13bt no start …cross post.

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Sure seems like fuel delivery to me. Mityvac is a good idea, could also put a plug on the fuel line going to the filter and pull a vacuum on the fuel lines to see if there is a leak somewhere.
 
Sure seems like fuel delivery to me. Mityvac is a good idea, could also put a plug on the fuel line going to the filter and pull a vacuum on the fuel lines to see if there is a leak somewhere.

This is the filter setup. The only line I took off was the supply side (hard line)

It appears the primer does loose prime after a minute so that seems to me like an air leak. It pressures up right away after a few pumps.

I’m thinking of trying a soapy water spray but not sure it will show anything.

IMG_0157.jpeg
 
These inline pumps do tend to bleed themselves quite well.. even with a bit of air getting in I'd be expecting it to run, even if roughly and then stopping.. with the bleed nipple cracked do you get a steady stream of diesel out when pump the primer? After cranking for a while.. do you still get a steady stream of diesel out after cracking the nipple and pumping again?

The hardline you disturbed, have you tried tightening it more and replacing the crush washers used - one each side front and back - I can see nice fresh crush washers on the filter ends - was the pump end disturbed?

Does the sound of the cranking sound much the same as before the work? Same cadence, not faster, no hint of lack of compression on one or more cylinders?
 
These inline pumps do tend to bleed themselves quite well.. even with a bit of air getting in I'd be expecting it to run, even if roughly and then stopping.. with the bleed nipple cracked do you get a steady stream of diesel out when pump the primer? After cranking for a while.. do you still get a steady stream of diesel out after cracking the nipple and pumping again?

The hardline you disturbed, have you tried tightening it more and replacing the crush washers used - one each side front and back - I can see nice fresh crush washers on the filter ends - was the pump end disturbed?

Does the sound of the cranking sound much the same as before the work? Same cadence, not faster, no hint of lack of compression on one or more cylinders?

Only disturbed the end at the filter. Put new crush washers on, tightened a little more.

Cranking seems normal. When it coughs with the starting fluid seems like its hitting all when trying to run.

Fuel runs great no air when pumping out the bleed valve.


I really need to spill time it. I have this sinking feeling in my gut that I bumped the IP when installing that automatic timing gear on the IP.
 
I think, if I remember correctly, there is a bleed plug on the side of these pump? Sure there is one on the 2h and pretty sure on 3b.
Was a guy on another forum that couldn’t start his 2h without bleeding the pump?
 
Good news, good news, bad news…

Good news: no dead hasenpfeffer 🐇 in my cruiser

Good news: pretty positive I’ve solved it!

I spill timed it and…


IMG_0164.jpeg



The red mark is the timing pin, the yellow is where the marks are on crank pulley. This is the point the fuel spilled out.


bad news: I must have bumped timing somehow putting the gear back on. Ironing else moved so it must have been bumped while putting the automatic timer back on. 😕


Have to tear the timing cover off and spin spin up to 270 times to get the gears to line up and put it back together.

Huge mistake not just lining up the gears the first time. Assumption was since nothing moved (I believed) that I was good. Not so much….
 
Have to tear the timing cover off and spin spin up to 270 times to get the gears to line up and put it back together.

Huge mistake not just lining up the gears the first time. Assumption was since nothing moved (I believed) that I was good. Not so much….

Easier to pull the timing gears off, align everything and reinstall.
 
Easier to pull the timing gears off, align everything and reinstall.

Yep. Timer will be off so only have to pull off the central idler.

I think you can just remove the central idler gear.
Yep that would be easiest to change for sure.



Thanks! I’ll pull tonight or tomorrow and see how it looks. I’m hoping the gasket doesn’t mess up. It shouldn’t since there werent any heat cycles.
 
IMG_0186.jpeg



Am I correct in thinking I’m good to go?

I remember something about checking pushrods to make sure, I think 1 should be loose….4 not.

My valves/pushrods
1: loose
2: loose
3: loose
4: tight
5: tight
6: loose
7:loose
8: tight


According to manual:


IMG_0187.jpeg


So possible my number 7 intake is a little loose.
 
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