FJ60 (FLYBOX) -> 2F -> 13Bt -> 15BFT

[ofer bruhis]

The part numbers are helpful, how much did all the extra parts cost from Japan4x4?

I will be following closely as the 15B-FTE I was thinking about buying would be a huge pain to convert to mechanical injection. Better off starting with an FT. Are all of the engines AlbertoSD has inline pumps like yours or any rotary? His engines are pricey but at least an option.

$500 from Japan4x4 for the bottom end and probably another around $500 for the back side (flywheel, etc). Then there is starter, alternator and AC.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

The part numbers are helpful, how much did all the extra parts cost from Japan4x4?

I will be following closely as the 15B-FTE I was thinking about buying would be a huge pain to convert to mechanical injection. Better off starting with an FT. Are all of the engines AlbertoSD has inline pumps like yours or any rotary? His engines are pricey but at least an option.

I think fitting an FTE into a BJ would be a wiring nightmare and is not really in keeping with the spirit of the vehicle. I know of one person who has done it, but others have given up and most don't attempt in the first place. An -FT is the pinnacle of a pre-EFI diesel engines. Not cheap though, and the OPs engine looks to have had a pretty rough journey from Japan, though that is probably unavoidable if you are buying in the US.

@myusername has compiled a comprehensive list of considerations put a 15B into a BJ, it's post #17 in this thread, in case you have not seen it: For Sale - [TX] Toyota 15B-FT Engines - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tx-toyota-15b-ft-engines.1315032/#post-15096029

A major decision is on the accessories - are you keeping it 24V or converting to 12V? Single belt or double belt? Keeping the fan clutch or going to direct-drive? All these options are possible but you are likely to need to buy a crank pulley, water pump, fan, AC compressor clutch or alternator to make a full set.

If you want the install to look 'factory' as much as possible, then it gets more complicated (and expensive) trying to source very scarce parts like a 3Bii AC compressor bracket and searching for factory hoses etc from other models which will fit. If you are happy to make/modify a few brackets and use generic hoses then this should not be a major expense in cash terms, but perhaps in time.

Just my experience from lots of time spent doing the 3Bii to 14B/15B conversion. The engine was about the last thing I bought (last week), after finding all the right accessories.

EO

 

[myusername]

@myusername has compiled a comprehensive list of considerations put a 15B into a BJ, it's post #17 in this thread, in case you have not seen it: For Sale - [TX] Toyota 15B-FT Engines - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tx-toyota-15b-ft-engines.1315032/#post-15096029

That was just off the top of my head, I think I have a more comprehensive list somewhere with more details and PN's etc from when I bought my 15BFT. Can update my neglected thread if anyone is interested. A friend has a coaster 15BFT in his BJ40 so I had the opportunity to write a list based on his experience

It looks like OP is onto it and making some good progress!

One important tip before you fire it up again: these can be a pain to prime, and everyone I know with a Coaster 15BFT has found the original primer is bad and leaks when unscrewed. The Bosch alternatives don't fit on the filter housing as it's a different thread etc, it looks like OEM is the only plug and play option. I have had a quick look and you *might* be able to use a standard primer down on the lift pump like the other Toyota inline diesels, but the angle of the return pipe is in the way and I haven't attempted to rotate it yet

My engine is unfortunately still on a stand, so I wouldn't say I'm an expert, but feel free to message if you have any questions. Would also recommend joining the facebook group:

15B-F/FT/FTE engine conversions

Looking forward to updates, I recently got back into my 15BFT project BJ42 so might revive my old thread:

15BFT into '82 Aussie BJ42

 

[DirtSniffer]

That was just off the top of my head, I think I have a more comprehensive list somewhere with more details from when I bought my 15BFT. Can update my neglected thread if anyone is interested.

Very. Considering taking chances with an established Alibaba wrecker that will let you pick engine and send videos of it running, maybe a compression test but if not having oil cap off to check for blow-by is better than nothing. Checking with a local freight forwarder, but should be able to get engine and shipped for about $4600.

 

[myusername]

Very. Considering taking chances with an established Alibaba wrecker that will let you pick engine and send videos of it running, maybe a compression test but if not having oil cap off to check for blow-by is better than nothing. Checking with a local freight forwarder, but should be able to get engine and shipped for about $4600.

Be aware that from what I have seen, the Coaster engines are a very mixed bag, and the mechanical skills of the wreckers who remove them could be described as "child handed an angle grinder". OP's hole in the rocker cover is reflective of the workmanship; someone cut straight thru the hardline from filter housing to the IP on mine (not to mention the rest of the butchery I uncovered when I stripped mine down)

I would budget for stripping to the long block at a minimum. Won't get a compression test on these as no glow plugs, have to remove injectors to do that. The turbo will create negative pressure on the breather tube so won't see blow-by unless it's very bad

If I had my chance again I would source a 15BF locally, but if you're in the USA then you're importing either way so the 15BFT with inline pump might still be a good option

I'll make an effort to update my old thread with a comprehensive knowledge dump on the first post

 

[DirtSniffer]

Be aware that from what I have seen, the Coaster engines are a very mixed bag, and the mechanical skills of the wreckers who remove them could be described as "child handed an angle grinder". OP's hole in the rocker cover is reflective of the workmanship; someone cut straight thru the hardline from filter housing to the IP on mine (not to mention the rest of the butchery I uncovered when I stripped mine down)

I would budget for stripping to the long block at a minimum. Won't get a compression test on these as no glow plugs, have to remove injectors to do that. The turbo will create negative pressure on the breather tube so won't see blow-by unless it's very bad

If I had my chance again I would source a 15BF locally, but if you're in the USA then you're importing either way so the 15BFT with inline pump might still be a good option

I'll make an effort to update my old thread with a comprehensive knowledge dump on the first post

Good point on the blow by, I hadn't considered that. Even if turbo not hooked up to intake? Would definitely be scouring photos for butchery but they seemed to have done a decent job on the ones they put on the posting.

 

[ofer bruhis]

I think fitting an FTE into a BJ would be a wiring nightmare and is not really in keeping with the spirit of the vehicle. I know of one person who has done it, but others have given up and most don't attempt in the first place. An -FT is the pinnacle of a pre-EFI diesel engines. Not cheap though, and the OPs engine looks to have had a pretty rough journey from Japan, though that is probably unavoidable if you are buying in the US.

@myusername has compiled a comprehensive list of considerations put a 15B into a BJ, it's post #17 in this thread, in case you have not seen it: For Sale - [TX] Toyota 15B-FT Engines - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tx-toyota-15b-ft-engines.1315032/#post-15096029

A major decision is on the accessories - are you keeping it 24V or converting to 12V? Single belt or double belt? Keeping the fan clutch or going to direct-drive? All these options are possible but you are likely to need to buy a crank pulley, water pump, fan, AC compressor clutch or alternator to make a full set.

If you want the install to look 'factory' as much as possible, then it gets more complicated (and expensive) trying to source very scarce parts like a 3Bii AC compressor bracket and searching for factory hoses etc from other models which will fit. If you are happy to make/modify a few brackets and use generic hoses then this should not be a major expense in cash terms, but perhaps in time.

Just my experience from lots of time spent doing the 3Bii to 14B/15B conversion. The engine was about the last thing I bought (last week), after finding all the right accessories.

EO

I’ll fabricate the brackets. Convert to 12V. Alternator is a Terrain Tamer that I got for free. I’ll use the starter from the 13Bt that is going out. I may build a bracket for the AC and not sure if the harmonic balancer of the 13Bt will fit.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Very. Considering taking chances with an established Alibaba wrecker that will let you pick engine and send videos of it running, maybe a compression test but if not having oil cap off to check for blow-by is better than nothing. Checking with a local freight forwarder, but should be able to get engine and shipped for about $4600.

Buying a used engine is always going to be a lottery. Ideally you buy a clean looking engine direct from Japan or from a half-cut you know has come from Japan. Buying from China, I would treat it as a rebuildable core.

 

[ofer bruhis]

Got the flywheel from Japan4x4. Rest of the parts from PARTSOUQ. Also pulled the water pump and thermostat housing. Upper pipe points the opposite way. I think the 13Bt will fit. Water passages look good.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

That new flywheel looks nice!

Looks like you only put the pressure plate on to check - if the flywheel is still exposed, and you have a straight edge and a feeler gauge, would you be able to measure the step height between the pressure plate mounting face and the friction face of the flywheel?

I have the same flywheel but it needs machining.

Thanks!

 

[ofer bruhis]

That new flywheel looks nice!

Looks like you only put the pressure plate on to check - if the flywheel is still exposed, and you have a straight edge and a feeler gauge, would you be able to measure the step height between the pressure plate mounting face and the friction face of the flywheel?

I have the same flywheel but it needs machining.

Thanks!

It’s just a fit. I need to pull the plate between the bellhousing and the engine from the 13Bt.

I’ll check tomorrow. Not sure exactly what you want me to measure.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Thanks, that would be really helpful.

Difference in height between the two areas with red crosses, so the height of the step marked with the red arrow.

I want to get an idea of how much I am taking off, and whether to machine both parts to maintain the step height / spring tension.

 

[ofer bruhis]

Thanks, that would be really helpful.

View attachment 3459102
Difference in height between the two areas with red crosses, so the height of the step marked with the red arrow.

I want to get an idea of how much I am taking off, and whether to machine both parts to maintain the step height / spring tension.

I’ll do it tomorrow.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I'd put a block heater in one of the freeze plug holes prior to install. Probably not needed down in CA, but if you travel north, it's a lot easier on the engine if you can plug it in over night.

 

[ofer bruhis]

I'd put a block heater in one of the freeze plug holes prior to install. Probably not needed down in CA, but if you travel north, it's a lot easier on the engine if you can plug it in over night.

Hahaha. Only once I spent the night at -12C in my 80 (1HDFT) and it had no issues starting up. Also I have an option to install an Espar hydronic like I did in my troopy build. I rarely see cold weather. But thanks for the advice.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Will the hydronic unit serve to heat the engine coolant as well as the cabin? My 14BT will cough-to-life in sub-zero temps as well. It just starts and runs much smoother, with less smoke, if it's pre-heated.

 

[ofer bruhis]

Will the hydronic unit serve to heat the engine coolant as well as the cabin? My 14BT will cough-to-life in sub-zero temps as well. It just starts and runs much smoother, with less smoke, if it's pre-heated.

Yes. It’s a slightly different setup. I use a separate 1 gallon coolant circuit for hot air and instant hot water. Some use the engine coolant as the circuit so that keeps the engine warm. Semi trucks have that as a standard item.

 

[ofer bruhis]

Thanks, that would be really helpful.

View attachment 3459102
Difference in height between the two areas with red crosses, so the height of the step marked with the red arrow.

I want to get an idea of how much I am taking off, and whether to machine both parts to maintain the step height / spring tension.

The step on the flywheel is 0.60mm.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

The step on the flywheel is 0.60mm.

Thank you very much indeed!

 

[ofer bruhis]

Engine ready to go in. I’ll probably start next week. This week volunteered with Overland Bound to work in the Mojave with the NPS.
Be camping with our 80 series.