For those with torsion bar questions (14 Viewers)

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I know how to lower and raise the torsion bars i dont know what direction i need to turn the actual bars for reindexing.

Turns out my passenger side did not need re-indexing but I did it anyway and I ended up turning the bar counter clockwise but then changed it to clockwise for passenger side if I’m looking from back of bar toward the front of bar (not sure that was right but have plenty of thread left). For the driver side I initially turned the bar counter clockwise but then decided to do clockwise.... I believe that was wrong and I was right the first time as I am now again out of thread on the driver side.... in concluding I believe that my passenger side probably is re-indexed by turning the bar clockwise and the driver side is re-indexed by going counter clockwise.

If it’s wrong then I don’t know what to say except good luck and I’d be glad to help and have a cold one while we do it if near east Texas ever.
 
So I re-indexed my driver side TB today. I also turned mine clockwise to get more threads/ adjustment Per the instructions you drop the Bolt Side of the Adjuster and raise the left side up to the frame rail. Would this not always rotate the bar clockwise on the drivers side? I’m imagining a circle (end of TB toward rear) and if I could lower the right side and raise the left side it would rotate clockwise. Am I missing something? I turned it clockwise and now have much more adjustment. My indexing mark on the TB is above the Indexing Mark on the front Torque Bracket.
Also, I’ve adjusted the TB to get me to 20” twice and both times after a mile or two of driving it’s settled back down 1/2”- 3/4”. If an alignment sets it back up how do I know where I’m really at without getting it done then haveing to adjust again and get another alignment?

Sorry for the questions. I believe I’m making myself confused. I spent about 2 hours laying on my creeper under the Vehicle trying to understand.
 
So I re-indexed my driver side TB today. I also turned mine clockwise to get more threads/ adjustment Per the instructions you drop the Bolt Side of the Adjuster and raise the left side up to the frame rail. Would this not always rotate the bar clockwise on the drivers side? I’m imagining a circle (end of TB toward rear) and if I could lower the right side and raise the left side it would rotate clockwise. Am I missing something? I turned it clockwise and now have much more adjustment. My indexing mark on the TB is above the Indexing Mark on the front Torque Bracket.
Also, I’ve adjusted the TB to get me to 20” twice and both times after a mile or two of driving it’s settled back down 1/2”- 3/4”. If an alignment sets it back up how do I know where I’m really at without getting it done then haveing to adjust again and get another alignment?

Sorry for the questions. I believe I’m making myself confused. I spent about 2 hours laying on my creeper under the Vehicle trying to understand.

Good question because mine always settles back 1/2 an inch so now again my back end sits at 19 1/8 roughly and front still sits at 18 1/2-18 3/4 ..... I still have thread left to move fronts up to 19 1/8 but I’m not sure that they will stay. I feel they might go back down which if that happens I’ve heard the threads might be worn on the jbe Ben front where it goes into housing or they are worn out and you need new tbs and not necessarily stronger ones but maybe just new factory ones if you aren’t running a lot of weight and if cost effective. Someone feel free to correct me if wrong.
 
This subject confuses the heck out of me so I put this graphic together to help me visualize the concept.
Would welcome feedback and comments and, above all, confirmation that this is correct or not.

View attachment 1496422
Excellent picture! I continue to read more about torsion bars and it may be that the more I read, the more confusing it seems. I'm unsure if the marks are anything other than a recommended starting point. The OME bars come with a mark on each end of the bar too, but those don't seem to line up to anything important either.

Making changes to the torsion bar require that you lift the vehicle. My install was done with jackstands under the frame rail. Should further changes to the torsion bars be made with jackstand under frame rail, or is it ok to just lift vehicle from the front until wheels are off the ground?
 
Excellent picture! I continue to read more about torsion bars and it may be that the more I read, the more confusing it seems. I'm unsure if the marks are anything other than a recommended starting point. The OME bars come with a mark on each end of the bar too, but those don't seem to line up to anything important either.

Making changes to the torsion bar require that you lift the vehicle. My install was done with jackstands under the frame rail. Should further changes to the torsion bars be made with jackstand under frame rail, or is it ok to just lift vehicle from the front until wheels are off the ground?

It doesn’t really make a difference. As long as the wheel on the side you are working on comes all the way off the ground when you adjust. You will need to drive the vehicle (just up and down the driveway) to get an accurate measurement of height regardless.

I just put my jack under my arb and lift up both wheels at once. Sees to be the easiest way for me.

ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS WHEN WORKING UNDER THE VEHICLE, however. To adjust you have to go under, just place some jack stands to be safe, in case your jack were to fail. Even with wheels still attached the safest thing is to use jack stands, since y I could still easily be crushed with the compression of the suspension.
 
Don’t forget once you have it dialed in to get an alignment.


Excellent picture! I continue to read more about torsion bars and it may be that the more I read, the more confusing it seems. I'm unsure if the marks are anything other than a recommended starting point. The OME bars come with a mark on each end of the bar too, but those don't seem to line up to anything important either.

Making changes to the torsion bar require that you lift the vehicle. My install was done with jackstands under the frame rail. Should further changes to the torsion bars be made with jackstand under frame rail, or is it ok to just lift vehicle from the front until wheels are off the ground?
 
Having trouble with adjustment of mine for AHC won't move with a ring spanner sprayed them to with lubricant.
 
I am wondering if adjusting my bars is something worth doing. I have stock suspension and ride height, but recently added an ARB front bumper ( no winch )
> I am measuring 19ish inches from hub to fender up front.

Is it worth messing with? Ride quality feels fine but she definitely has some extra lbs up front.
 
I am wondering if adjusting my bars is something worth doing. I have stock suspension and ride height, but recently added an ARB front bumper ( no winch )
> I am measuring 19ish inches from hub to fender up front.

Is it worth messing with? Ride quality feels fine but she definitely has some extra lbs up front.

It is worth doing, you risk your suspension not going into or staying in high mode due to imbalanced ACH pressures if you don't. HTH
 
No AHC, but was kind of hoping to hear that it's not worth doing. I'm sitting at 19.5 inches in front with the weight of ARB bumper and new OEM shocks . Think I'll just ride it out unless it sags more

It is worth doing, you risk your suspension not going into or staying in high mode due to imbalanced ACH pressures if you don't. HTH
 
So unless I missed it in this thread, how do you compensate for the height adjustment after an alignment? This was asked a few times in the thread , but i didn’t see an answer. Thanks
 
I'm thinking about cranking my torsion bars to level the cruiser for a bit while i'm gathering the funds for new suspension. What is the advisable/ max lift for stock torsion bars? Or would holding off be the best bet until I can get OME torsion bars? Right now im at 19" from center hub to fender up front and 21.5" in the rear yielding that rake everyone talks about.

Any feedback would be appreciated.
 
IMO, you can re-index or crank your stock bars all you want. Your ride will stiffen when you crank them but as they age they lose some spring return and soften. I do not think I have ever heard of anyone breaking one from adjusting it. I cranked up a sagging Nissan Hardbody with an ARB and a winch haning off the front to even it out and had no issues. (It actually improved the ride.) Are your wheeling hard?
 
To better support my Dissent bumper and winch, I u
"upgraded" torsion bars to a set of used LC100 that were take offs for another mudders lifted 100. It worked pretty well. Sitting somewhere near the middle of the torsion range to get good AHC values. Good ride. When I swap out the steel for synthetic cable, I expect to be able to adjust down the tension again to get the right settings.
 
Gentlemen......Quick question on the 30mm tensioner bolt. On the driver's LH side looking up at the bolt it turns clockwise to raise the vehicle. On the Passenger RH side is it also clockwise or is it counter clockwise? I'm currently in standby mode on the passenger side as when I jacked it up the front shock failed on extension and blew fluid all over the floor. I'm going to replace the shock before continuing with passenger side adjustment.
 
I cranked torsion bars because it was lower on the driver side. Vehicle did level but a few days later it got lower than where it was before. Wheels were tilted inside too noticeably. Any suggestions? ( haven’t done wheel alignment yet, wanted to make sure torsion bars sit properly)
 
is it necessary to loosen other bolts on the LCA when adjusting the TBs? would cranking them create any "bind" in the other bushings that need to be tightened back on the ground? just a thought since i'm trying to get more lift than 21.5 fender to hub
 

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