know the back for sure, but the front as well?

 

[Pighead]

Yes, remove the front residual valve as well.

 

[jeffdkid]

Hi Pighead, I talked to Cam and he said not to remove the front. I apprecaite the advice, but can you confirm. I did the conversion on the front and now I am doing the back.