How not to build the 2F (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJ40Jim
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- #42
Cant you fix that with J B Weld ?
Seriously good thread, subscribed
I am learning a whole lot of NOT TO DO's
Alan
Seriously good thread, subscribed
I am learning a whole lot of NOT TO DO's
Alan
Hey Jim you need to post up pics of the crank we just pulled from the future FJ45 motor. The one with the "circle track" oil ports...
Nick
Nick
Maybe something like this? (2nd from left)
http://www.powertoolsdirect.com/med...aithfull-mounted-stones-grinding-set-of-5.jpg
Thanks guys.
Hey Jim you need to post up pics of the crank we just pulled from the future FJ45 motor. The one with the "circle track" oil ports...
Nick
What are "circle track" oil ports?
That's why Jim needs to post a pic... We pulled apart a "freshly rebuilt" 2F with a melted rod bearing assembled by a unknown shop that "builds all the local circle track motors". One of the many things wrong was over-chamfered oil holes on the crank. Mod'ing oil holes is common in the circle track world; in this case it was one of the causes of death to this motor...pics will tell the story better.
Nick
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- #48
Here's a recently failed crank that was just rebuilt by the guy who builds all the racey car engines.
The problem is after the crank was turned down and polished, then the oil holes in the rod journals were chamfered.
Excessively.
The chamfer takes up more than 1/3 of the bearing width. And it does not have a properly softened edge. The crank shoulda been turned down to within one or two thousandths, then polished to final size. No need to enlarge or chamfer the oil hole, just let the polishing belt soften the edge of the hole.
And yes, that is the shaved off rod bearing hiding inside the hole.
The problem is after the crank was turned down and polished, then the oil holes in the rod journals were chamfered.
Excessively.
The chamfer takes up more than 1/3 of the bearing width. And it does not have a properly softened edge. The crank shoulda been turned down to within one or two thousandths, then polished to final size. No need to enlarge or chamfer the oil hole, just let the polishing belt soften the edge of the hole.
And yes, that is the shaved off rod bearing hiding inside the hole.
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- #49
The Joint Fuji used to be available from MAF, but isn't listed now.
In the US, Melling repackages these parts from Japan:
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- #50
Let's talk about front timing plate and the oil squirter.
There are 2 very common mistakes made here.
First is putting the wrong timing cover screws in the wrong holes. Depending on year, there can be up to 3 different lengths of the M6 timing cover screws. When the wrong screw is threaded into a short hole, it will run into the front of the block, and act as a jack, lifting the plate off the front of the block, bending the plate and breaking the gasket seal. Putting the right screw back in the right hole will not correct this. Removing the plate to straighten or replace is necessary.
The second (similar) mistake is over over-threading the oil squirter nozzle. The squirter is visible in the pic posted above. It should be threaded into the plate until is it just through the inside. Then it is staked to keep it from backing out. If it is threaded in as far as it will go, then the plate will be jacked off the block, oil will not get into the squirter, and oil will leak around the plate.
Pics below show:
1) the back of the plate, squirter installed at end of oil slot.
2) squirter is notably proud of the plate (no straitedge needed).
3) witness mark on front of block from squirter, visibly unsealed RTV-ed gasket to right of squirter. Oh yeah, it leaked.
There are 2 very common mistakes made here.
First is putting the wrong timing cover screws in the wrong holes. Depending on year, there can be up to 3 different lengths of the M6 timing cover screws. When the wrong screw is threaded into a short hole, it will run into the front of the block, and act as a jack, lifting the plate off the front of the block, bending the plate and breaking the gasket seal. Putting the right screw back in the right hole will not correct this. Removing the plate to straighten or replace is necessary.
The second (similar) mistake is over over-threading the oil squirter nozzle. The squirter is visible in the pic posted above. It should be threaded into the plate until is it just through the inside. Then it is staked to keep it from backing out. If it is threaded in as far as it will go, then the plate will be jacked off the block, oil will not get into the squirter, and oil will leak around the plate.
Pics below show:
1) the back of the plate, squirter installed at end of oil slot.
2) squirter is notably proud of the plate (no straitedge needed).
3) witness mark on front of block from squirter, visibly unsealed RTV-ed gasket to right of squirter. Oh yeah, it leaked.
Last edited:
Best thread ever.
myquestoyota
SILVER Star
hmmmm....
Bugger! I just put these components together and closed it up. I hope I didn't screw that squirter in too far.
Wish I would have read this two days ago.
Bugger! I just put these components together and closed it up. I hope I didn't screw that squirter in too far.
Wish I would have read this two days ago.
First I'd like to say thanks for starting this thread Jim. I know it will be invaluable when I start rebuilding my 2F in the near future (hopefully). I've never worked on anything other than a SBC so the 2F is completely foreign to me and I have another first timer question. I'm trying to visualize the front timing plate and oil squirter without ever having torn into a 2F and I can't run out and look at mine since it's thousands of miles away.
Is this the timing plate circled in blue and the squirter in red? Sorry for all the questions, I'd just rather learn from other people's mistakes instead of making them myself.
Is this the timing plate circled in blue and the squirter in red? Sorry for all the questions, I'd just rather learn from other people's mistakes instead of making them myself.
Awesome thread! Should the timing plate bolts be swapped to hex head or is re-using the slotted ones ok?
You can't swap them to a hex head bolt (although, I'm sure somebody has tried!) A lot of folks will order the newer torx screw from Toyota for easier installation and removal.
myquestoyota
SILVER Star
Those torx screws are the way to go. Like $1.63 each or something. Even my "what's an FJ40" local Toyota dealer got them for me but I had the Toyota part number.
To be clear, the pictured cam gear in post 49 is the decent one rather than the ITM? I was worried the one I had re-used from a Man-A-Fre rebuild was a crap one (assuming the cast edges on the access holes were a mark of poor quality), but the one in the pics matches my memory.
sub
Entertaining and informative
two thumbs up
Entertaining and informative two thumbs up
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AFAIK, it is the most decent one currently available in the US supply chain.
