How not to build the 2F (2 Viewers)

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Yes, the CR goes up directly the same % as the increase in displacement.

So if the displacement is increased 10% on a Model T ford, the CR would go from 4.0 to 4.4 (phffft).
Increase displacement 10% on a modern engine, the CR goes from 9.5 to 10.5.
 
Sorry if I'm hijacking.....so I went from 90 to 91mm bore on my 74 f.5

Displacement was 646 cc per cylinder for a total of 3.878 L with CR 7.8:1
New displacement is 661 cc per for a total of 3.965 L

661/646=1.023= a 2.3% increase in CR
7.8 + 2.3% = new CR of 7.98:1 :eek::eek:.......:hmm:........time to go do some burn-outs I guess.



So this is still how NOT to build the 2f.........what is the point at which the CR is so high it adversely affects "performance" or longevity?

Am I right in assuming the same percentage rule will apply to the chamber? I.e if I measure the chamber with the syringe and plexi method and then remeasure after decking.....the percentage reduction in chamber is proportional to the percentage INCREASE in CR?
 
Same 2F has processed a couple of small washers? Nuts? Something was ingested, rattled around in cylinders 1,2 & 6 for a while, before it was finally spat out the exhaust. The engine ran for a few more years, but it has finally expired because the gritty cylinder walls demolished the rings and piston skirts.

damaged piston
View attachment 885039

damaged cylinder wall
View attachment 885043

Slightly OT. The engine pictured above is actually being rebuilt. But it needs 1mm or 1.5mm OS pistons. None are available. So we're going to have a set custom made. The price goes down if they make 3 or more sets. If a couple other people are interested, it can save us all some money.

Respond in this FS thread if interested.
 
bump for jim saving these old motors!
 
After the engine has been rebuilt, don't worry about changing oil. That just adds expense. If the oil is unchanged long enough, it turns to sludge that coats the internals to protect them. The same sludgy oil will act as polishing compound and wear the lobes off every cylinder & dish every lifter.

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Boy, you come across some real doozies, don't ya! Sheesh! About 15 years ago, I knew a fellow that bought a restored '40 for his teenage son, they had it for awhile and decided to change the oil in it. Not knowing anything about 2F's or Landcruisers in general, they changed the filter and dumped in 5 quarts of oil, several weeks later he told me his son threw a rod...he sold the '40 for a steal (wish I'd bought it) and said they were junk...I just shook my head.
 
If the oil squirter gets damaged (how the fu...), don't bother with an OE replacement. Just make one from random allthread and ram it into the metric pipe thread of the timing plate. A glop of Permatex #1 will seal & loctite it in place. Probably.

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I bought a '77 one time that had all the manifold studs replaced with 1/2" all thread.:meh:
 
Subscribed
 
Boy I'm glad I followed the FSM on the placement of bolt lengths in the timing cover, great thread!
 
AS with previous post, make sure you take your FJ40 with 1f or 2f to the walmart or Jiffy Quicky lube place for oil change as it's cheap but make sure you tell the guy to put in the 8+ quarts and after its ready to go, don't worry I'm sure the proper amount of oil is in and replaced all caps and the dipstick. I did this way back when my 40 had the stock motor. I drove out about a block then thought , I'm sure it's ok but I'll check, lifted the hood found the dipstick laying on the engine, stuck it in no oil on stick, promptly went back and talked to the guy..He just grunted, took my Cruiser back in the bay put the additional 3 quarts in and charged me for the oil..No apology, no whoops, just an ignorant butthead. No damage incurred thank the Lord I checked. Never again, and I haven't.
 
SUBSCRIBED... Definitely coming along for this ride!!!
 
Good info and good timing to find this thread, Just doing my engine. Subscribed.
Thanks Jim
 
So, I started to read this thread, right before I went to bed last night. Not a good idea if you've rebuilt your motor 9 months, I didn't sleep well, keep having bad dreams about oil squirters and timing gears. MAKE IT STOP.
 
If the front timing cover is leaking, R&R it but don't straighten the edge of the TC, that way it will continue to coat the engine and chassis with rust preventing motor oil.
When reinstalling the balancer and big-azz nut, don't worry about torquing it to 200+ ft/lbs. After all, the press fit will probably keep the balancer from rattling around on the snout, wearing away the press fit and tearing the keyways & key to shreds.

This crank, balancer and key are in the recycle pile now. :crybaby:

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I hope that wasn't a customer's rig!:eek:

I did some refresh work for a sandy eggo guy last year on what looked at first to be a pretty sano rig. When I pulled it back by the shop to stage it, I noticed a knocking sound I hadn't heard when it was up front. I had @YOYOKID and @Spike Strip drop by for a listen too. Customer had come in asking about a head service, but I called to tell him there could be bottom end trouble that should be checked out first.

Then I remembered something way back in the cobwebs of my brain, opened the hood, and grabbed the fan (1974) Yup, the balancer was moving. Called the customer. He says "Yeah, I noticed that when I replaced the alternator, but I didn't think it was that bad."

It's a good thing he couldn't see the expression on my face.
 
With all of these "do nots", is there a list of reputable 2F rebuilders on the forum? I will be looking into having my 2F rebuilt in the near future and want to avoid all of these FUBAR's.
 
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