How not to build the 2F (1 Viewer)

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Advancing the timing a little bit over stock can give a little more performance. 🏎

Advancing the timing as far as the dissy can twist, on a 2F that I rebuilt 5 years ago at 4.4L and 8.8:1 CR, will rattle the engine until it won't rattle no more. The rattling stops when the ring lands all shatter, relieving the compression. Amazingly, the bores were OK and a new set of Toyota pistons & rings got the engine back in service. Followed by a stern lecture about not fwcking with things that I have laid hands on.
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When rebuilding an engine (badly), grind off the SN to make it harder to order the correct parts for the re-rebuild.
Be sure to stamp your name on the SN pad, so the next person who has to re-rebuild it knows who to curse. :mad:

Overall, it looks & runs better now, in spite of A.J.

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To simplify engine assembly, leave out these alignment dowel sleeves around every main cap bolt. Maybe a dowel around every other bolt is good enough? It is so much easier to get the bolts started if the part doesn't have to be perfectly lined up first.

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FJ40Jim, do you ever see pre-ignition damage from glowing carbon deposits similar to excessively advanced spark timing? How were the exhaust valves on the one with the shatterd ring lands?
 
To simplify engine assembly, leave out these alignment dowel sleeves around every main cap bolt. Maybe a dowel around every other bolt is good enough? It is so much easier to get the bolts started if the part doesn't have to be perfectly lined up first.

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Why would you need dowels? After all there is a big ol' crank journal in there to help keep the bearings in line with each other and having a little float will just make it better... :hillbilly:

(for those not familiar with engines the above is sarcasm…:cheers:)
 
FJ40Jim, do you ever see pre-ignition damage from glowing carbon deposits similar to excessively advanced spark timing? How were the exhaust valves on the one with the shatterd ring lands?
No, generally speaking these engines don't have enough compression/heat to get hurt by carbon deposits. Even on engines with hosed valve guides & seals, the carbon buildup seems to have no effect other than hurting performance by reducing flow past the sludged valves.

The last 2 engines that passed through the shop with this damage were both late engines w/ closed chamber heads. Both had the dissy twisted in the full advance direction. Both had the telltale pecker marks on piston crowns and chipped off edges. One was stopped by piston failure, the other pecked through the headgasket before completely breaching a piston.
 
Jim - were all these engines spark-knocking horribly with that much advance, and were the owners deaf to this noise?
 
A rebuilt engine deserves a freshly rebuilt carb. This carb just arrived after an engine overhaul did not completely eliminate the huge stumble on acceleration.

Oh, here's the problem:
The Accel pump inlet is soldered closed and the Accel screw plug is soldered in place.
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Here's what it should look like:
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This is the rare '69 2bbl, so it has to be fixed, there's not a lot of spares out there.
Step 1, torched & unscrewed plug. Found that plug was drilled thru.
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Couldn't melt out the solder in the inlet, so Step 2, go to the outside & grind soft plug flat, then centerpunch & drill.
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Unfortunately, the tail of the brass plug spun free and went down in the passage. Nothing to do now except hit it with a hammer.
And a skinny punch.
Woot, that worked, popped the solder blob out of the inlet well and shot the brass chunk into space.
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The moral of the story is: don't solder up seemingly unnecessary holes in a Land Cruiser. Everything is there for a reason.
 
“All hearsay your honor!” :pompous: This would never happen. 😂
 
The water pump pulley on a fan clutch equipped 2F has very specific hardware. If the toothed flange nuts are replaced with toplock stover nuts, it will be very difficult to tighten them correctly. The nuts will be locked on the WP studs, but not providing the full clamping on the pulley. The pulley will start to wiggle to & fro under the FC, wobbling out the mounting holes, until eventually the studs are sheared off, resulting in a new radiator, fan blade, clutch, water pump, belt and hardware. So that's good.

Notice how the bolt holes are egged more to a point in one direction? That's because the stud is getting worn thinner.
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