PSA: replace those heater tees

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Super77

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 24, 2012
Threads
156
Messages
1,040
Location
Seattle
Been said a thousand times here, just sharing that I recently got religion too.

IMG_8470.jpeg

IMG_8471.jpeg

26 years old, ~142k miles. Looked “normal” upon initial inspection, no leaks. Snapped like a stale Triscuit as soon as I started twisting the hose a little. Not a gradual fail that you’d see or smell, but a sudden gusher if it had been pressurized. You can’t really visualize how the plastic is failing until you remove the hose and see the brown splotches.

Also:

1) it’s a one :banana:job if you invest a few bucks in one of these

IMG_8472.jpeg

Seriously, it makes working with 6 spring clamps in a tight space an actual pleasure and leaves them looking like new.

2) Don’t buy the aftermarket tees. Just. Don’t. They’re all garbage. And using brass tees from Home Depot or whatever is a dead end. The perpendicular tube is smaller than the other two, and does not match US plumbing fittings.

OEM tees are engineered for a hot environment, vibrating, constantly soaked in coolant. It’s worth the ~$25 for a pair from Uncle T.
 
One of the first thing I replaced when I bought my truck back in 2017 with only 46,000 miles. They literally disintegrated when removed and were brown in color. I changed them again a few months ago.
 
Been said a thousand times here, just sharing that I recently got religion too.

View attachment 3940813
View attachment 3940814
26 years old, ~142k miles. Looked “normal” upon initial inspection, no leaks. Snapped like a stale Triscuit as soon as I started twisting the hose a little. Not a gradual fail that you’d see or smell, but a sudden gusher if it had been pressurized. You can’t really visualize how the plastic is failing until you remove the hose and see the brown splotches.

Also:

1) it’s a one :banana:job if you invest a few bucks in one of these

View attachment 3940815
Seriously, it makes working with 6 spring clamps in a tight space an actual pleasure and leaves them looking like new.

2) Don’t buy the aftermarket tees. Just. Don’t. They’re all garbage. And using brass tees from Home Depot or whatever is a dead end. The perpendicular tube is smaller than the other two, and does not match US plumbing fittings.

OEM tees are engineered for a hot environment, vibrating, constantly soaked in coolant. It’s worth the ~$25 for a pair from Uncle T.
I bought this from amazon two weeks ago because its easier to buy a tool this cheap then to lose my mind.
 
I bought this from amazon two weeks ago because its easier to buy a tool this cheap then to lose my mind.
I’ve probably got a dozen constant-tension clamps hidden in the dark corners of my garage, from when they sproinged off the lineman’s pliers I used for years to wrestle them on and off.
 
Just bypass the heater t’s completely! I have never used the rear heat in over 13 years lve owned the 100. Cruiser Patch has the hoses.
IMG_0734.webp
 
Just bypass the heater t’s completely! I have never used the rear heat in over 13 years lve owned the 100. Cruiser Patch has the hoses.
View attachment 3947866
That’s pretty elegant. I think you can get the same result by replacing the tees with straight connectors. In that case, I think you actually can use the barbed brass fitting from a hardware store, since IIRC it’s the 3rd, smaller tube that requires the tee made by Uncle T.
 
I saw somewhere a claim there were 3 heater tees. Is that possible/true? Replaced mine (2) with hoses when I bought my LC but certainly don’t remember a third.
 
I was wondering if people would like a reliable aftermarket solution made out of machined aluminum? Would look sick and get the job done.
 
The OE ones get the job reliably for ~$14 and last a decade or two. What would machined ones offer?
 
The OE ones get the job reliably for ~$14 and last a decade or two. What would machined ones offer?
I’m confused why these brass tee seldom got mentioned? I brought a pair thinking these got to be more robust than the plastic one also OEM for older models. Am I correct as I plan to put these in next timing belt change with the old plastic tee at 8 years old. What are the negatives on these brass tee? Thoughts anyone?


IMG_3033.webp


IMG_3034.webp
 
There's a long discussion in one of the other threads about possible dissimilar metals concerns vs. the plastic T. But, pretty sure there's already brass and aluminum in the system, so I don't know that it's that much of a reason.
 
I’m confused why these brass tee seldom got mentioned? I brought a pair thinking these got to be more robust than the plastic one also OEM for older models. Am I correct as I plan to put these in next timing belt change with the old plastic tee at 8 years old. What are the negatives on these brass tee? Thoughts anyone?


View attachment 4057399

View attachment 4057403
Those are the ones I put in my LX this summer when I baselined it.
Kinda OT but you can "delete" the rear heater also. So instead of a T its just straight. (If you have no use for the rear heat.)
Got them of @cruiserpatch site also.
 
Back
Top Bottom