FJ55 Tailgate Handle

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Glad I kept a spare from the several Pigs that contributed to the Frankencruiser. Nice to see the availablility though.
 
It's here. A lot earlier than promised (when you order, you are given some choices for how soon you need it with extra costs for ASAP).
Maybe they weren't that busy.
I can't say that I am that impressed with it. It does not spark joy in me. The finish is a little odd, but it is as pictured, I guess that's just the way the printing works. I suppose I could sand it smooth and polish it up, don't really see me doing that though.
Mostly, the handle itself is a good 1/8" short in the width. The gap between the handle and the base on the sides is too big. I was thinking that for 300+ bucks this highly technologically advanced gizmo would have a better fit. It'll probably work, I gotta find some rivets for the pivots, a spring and then tap the base for the bolts, or rob the ones off my spare (yes, I do have one spare, but it's not a great spare. The PO must have stripped the threads for one of the bolts and just drilled through and bolted it from the outside).

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Hey Pighead,

These didn't show up good, but two of my handles used these shoulder bolts instead of rivets. With the bolts you're able to put a new spring on if broken. I'm nut sure where you could find said bolts, but might be easier than the rivets.

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I guess it just blows be away that they’re able to do this with metal. The layered look makes it look like a piece of art (or maybe some wood grain). In the bronze sculpture world there are a few companies that do enlargements using a hard open cell foam. The machines spray it in layers, which kinda resemble that handle.

Anyways, do you think you could take some blocks of steel or aluminum to a machinist and have a handle like that machined up for $300? If I were to make a mold out of a perfect handle and have some aluminum or bronze castings made, not even then sure if it would be cheaper. Idea though...
 
I’m not surprised at the printed finish showing the layers, everything I’ve seen of 3D printing is like that, but the fact it is dimensionally off kinda sucks.
 
Well, well, well - back to this!

Thanks @Pighead for buying and reviewing...

Thsi makes me wonder if we should maybe try the design file that Calvin @DoubleNickels and I have been playing with. I think we got the gap between inner and outer piece a little nicer:
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From here, where we discuss (among other things) the tapping of the outer piece:

 
Yeah man, let's resurrect this. I do think we need to know...

Is tapping required? "Rivets for the Pivots" sounds like a dorky band name. @Pighead , please let us know how that material taps if you go that route.

Agreed that the off-center layers make it appear the arc was designed incorrectly. @PabloCruise , I'll revisit our file to assure symmetry, and also check out that gap clearance.

Finally, regarding those layers, that's a natural part of additive manufacturing (AKA 3D Printing). Metal printers tend to print in thicker layers (think topo lines on a map). The coarser/thicker the layer, the more stair-stepping you see in areas of curvature. Thankfully that will buff out. @Pighead , hit that with a buffer and report back!?

Cheers!

Calvin
 
Yeah man, let's resurrect this. I do think we need to know...

Is tapping required? "Rivets for the Pivots" sounds like a dorky band name. @Pighead , please let us know how that material taps if you go that route.

Agreed that the off-center layers make it appear the arc was designed incorrectly. @PabloCruise , I'll revisit our file to assure symmetry, and also check out that gap clearance.

Finally, regarding those layers, that's a natural part of additive manufacturing (AKA 3D Printing). Metal printers tend to print in thicker layers (think topo lines on a map). The coarser/thicker the layer, the more stair-stepping you see in areas of curvature. Thankfully that will buff out. @Pighead , hit that with a buffer and report back!?

Cheers!

Calvin

Once you review our file, maybe we should do a test print of the center section (the piece that breaks) and see how it looks mated with the factory outer section? The factory outer is already tapped, and breaks less often than the center section.

I think I found a good shouldered bolt to fix the pieces together. As for the spring, re-use the original...
 
Went for a stroll through a hardware store today, found a couple springs the right shape but way too strong probably, bought two anyway. Found some shouldered bolts & stuff, have to enlarge the pivot holes just a tad to fit them. like the idea of bolts better than the rivets for pivots...
Tapping will be necessary for the two bolts that hold the base to the tailgate. Couldn't find a bottom tap in M6, looking at 1/4". Also looking at machine shops in my area. Tapping this may be slightly beyond my shadetree abilities.

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