FJ40 Rear disc conversion E-brake solved!!

[pbgbottle]

If ya pull the driveline drum gear oil will spill out your gonna have to some mods there also.

 

[Rocky_LC]

I'm working on a similar setup on a different vehicle, but the same concept. From an article I am writing for my club...

I decided to install a set of Tesla Model S (2012 – 2020) Electric Parking Brake calipers (made by Brembo) on my car as an update. About 4-5 years ago, Tesla EPB calipers were selling for $125 a pair on eBay. These days they are significantly more expensive at about $300 for a pair of good ones. Typically, the calipers come pre-loaded with brake pads.

This is not intended to delve into the step-by-step process; it’s just a summary overview.

I machined the spacers from ½” aluminum. These position the Tesla caliper to align the EPB pads appropriately on the rotor, and provide the needed clearance for the housing to move for the caliper’s self-centering function. I needed 10 mm x 1.25 bolts in two lengths to mount the calipers to the uprights. I drilled my bolts for safety wire.

I cleaned up the caliper housings with acetone and brake fluid cleaner. The motor bodies have to be rotated 180 degrees to make connector accessible, which is a very simple change. While the motor body is removed, the internal gears are accessible for re-greasing.

I purchased two mating connectors and a long roll of two conductor wire. This was selected to provide a weathertight seal to the caliper electronics. This cost about $65.

Pictures of the calipers and my machined spacers are shown below. The next article will discuss the electronics configuration I developed as a controller.

 

[Rocky_LC]

The Tesla calipers definitely float, and need to, so that they can center up.

For a controller, I am using a pair of "One Touch" power window modules.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/314830952540

I have a "rocker switch" (DPDT "ON - OFF - ON") switch coming. The indicator will use latching relays, which maintain their state over power cycles. I'll post up a basic schematic soon.

I think I'll have less than $500 in mine when I'm through.

Rocky

Agree that there could be a situation where they could be stuck on if the car loses all power. Need to think about that.

 

[sfab]

Those calipers look substantial!! I will definitely be curious to see how that comes out.

 

[sfab]

The little reading I have done on modern electric e-brakes mostly agrees with the fact that the brakes will be stuck on (or off) in the case of a dead battery. It comes up on various OE forums (Honda, etc.). In the event one cannot get a jump start, or enough power from a portable unit to release the brakes, it could be a bit of a PIA to get them off. In the case of the Wilwood, the mounting bolts are accessible without removing the wheel. Once the slider pins come out, the pads are no longer connected to the caliper and may be possible to wiggle off. Hard sayin'.

 

[sogncab]

Neat solution.

It would be super easy to set this up as cutting brakes too

 

[Rocky_LC]

Got my calipers done, installed & checked out.

Using a direct switch control. Let me know if anyone wants to see a schematic, or wants to buy my (unused) pair of “1 touch” power window controllers. I’ll give you a good price!

Rocky

 

[sfab]

looks STOUT

 

[nabbasi]

Got my calipers done, installed & checked out.

Using a direct switch control. Let me know if anyone wants to see a schematic, or wants to buy my (unused) pair of “1 touch” power window controllers. I’ll give you a good price!

Rocky

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I’d love to see a schematic. I was looking at the pantera controller for these. Then I’d just need to figure out the bracket.

 

[avocado carl]

View attachment 3796095
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View attachment 3796101View attachment 3796103Finally got this one done! The ol' disc brake on the driveline thing was not working for me. This is a daily driver and she needs some time to warm up in winter, not to mention just being safe- a bolt down speed bump in the driveway worked for a few years on the warm up but offered no safety. I went for the Wilwood electric e-brake kit, which included both calipers, switch, controller, and harness that I purchased from Summit Racing for about $1300. I was not stoked to spend that much on this but would do it again in a heartbeat, given how it came out. The calipers came with mounting brackets that I had to change, so I drew some up on CAD and had them laser cut. They mount opposite the disc caliper and utilize the bolt pattern on the axle, hitting the top and bottom of the flange most rearward on the axle. If you're looking at the wheel from the outside of the truck, my brake caliper sits at 8-9 o'clock, and the new e-brake calipers sit at about 2-3 o'clock. Running the harness was not a big deal- there was plenty of length. I have the controller mounted to the very outboard wall in the glove box, safe from the elements, with the power coming right through from the battery on the other side of the firewall. Mounting the switch was probably the most tricky for my dash, which is wonky enough already as a result of some PO hackery. The Wilwood system does NOT use power while the brake is idle, either on or off, so no parasitic draws to worry about. It only uses power to engage or disengage. The switch has a nice LED ring around it to let you know it's engaged. The brake is rock solid!! Was parked on a steep hill with a trailer the other day and she was just sitting there, happy as can be. I like the fact that it's both wheels. I have been trying to solve this off and on for a while now, and couldn't be happier with the way it turned out. I had a few hiccups with the system- the LED ring also acts as a flashing code indicator if something is off. It was throwing a voltage code on the left caliper, so I called Wilwood and they immediately sent out a new caliper which fixed the problem. They were absolutely fantastic to deal with on all fronts. Love any customer service in this day and age, but they were next level for me!! One of the top 5 best mods I've done to date.

I apologize for any formatting awkwardness on the post. First time posting pics.

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great pictures. Thank you for sharing. I am considering the same. fj40 1971, Chev 327, T350 trans. pwr steering, brakes. My axle is heavier than the stock for this vehicle so mounting the disk brake calipers with the standard bracket just diden't work. Your bracket for the epb is clean, compliments. if you still looking for the switches for wiper and pull lights I will find my source and report back? I have the Painless wire kit, not yet installed. I am waiting on completing the body work. This seems to be a great forum, as I have found great information. Thank you to everyone on the forum btw.

 

[sfab]

great pictures. Thank you for sharing. I am considering the same. fj40 1971, Chev 327, T350 trans. pwr steering, brakes. My axle is heavier than the stock for this vehicle so mounting the disk brake calipers with the standard bracket just diden't work. Your bracket for the epb is clean, compliments. if you still looking for the switches for wiper and pull lights I will find my source and report back? I have the Painless wire kit, not yet installed. I am waiting on completing the body work. This seems to be a great forum, as I have found great information. Thank you to everyone on the forum btw.

always fun to share build stories. It's a sure-fire way to learn!! Absolutely, report back on wiper and light switches!! Would love to know. Where are you mounting your Painless fuse box? I chose poorly on mine by mounting on the engine side of the firewall, and am paying the price in the end- wires have to go into the cab and back out, so double mess through the firewall. May redo it purely to simplify. If you are comfortable with Amphenol style connectors, I highly recommend looking into multi-pin connectors that lump like things together for ease of tracking stuff. If I had it to do again, I'd do an engine bay group, rear of vehicle group and an accessory group. Sure would keep it easy to find and/or add stuff and keep the theme consistent. Wiring is new to me and like anything, you learn as you go so mistakes get made. The investment in crimping tools is worthwhile. IWISS makes decent ones for that style of crimping, which is the same as the "Deutsch" style connector. I also have loved the hydraulic crimper that harbor freight sells, to do battery and larger connectors. I have had FANTASTIC service from Pro Wire USA for Deutsch connectors and high quality TXL and Tezfal wire (https://www.prowireusa.com). Not affiliated, just a happy customer. I used the American Autowire Power Plus 13 wiring package and they also have amazing customer service. Definitely needed some help with the hazard and turn signal circuits. Cheers and happy journeys.

 

[lowenbrau]

I'm going to give this a try as well.

 

[lowenbrau]

The little reading I have done on modern electric e-brakes mostly agrees with the fact that the brakes will be stuck on (or off) in the case of a dead battery. It comes up on various OE forums (Honda, etc.). In the event one cannot get a jump start, or enough power from a portable unit to release the brakes, it could be a bit of a PIA to get them off. In the case of the Wilwood, the mounting bolts are accessible without removing the wheel. Once the slider pins come out, the pads are no longer connected to the caliper and may be possible to wiggle off. Hard sayin'.

I bench tested them using a M12 cordless tool battery and it worked fine. I think crawling under the truck to do that wouldn't be too big a hassle.