How not to build the 2F (1 Viewer)

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Does Jim do on-site “vacation” trips?

I’m guessing a lot of these “issues” apply to 1F engines?

Are you familiar with the term “force multiplier “?
 
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Hi, There is no cheaper way than to do it right the first time, Jim ,Georg and a few others do it right . They have the skill and more importantly they have the Passion. Mike
 
Does Jim do on-site “vacation” trips? Free food and room & board included:D

I’m guessing a lot of these “issues” apply to 1F engines?
Actually, yes & yes.
In December I was on a real vaca and met up with a couple Mudders in SC to deliver a desmog, carb & dissy, as well as look over their FJ40's and discuss what to to do and why to do it.

3 days ago I was in Colorado, laying hands on a forlorn FJ40 that just wouldn't run right after a new (rebuilt) engine, new (rebuilt) manifolds, new (rebuilt x2) carb and new (good used ) dissy. It runs great now. :grinpimp:

For a $50,000 vehicle, it might be worth $3,000 to fly in an expert.:meh:
 
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Yes, in December I was on a real vaca and met up with a couple Mudders to deliver a desmog, carb & dissy, as well as look over their FJ40's and discuss what to to do and why to do it.

3 days ago I was in Colorado, laying hands on a forlorn FJ40 that just wouldn't run right after a new (rebuilt) engine, new (rebuilt) manifolds, new (rebuilt x2) carb and new (good used ) dissy. It runs great now. :grinpimp:

For a $50,000 vehicle, it might be worth $3,000 to fly in an expert.:meh:
Just curious. But if a 2f head is shaved to the maximum with stock pistons, what does it up the compression ratio to?
 
Make the trip! I spoke to Jim on the phone, waited for him to have room for my engine and spare parts, and then made the trip from Northern Illinois to Jim's shop. Couldn't be happier I did. He has been working on my project and sending me a few updates and pics of the progress. When he is ready, I am bringing my 40 to him to complete the project. Well worth the wait knowing you have one of the most honest and knowledgeable guys rebuilding your baby. My cruiser is beyond important to me and my entire family. Couldn't think of a better place for it.

Road trips are cool, go for it!

Goebs
 
Actually, yes & yes.
In December I was on a real vaca and met up with a couple Mudders in SC to deliver a desmog, carb & dissy, as well as look over their FJ40's and discuss what to to do and why to do it.

3 days ago I was in Colorado, laying hands on a forlorn FJ40 that just wouldn't run right after a new (rebuilt) engine, new (rebuilt) manifolds, new (rebuilt x2) carb and new (good used ) dissy. It runs great now. :grinpimp:

For a $50,000 vehicle, it might be worth $3,000 to fly in an expert.:meh:

Really interested to know what that one in Colorado needed. Great work Jim :clap:
 
2f with domed pistons, stock head, bored .030 over.

high enough to need 91 octane... I say leave the meat, cheap gas is the ticket. mill for flatness and get a cam.
 
@FJ40Jim What is a "normal" turn around time to rebuild either a F or a F.5 engine. My 1970 FJ40 F engine has compression numbers which are lacking consistency although it runs very well. I have a F.5 that is available for purchase and if the newer engine would be a better fit for rebuild, I assume (I hate that word) it would be a better engine and maybe easier to rebuild. Your expert opinion please.
 
Just curious. But if a 2f head is shaved to the maximum with stock pistons, what does it up the compression ratio to?
Which head & pistons? What size bore?
2f with domed pistons, stock head, bored .030 over.

Do the maths. Examples:
Shaving a late 2F head
Higher Compression

Really interested to know what that one in Colorado needed. Great work Jim :clap:
The usual items that need attention on a rebuilt 78 2F: check for correct pistons, install correct spark plugs, carb re-rebuilt correctly, jetted for altitude, flatten & seal carb insulator, correct the hatchet desmog, dissy tested, junk chicomm parts replaced (air filt, PCV, fanclutch...), break-in engine, retork head & re-adjust valves, timing set for altitude,...

@FJ40Jim What is a "normal" turn around time to rebuild either a F or a F.5 engine. My 1970 FJ40 F engine has compression numbers which are lacking consistency although it runs very well. I have a F.5 that is available for purchase and if the newer engine would be a better fit for rebuild, I assume (I hate that word) it would be a better engine and maybe easier to rebuild. Your expert opinion please.
I'm not one for opinions, sorry.
Newer is better. If possible, I'd suggest rebuilding a 2F. Dress it with the F WP, manifolds, carb, etc, if it needs to remain stock appearing.
If the smaller displacement of the F is desirable, then build the 1.5F to get the improved oiling system. Be aware that F parts, like pistons and gaskets, are becoming hard to source.
Engine rebuilds take forever for me. There's one inbound now, and one almost done on the stand, and 2 complete engines waiting to go into chassis.
Do it yourself or hire the local machinist who does all the old tractor engines, follow the advice in the 'ultimate 2F thread' and heed the warnings in this very thread.
 
@FJ40Jim Thanks! Your reputation on the forum is tops so I respect what you have to offer.
 
For over a year, the FJ40 half-lived in the corner of large garage while a steady stream
of commercial and specialty vehicles came and went with all manner of needs and hurts.

On a Friday, a little before lunch, Jim stepped into a shopful of mechanics who had never heard of him.

As the original owner of the FJ held a light over the engine bay, Jim methodically went through his steps.
For an hour, the "new" carburetor got rebuilt (this time with its parts in the correct configuration).
A flapper set upside down gets flipped over. Main and secondary throttle bodies get reversed.
A golden needle with black tip get inserted. From the bowl of the carburetor, foreign misplaced parts
get fished out. A missing spring gets restored and a leg begins to move.

With the eyes of a surgeon, Jim examines every orifice and gasket and improves what his hands can reach.
A computer comes out along with a host of parts for which the vehicle was designed to run in the heat of Africa.
Hoses, veins, flaps and levers keep the carburetor and exhaust components fooled-into-thinking
that the engine's operating environment has not changed from hot starts to cold starts and everything in between.

As the Friday workday comes to a close, the mechanics who had been tending to other patients
gather around the FJ to watch Jim bring her to life. Fuel rushes into the carb, overfilling the sight glass.
Jim bleeds away the excess and the engine roars to life with the cry of a newly born baby.
From the mechanics gathered around, I feel a glow directed towards Jim called RESPECT.
 
When storing an engine outside, don't worry about covering it. The air cleaner will do a good job of collecting rainwater and trickling it down the air cleaner stud. The water will coat the carburetor and cylinders w/ open intake valves w/ a coat of protective rust.
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I think that this was what happened to my '75 with a leaky windshield washer nozzle and the hood down.
 
Really love these old threads brought back to life--like the advertising ads, this thread is awesome. Poser--some of these threads are classic--respectfully request archiving some of them:)
 
On my first F rebuild (1989), I made one or two of those mistakes, though luckily, none ended up in disaster. Though not totally reseating the distributor caused me a tear down and rebuild, including the cost of machining and all new bearings.
 
When storing an engine long-term, consider removing the air filter element as a "habitat improvement". The mice can live in the air cleaner and use the carburetor & intake as a port-a-loo. Think of the poor critters!
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