Headliner and sunroof pulled to fix leaks if anyone wants pics!
- Thread starter Surfdc
- Start date
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RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
No thank you, this was above and BEYOND Ive recently discovered a wet passenger floor rug and automatically thought rear hear BUT Im not losing any anti freeze SOooooooooooo
RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
to check does the headliner HAVE to come down or just pillar trim
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2017
- Threads
- 5
- Messages
- 82
- Location
- Dunwoody, Georgia
- Website
- www.thermalrecovery.com
Can you remove/adjust the sunroof without dropping it ? is there a thread on the sunroof adjustment, while in place? Sorry, new member here.
And who is the go-to person for replacement glass? (Dec 2017)
And who is the go-to person for replacement glass? (Dec 2017)
Last edited:
Hello... How thick was the Dynaliner that you used?
My sunroof does not open,.. when I try it moves a little and makes noise. Like the motor is weak and rails might be broke.. or something. I think the only way to fix is to remove the sunroof completely. While doing that I wanted to clean the headliner.
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for that measurement. Do I remember correctly that you used about 6' of 5/8" heater hose for each rear drain? How hard was it to snake into location, especially getting out the bottom? Did you use the same clamp?
I tried spraying my trim pieces with Shout and scrubbing...no luck. May use your Meyers and hose method although it's about 40 degrees out.
- Thread starter
- #70
Dynamat 0.067” and dynaliner 1/4”.
Does your sunroof not tilt or slide?
- Thread starter
- #71
Yes. Gates 5/8 Heater hose. Snaking hose is no factor until it enters the roof just off the sunroof nipple. Have to trim the hole bigger then line with door trim. Otherwise from there is it cake. Even fits nicely out of grommet at exit point in floor. Used new hose clamps.
- Thread starter
- #72
Yes. Soak with Meyers let sit for 10 min. Then rinse with hose.
Thanks and nice didn't realize you trimmed the hole a bit. That's not really in my arsenal at the moment so will see what I can accomplish without that! Unfortunately I forgot hose clamps so I can't finish it off today and put headliner back on
but thank goodness for zip ties. O'reilly also shorted me on the hose so I'm about 6" short on one side, will probably jam the existing tubing into the end where it exits. I saw that the rubber exit grommet could be stretched to fit but the 5/8" heater hose also almost fits the entire exit hole anyway. I was really hoping to avoid removing the cargo area trim but doing so confirmed to me I have a small rear window leak as well. Oh well, the adventure continues!I plan to start at the top see how much I can jam into there, maybe use a guidewire if I need to...
For others, it also looks like 5/8" inner diameter vinyl tubing would also work nicely. I mistakenly bought 1/2" but with the thinner walls it might be easier to work than heater hose and still resists flattening out on the turns.
Let me know if anyone needs any photos.
- Thread starter
- #74
Ya. Totally you can use almost any hose that fits on the nipple. Vinyl tubing is a good idea. I just used the heater hose because I had a bunch lying around left over from other jobs. But ya it is thick! You wouldn’t have to trim anything with a thinner hose. What I do like about the fact that I trimmed the opening is that before I trimmed it it actually came off the nipple down then slightly up hill to enter that hole! Probably not a big deal but my driveway is sloped so I trimmed just the bottom of the hole with Tin snips to fit the heater hose and now it only runs downhill.Thanks and nice didn't realize you trimmed the hole a bit. That's not really in my arsenal at the moment so will see what I can accomplish without that! Unfortunately I forgot hose clamps so I can't finish it off today and put headliner back on
I plan to start at the top see how much I can jam into there, maybe use a guidewire if I need to...
For others, it also looks like 5/8" inner diameter vinyl tubing would also work nicely. I mistakenly bought 1/2" but with the thinner walls it might be easier to work than heater hose and still resists flattening out on the turns.
Let me know if anyone needs any photos.
You have to remove the cargo area trim. Piece of cake and make the job super quick.
You're totally right about the hose having to go uphill and back down to enter the hole - definitely weird. My drive is also sloped - good point! I may be able to borrow some tin snips to trim it unless I find vinyl hose and it looks alright but like the idea.
Ran out of time today after doing the "firetruck mod" but will be back at it in a week with hose clamps this time. May also use the hiatus to find sunroof shims to force it more flush with the roof.
Ran out of time today after doing the "firetruck mod" but will be back at it in a week with hose clamps this time. May also use the hiatus to find sunroof shims to force it more flush with the roof.
So I got back to this today, working on the two rear drain hoses. I was nervous about pulling them out because I wasn't sure I'd be able to route the new tubing back the same way - quite the tortuous path - and wasn't even sure which tubing to use. Still, I could feel the flattening of the hose as it dropped into the C pillar so pulled out the passenger side:
I had some 5/8" heater hose so figured I'd try it as @Surfdc did. It was really tough to route from top-bottom or bottom-top until I decided to go first with some trimmer line to help. Still, it was a pain to figure out which opening to go up from.
At this point I was getting excited because I could now pull the heater hose out up at the top...but that's where I got stuck. It was simply too thick and the 's' path to get from the rectangle-shaped window up to the drain nipple was too sharp. The plastic nipple itself was also brittle and I could break off the tip with a fingernail (but also about 40F outside).
I tried using an insert of the old hose (which also has an ID of 5/8" but much thinner walled) but while it could attach to the drain, the turn collapses it which is what I'm trying to solve in the first place.
So, any ideas? As you can see in the picture below, the yellow is the existing path I'm trying to follow. In the medical device world, there are some very thin-walled tubes that are super puncture resistant and would work great here...I even considered doing a large spiral loop with some tubing to decrease the sharpness of the turn but don't know how much room there is behind the headliner for that.
Or am I stuck having to widen that opening (green line) so I can follow the red-line path? And if so, would tin snips cut it? Besides filing/smoothing the cut, should I coat it in anything? I'd like to avoid cutting if I have to but also need to put all this back together so appreciate any suggestions.
Couple more pictures to help anyone doing this in the future:
Watch out for that clip when removing:
Rubber grommet down there that the hose exits through:
I had some 5/8" heater hose so figured I'd try it as @Surfdc did. It was really tough to route from top-bottom or bottom-top until I decided to go first with some trimmer line to help. Still, it was a pain to figure out which opening to go up from.
At this point I was getting excited because I could now pull the heater hose out up at the top...but that's where I got stuck. It was simply too thick and the 's' path to get from the rectangle-shaped window up to the drain nipple was too sharp. The plastic nipple itself was also brittle and I could break off the tip with a fingernail (but also about 40F outside).
I tried using an insert of the old hose (which also has an ID of 5/8" but much thinner walled) but while it could attach to the drain, the turn collapses it which is what I'm trying to solve in the first place.
So, any ideas? As you can see in the picture below, the yellow is the existing path I'm trying to follow. In the medical device world, there are some very thin-walled tubes that are super puncture resistant and would work great here...I even considered doing a large spiral loop with some tubing to decrease the sharpness of the turn but don't know how much room there is behind the headliner for that.
Or am I stuck having to widen that opening (green line) so I can follow the red-line path? And if so, would tin snips cut it? Besides filing/smoothing the cut, should I coat it in anything? I'd like to avoid cutting if I have to but also need to put all this back together so appreciate any suggestions.
Couple more pictures to help anyone doing this in the future:
Watch out for that clip when removing:
- Thread starter
- #77
Your almost there!So I got back to this today, working on the two rear drain hoses. I was nervous about pulling them out because I wasn't sure I'd be able to route the new tubing back the same way - quite the tortuous path - and wasn't even sure which tubing to use. Still, I could feel the flattening of the hose as it dropped into the C pillar so pulled out the passenger side:
I had some 5/8" heater hose so figured I'd try it as @Surfdc did. It was really tough to route from top-bottom or bottom-top until I decided to go first with some trimmer line to help. Still, it was a pain to figure out which opening to go up from.
At this point I was getting excited because I could now pull the heater hose out up at the top...but that's where I got stuck. It was simply too thick and the 's' path to get from the rectangle-shaped window up to the drain nipple was too sharp. The plastic nipple itself was also brittle and I could break off the tip with a fingernail (but also about 40F outside).
I tried using an insert of the old hose (which also has an ID of 5/8" but much thinner walled) but while it could attach to the drain, the turn collapses it which is what I'm trying to solve in the first place.
So, any ideas? As you can see in the picture below, the yellow is the existing path I'm trying to follow. In the medical device world, there are some very thin-walled tubes that are super puncture resistant and would work great here...I even considered doing a large spiral loop with some tubing to decrease the sharpness of the turn but don't know how much room there is behind the headliner for that.
Or am I stuck having to widen that opening (green line) so I can follow the red-line path? And if so, would tin snips cut it? Besides filing/smoothing the cut, should I coat it in anything? I'd like to avoid cutting if I have to but also need to put all this back together so appreciate any suggestions.
Couple more pictures to help anyone doing this in the future:
Watch out for that clip when removing:
Rubber grommet down there that the hose exits through:
Yes, I would definitely cut where you have the green line. That is what I did. Then I lined the cut area with some door trim I had lying around. This cut is vital because it allows the thicker hose to pass through AND it relieves the stupid uphill “S” curve.
Also, heater hose seems to have a natural curve to it, so if you can rotate (or spin) the length, it may end up pointing up at the nipple. Hope that makes sense.
A nice rust spot developed on my 80 where that drain hose fell out of the original hole and filled up the body panel below it.
I know this was a while ago but why did you replace the glass? I am looking at putting new seals on my sunroof soon and am assembling a list of needed parts and things to do when I have it out. On mine the glass seems fine other than water spots. I've had good luck using Bar Keepers Friend to remove those from glass so that's my plan here when it's out unless there is a bigger reason I should replace.
- Thread starter
- #80
My thought was that a new gasket would seal better to the roof then the 20 yr original. And you can’t get the gasket separate, it comes with new glass as a complete assembly.
