Ahh did not know that. Guess I'll plan on the new glass too.
Headliner and sunroof pulled to fix leaks if anyone wants pics!
- Thread starter Surfdc
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- Thread starter
- #82
@Pascoscout Well maybe I can save you a few hundred dollars then; I water tested both the original and the new glass with new gasket and they both leaked. The same amount. I also adjusted the shims ad nauseam with no change. Therefore I concluded that it is just not a water right seal. (YMMV)
So IMO, it is more important to service the drain tubes because they can handle a lot of water, more than any storm will produce. For example when I had the glass out and had finished servicing mine, I had the wife dump a pitcher of water down each of the 4 corners, right into the tray, and it drained no problem! So now I don’t care that the sunroof leakes a little because the tray/tubes can drain it all and that cab remains bone dry!
So IMO, it is more important to service the drain tubes because they can handle a lot of water, more than any storm will produce. For example when I had the glass out and had finished servicing mine, I had the wife dump a pitcher of water down each of the 4 corners, right into the tray, and it drained no problem! So now I don’t care that the sunroof leakes a little because the tray/tubes can drain it all and that cab remains bone dry!
Thanks I think that's the best course as well. Going to pick up some tin snips tonight and hopefully it isn't too much trouble.
I've been thinking about this a lot during the week when I don't have access to the rig but one thought I had was using a wide stress-relieving loop off the nipple that then dives into the opening. It'd have a slightly downward spiral and no need to cut. I don't know how feasible that is both with flexibility of hose and how much room there is behind the sunroof once the headliner is back on.
Ha that's good to know! My next steps were going to be adding more shims to make it flush with the roof and potentially the bicycle tube trick. But if even a new gasket leaked, then it really is about making sure your drains work. I toyed with the idea of making my fronts exit through the floor rather than the invisible cavern as that might help reduce backups...might re-visit that later.
Thanks for the info!
I wanted to post some pictures of what I did, following @Surfdc 's example of using heater hose and expanding the window in the sheet metal so that the drain line slopes down.
As before, I began on the PS side since it is more accessible without the gas line and other electrical. Here's the cut I made with tin snips -
Towards the right side of the above picture you are approaching a seam where it is 2-layered and becomes harder to cut but the rest was like butter.
Here's what it looked like on the DS after connecting the hose and new hose clamp -
The drivers side C-pillar was tough to route through so I used a long (20") rigid zip tie and threaded my line into it to get my guide line into place.
I had originally planned to take off that old insulation and replace with sound deadening but am pressed for time and it seemed like a messy job as it is glued on. Also, I'm a slow researcher and don't know yet what I'd replace it with.
I'm happy with how the hoses are sitting now and hope that puts an end to any wet carpet/pillar issues in the second row.
The PS side bottom grommet was easy and I got the hose to stick out about 4" near the exhaust - I'm likely going to use some of the old tubing and route it so the water drains to the side and not right on the exhaust.
I had to give up on the DS side though. I routed the hose just fine out the bottom but I can't get the old/tight grommet to hold the wider hose and stick in the angled outlet hole...still thinking about how to fix that one. Any ideas?
Anyway, hope this helps someone and time for me to finish reattaching my headliner. I will probably skip trying to do any shims for now since I think that can be done with the headliner back on as can the bicycle inner tube fix.
I did discover that my jack is slightly rusted at the bottom so my next water-related area to figure out is the rear windows. I can't seem to pop out the rigid black trim piece that sits outside and below each rear window so I may just silicone the clips from the inside and replace window seals at a later date.
As before, I began on the PS side since it is more accessible without the gas line and other electrical. Here's the cut I made with tin snips -
Towards the right side of the above picture you are approaching a seam where it is 2-layered and becomes harder to cut but the rest was like butter.
Here's what it looked like on the DS after connecting the hose and new hose clamp -
The drivers side C-pillar was tough to route through so I used a long (20") rigid zip tie and threaded my line into it to get my guide line into place.
I had originally planned to take off that old insulation and replace with sound deadening but am pressed for time and it seemed like a messy job as it is glued on. Also, I'm a slow researcher and don't know yet what I'd replace it with.
I'm happy with how the hoses are sitting now and hope that puts an end to any wet carpet/pillar issues in the second row.
The PS side bottom grommet was easy and I got the hose to stick out about 4" near the exhaust - I'm likely going to use some of the old tubing and route it so the water drains to the side and not right on the exhaust.
I had to give up on the DS side though. I routed the hose just fine out the bottom but I can't get the old/tight grommet to hold the wider hose and stick in the angled outlet hole...still thinking about how to fix that one. Any ideas?
Anyway, hope this helps someone and time for me to finish reattaching my headliner. I will probably skip trying to do any shims for now since I think that can be done with the headliner back on as can the bicycle inner tube fix.
I did discover that my jack is slightly rusted at the bottom so my next water-related area to figure out is the rear windows. I can't seem to pop out the rigid black trim piece that sits outside and below each rear window so I may just silicone the clips from the inside and replace window seals at a later date.
So I finally wrapped this up yesterday. A tip to make the heater hose exit properly through the grommet: use Sil-glyde. I was able to get the grommet to stay in and hose to extend out. I don't like where the pass-side hose exits (right on top of rear part of exhaust) which is already rusty but it is just too hard a location to extend without pulling it back up in the cargo area. I'll do it later.
Speaking of which, I still can't get the rear window trim pieces off but I'm leaving that and the window rubber for later. I did find what looks like a water line ending in a plastic barb near the rear passenger tail light (behind the panel). Anyone know what this is?
Speaking of which, I still can't get the rear window trim pieces off but I'm leaving that and the window rubber for later. I did find what looks like a water line ending in a plastic barb near the rear passenger tail light (behind the panel). Anyone know what this is?
Those who have used Myers to “soak,” did you spray pour submerge apply with a brush or what? Thanks!
The Myers thing didn't work for me but I attribute that to the 40 degree weather when I did it. I reassembled and plan to steam clean when time allows. From what I remember reading though, one guy sprayed it on, let it soak and hosed it off. If you're too aggressive with a brush, you will ruin the nap.
- Thread starter
- #88
Picked up a new (used) sunroof assembly as I will be replacing mine, which means headliner will come down, again. So more pics to add to this thread as reference when this job is underway.
Also if any of you want pics of anything just let me know.
Andy
Also if any of you want pics of anything just let me know.
Andy
- Thread starter
- #90
Correct. I bought new glass to get a new gasket that comes with it. Unfortunately they are permanently mated, so no way to get just the gasket. My hope was that the new gasket would seal better and not leak. It made no difference.
There are two plastic clips (one on each side) that attach the pulley to the slider. They both broke and the sunroof will not slide. This plastic part is not replaceable. So I’m just gonna swap the whole assembly, keeping my new glass!
Ah gotcha. Sucks to hear the leak is still persistent but at least you'll have a working sunroof again! Where is it coming in from?
I've been having some wet seatbelts recently and I think after all the work (windshield caulk, replacing drain tubes, cleaning drainage holes) that water might be getting in from the weatherstripping, door, or original roof rack mounts somehow.
Pics of the broken clips? The new used sunroof is just as old, did you try to come up with a fix for the broken clips?
- Thread starter
- #93
Water is still coming thru the glass. I have shimmed it all ways and concluded that it just leaks. But that’s ok because it’s not a lot, and the drain tubes clear it no problem.
If your seatbelts are wet it is no doubt the rear drain tubes. Check to see they have not come unclipped at the nipple or that the drain hoses are linked. I bet it’s one of those.
- Thread starter
- #94
I will have pics up of the broken clips when I can start disassembly. Gonna rain. And it’s Christmas. So prolly in a little while yet.
Once I start the swap I’ll see if there is a way to fix or modify the clips, and post it here.
- Thread starter
- #95
I'm reviving this thread because I have to drop the headliner again because my sunroof broke and now leaks!
after much searching and tinkering with a used sunroof unit, I have decided to repair mine. Not gonna tape, or caulk, or weld it up because I like having a sunroof dammit!
I bought new OEM rails and they have all the new bits that were worn and broken! going to swap these in over the next few days following this thread.
forum.ih8mud.com
Soooo if anyone needs any pics of the process let me know and I’ll take pics for ya.
after much searching and tinkering with a used sunroof unit, I have decided to repair mine. Not gonna tape, or caulk, or weld it up because I like having a sunroof dammit!
I bought new OEM rails and they have all the new bits that were worn and broken! going to swap these in over the next few days following this thread.
How To: Sun Roof Repair
forum.ih8mud.com
How much time would you guess for rebuilding the sunroof? (Not including the headliner in/out)
Did you also get new plastic corners and hoses and clamps?
Did you also get new plastic corners and hoses and clamps?
