in depth rear disc brake conversion (10 Viewers)

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Jun 22, 2004
sittin on the couch in UT
UPDATED, plumbing starts at post #47 on page 3

Ok, i know there are a ton of write ups on this, but when i was searching for answer it seems like i had to dig through them to answer all my questions, so what im gonna do is give you a break down of every step, every part. one stop shopping here. From removal, install and plumbing.

so lets begin. vehicle is a 76 fj40

parts list:

calipers from a 85 monte carlo autozone #p4071 68.31
front not rears!!!

brackets, rotors steve aka POSER 161.00 plus shipping

wilwood proportioning valve jegs# 555-63020 34.99

dorman wheel studs, part # is 610-265 $1.99 a piece at oreilleys

as your stock ones will be short, to short for comfort for me. DORMAN 44mm long . stock is around 38mm, part # is 610-265 10 peices to a box and they are M12-1.5X44.8MM.

wilwood residual vale #2 ebay 21.95

brake hoses for calipers autozone 70770 15.99 x2

banjo bolt autozone #13940 4.99 x2 probably over paid

some brake fluid autozone 4.99

some other stuff hard brake lines etc another 20 bucks.

remember most parts are new so i paid a little more, i would budget 350-400 and youll be fine

i will be updating regularly as needed
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so first things first, read, research ask question and search some more

tools youll need:
jack stands
impact wrench
10mm 14mm wrenches
screwdrivers, hammers
nothing real special until you get to the break lines

then pull into the garage and put it up on jack stands, and start removing things.

drain the rear diff, pull the tires off.
gear oil.jpg
i know how you guys love pics so ill post as many as i took to show every step.

with the diff drained, remove the cover and take a looky.

aussie locker looks good and things are ok,

tear into the lockers and get it taken out so i can remove the inner axles.
now i take a big hammer and beat my drums a few good times to break loose the rust and junk. remove the drums and set them aside.

now i slide the inner axles out and inspect and set them aside

now undo the brake lines that run to the drums.

hit the 6 bolts inside the drum assembly with the trusty impact to make quick work of them,

now take another hammer and break the assembly loose and remove
Rear disc

Sweet! :popcorn: I'll be doing this very soon.

now what your left with is a gimpy looking rear end

hit the axle up with some wire brushes, primer and some paint while your in there

always be inspecting things while you got your rig under the knife.

my rear axle seals were replaced a year ago and they looked fine so i did not replace them.
While i had the paint out i hit up POSERS bracket and the caliper with some paint

my little princess (who someday will get the cruza) loves to se painted things
while those were drying i reinstalled the axle shafts, driver side first, put half the locker together, them did the same on the passenger side.

use grease to hold the guts together while putting the locker back in (for more on that see my locker install)
Very nice pics & words. I'm going to be doing this any day now, on my Pig. Already got the box from Poser.
But, if one did not want to pull the rear axles (like, if one had a Detroit locker in the rear and didn't know how to pull it out), could one simply cut off the old drumbrake backing plate? Do the axles NEED to come out to put it together again?
after you reassemble the rear and the axles are back in. i test fit the brackets and shizzam the fit and look good

now with posers kit you get some hardware including 4 half moon looking spacers, they go between the the brackets and the axle housing to fill the void between the two

side note i didnt tighten down anything until i knew for sure how it went and by this time its 3 am and im tires and cant think straight
so i fit the calipers on the rotors and it looks sharp.

so i put the brackets on and bolted a rotor on.

i opted to put the brake calipers toward the rear of the cruza and the calipers sit at about the 330 ish angle
now one thing to remember that the brackets are specific. if you fond you cant fit the caliper in the bracket you may need to flip it around, ask me how i know??

now i slid the calipers on the brackets and fit them onto the rotors
so with it all looking good i cinched it down and looked around made sure it was all in working order and that nothing was jacked up. i tend to jack things up. so i put the tires on to check fitment and it all looked good
now i was kinda stressing what i was going to do with the break lines but it turns out that it wasnt gonna be that bad.

i borrowed a cheapo brake line flare tool and got to work. if you havent flared your own lines before dont sweat it, not that hard.

the passenger side all i did was run a 1 inch section off the stock splitter and bam done lines out of the way and simple. see the second photo you can see the little piece i made
on the driver side just cut the brake line i had made a few years ago and cut it 2 inches past the little tab that holds down the line and flared it and hooked it up. bam that easy

a pic of both sides
Now that is the rear end, pretty much all done.

if you have thought about doing this. i say do it. way easier than i thought i was going to be, almost to the point were i am like i have to be missing something that was way to easy.

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