or a "hard unveiling" 
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bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Soff one lime a Wet Noodle 
RUSH55
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #3,304
Here’s a link to the product -
I added this stuff to the paint on the inside of the roof, to the SEM truck bed liner that I applied to the underside of the tub, and then now to the primer and paint on the floorpan.
Some extra reducer helps it flow pretty good. The pressure pot gun I used to apply it has a 1.7m tip, so no problem spraying it.
I added about 5oz. (by volume) to about 30oz of mixed paint.
Since it was all getting painted anyways and this stuff is relatively inexpensive, figured there would be very little to lose by giving it a try.
Thermacels Insulating Additives | Hytech Thermal Solutions
hytechsales.com
I added this stuff to the paint on the inside of the roof, to the SEM truck bed liner that I applied to the underside of the tub, and then now to the primer and paint on the floorpan.
Some extra reducer helps it flow pretty good. The pressure pot gun I used to apply it has a 1.7m tip, so no problem spraying it.
I added about 5oz. (by volume) to about 30oz of mixed paint.
Since it was all getting painted anyways and this stuff is relatively inexpensive, figured there would be very little to lose by giving it a try.
@RUSH55 Are you spraying with any heat and sound proofing like Lizard Skin? I did that after Nolen Grogan’s thread and it has been great. I did it on roof, entire floor front to back, inside firewall, underside of hood, and inside all doors and tailgate. For good measure I also put Dynamat in the underside of the roof.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #3,306
The microspheres are supposed act like a heat barrier, so no Lizard Skin. The inside of the roof has Eastwood XMat and Dynamat. The inner firewall will have the thinner Eastwood XMat. I’m still undecided on if I’m doing a floor mat. If I do, McMaster sells a diamond tread mat with an insulated backing that I’m considering.
i would hazzerd a guess,,,, no scratch that, i'd wager lunch that Lizard Skin uses Thermacells in there product.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I wonder if the pressure pot just needs to hit a minimum pressure before it will start to flow and then you can dial back once it is flowing?
You would probably need a few extra hands to keep the gun flowing while dialing back on the regulator to get the ideal pressure.
And you would probably flow through some product...
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
No way, you met the legends @Pigeaten and Steve in person?!? Sweet!!!Got a visit today from Don - @Pigeaten
Thanks for stopping by Don! Steve did a nice job with Steve
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PabloCruise
SILVER Star
What? Are we changing from Rush song names to songs by ABBA?
Is Dancing Queen next???
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Better than Bob's dog's balls!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Soft-core launch...
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Throw us a link when you get there!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Couldn't resist!
RUSH55
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #3,317
More paint fail.
This started out as a couple of small cracks and ended up being a large section of primer and paint that didn’t adhere in the hardest to access area that I’ve already dealt with.
I’m not really interested in removing the cowl again, and since it’s glued on, I don’t think it will come off without being totally destroyed. So the idea now is to remove this section of metal (outlined in sharpie) and leave it out, clean, primer, paint, again.
Anyone think that this area of metal has any structural value and will compromise any structural integrity? If not, I’m not going to worry about trying to reinstall it. If it is or has the potential to be, I will look to rivet the piece back in place.
This started out as a couple of small cracks and ended up being a large section of primer and paint that didn’t adhere in the hardest to access area that I’ve already dealt with.
I’m not really interested in removing the cowl again, and since it’s glued on, I don’t think it will come off without being totally destroyed. So the idea now is to remove this section of metal (outlined in sharpie) and leave it out, clean, primer, paint, again.
Anyone think that this area of metal has any structural value and will compromise any structural integrity? If not, I’m not going to worry about trying to reinstall it. If it is or has the potential to be, I will look to rivet the piece back in place.
Let's talk about this some more. Isn't that where the wiper arm comes through? Doesn't a nut get screwed on the wiper arm shaft to hold it there? I have to take a look at mine.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
What is the concern? The 1st pic with the area grinded? There is zero structural integrity in that area that i can see! I know you spent a 
load of work on this 
and I'm not saying that you should or should'nt, but whats the end goal?? Show or Hardcore driver ??? Not saying to compromise on your goals!! Just saying don't ( another word i'm going stop using guess why?) Drive yourself Nuts over something that only you will know. Your is a Top notch high end build that anyone would be proud to own. So is that worth the Stress 
.
load of work on this and I'm not saying that you should or should'nt, but whats the end goal?? Show or Hardcore driver ??? Not saying to compromise on your goals!! Just saying don't ( another word i'm going stop using guess why?) Drive yourself Nuts over something that only you will know. Your is a Top notch high end build that anyone would be proud to own. So is that worth the Stress .
RUSH55
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #3,320
So on the passenger side, there’s the provision for the wiper arm to come through - on a right hand drive. On the US models, the wiper arm comes through on the far left and the center. I didn’t actually realize that the provision was there until today. I mean, I’ve been looking at it for 5 years, and it only just now registered.
