I have the factory lockers. They work fine when engaged but they can be slow to do so and slow to unlock. In my opinion they are not worth the extra money most people want for a rig with them. I plan to go eatons on the other truck I am building now.
Makita all the way. I've done fabrication at a professional and hobbyist level for over 20 years and have had one grinder that entire time, which is my Makita 5". I've tried a few others along the way but the Makita just works, it feels right in...
I have the FMS one. Apparently there are even cheaper versions of varying quality. I can say the FMS one is pretty well built and capable. The weight and balance are a little off (it likes to roll on its side) but I think some wheel weights will...
There happen to be varying "degrees" of temperature that the VHT paints can withstand. They started out as a high temp paint brand but have since expanded their line, they actually make paints that are not rated for high temp too. Since I have no...
The VHT Roll bar and Chasis paint has a really nice finish. Looks like satin black powder coat. I use it all the time on my UTV. Not sure how well it would deal with heat though.
Buy a black VHT paint from auto parts store, wire brush and clean the hub with brake cleaner before paint.
The drum is what needs the VHT. Otherwise you can use an epoxy primer and black top coat. You can do it all with epoxy primer and black...
I painted mine black with rustoleum. I like the look but I do have to repaint every couple of years. POR15 would also work but you would need the UV inhibiting top coat, the paint itself won't hold up well in the sunlight.
Define local….. There are a number of us in WA and including a few free members on the east side of the volcanos. Let’s put together a plan to run the WABDR.
Good find!
I don't personally have these but they do look like decent bumpers: Northwest Trail Innovations - https://nwtrailinnovations.com/
Best of both worlds, its a precut, weld together yourself kit. Allows you to add some custom touches...
The RC is really cool with Working steering components, suspension, drive shafts, metal frame. There is a licensed Toyota version and unlicensed which are different colors and a bit cheaper...
Friend gave me the grey one as a gift, I picked up the mud studs one last week.
There's also a pretty nice 1/18th scale RC version. I picked one up a few months ago, actually crawls pretty well...
Mine used to do as you describe, would just click but if I turned the key a handful of times it would eventually turn over and fire up. Didn't do it every time, but it got more frequent over time. It was the starter for me. I tried replacing the...
I used mostly readily available flat stock to keep cutting to a minimum and help with keeping lines straight.
Also, as far as removing the cross member goes. In my opinion you don't gain much by removing it unless you aren't running a swing-out...
Also if you haven't read it this thread has great information on rebuilding and reinstalling the rear actuator.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/locker-actuator-rebuild.551069/page-2
Have you tested for 12v at the plug just before the locker? It's short duration (i.e. voltage is only present briefly) when it locks/unlocks so it helps to have someone turn the switch while you verify 12v. Attached is a test sequence in the FSM...
Herre's what I did. Used the spindle mount from Ruffstuff.
More details in the thread linked in my signature or here Custom Rear Plate Bumper - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/custom-rear-plate-bumper.873429/
I built it one way the first time...
Rear main or upper oil pan arch seal. They are right next to each other. You can inspect both through the access cover on the transmission.
Either one is going to be an involved job. Rear main requires removal of the transmission. Upper pan arch...
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