FJ55 Pre Purchase Questions (1 Viewer)

[aaz513]

Howdy folks - newbie here hoping to soon own an FJ55 instead of just a sideline enthusiast. Seeking braintrust input on Seller’s disclosures below and attached photos. Hired a mobile mechanic and received vague evaluation / didn’t get much by way of vetting the good, the bad, the ugly. So, I’m here to say hi and seek constructive feedback/coaching on what’s materially of concern/big ticket problemos/major headache issues v. the not so bad to worry about. TIA for the guidance and support!!

Seller disclosures:
-Engine belts have cracks
-Brake master is leaking, front calipers are sticking and rear wheel cylinders have been switched side to side.
Front pinion bearing and front driveline u-joints have played.
-Front axle has grease build up and should be serviced.
-Leaf spring bushings are worn.
- Play in steering box and tie-rod ends.

 

[SergP]

Hi. Looks not bad. How is running? How bad rust on the body?

 

[bhsdriller]

Sounds like all normal stuff that typically needs done. How are you at working on this type of stuff by yourself?

What are they asking for it?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Seems like it needs normal work to me.

Belts, hoses are easily to replace. Cheap enough

Brakes - kits to rebuild ( not to hard or costly) or just get new ones. Switched sides rear wheel cylinders means to me the adjusters will work backwards from the book instructions. 4 new correct ones are like $200.

U-joints are cheap, change them all. Pinion, yea well it can done at home but setting the pattern correctly is way more than changing spark plugs or a water pump.

You could do the knuckles, again not for sissy's. My axles had groves where the seals wore from not having locking hubs - I'll be either welding them or maybe a Speedy Sleeve to fix that, next time.

Bushing, yea you could do that too - good chance you will brake rusted stuff trying to get to them - I'm looking at new spring and shocks. I have a kink in the front passenger leaf. At least one set of u bolts are bent with the bottom plate - rocks - I'm thinking a die grinder or a torch is the easy way.

Tie rod ends are cheap and easy enough. Does it the center steering arm thing? Steering box might be adjustable to tighten up - I might go with like a Saginaw unit.

What is the compression dry and wet? Does the clutch slip, chatter, etc? Do all the gears work? Any howling in corners, or when acceleration/deceleration? Do the gages work?
How rusty is the frame - hit it with a ball peen hammer - if it makes holes walk away.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

Sounds like it's been sitting for awhile without being maintained. No big surprise.

All good questions and advice above. The biggest concern is how bad the body/roof rust is.

 

[mattressking]

If you don't do 90% of the labor, it will be a pricey endeavor to get it road worthy, period. Assume $5k to start and unknown timeline based on who does labor and Land Cruiser experience (few and far between to find folks who are actually good mechanics that can be *trusted*). Then mix in quality of labor performing work, subpar shops screwing you over (again if you aren't doing the work).....which based on hiring a mobile tech to inspect, most work will be farmed out.

It is old, it is leaky and it will cost a lot of time and money so maybe shift the needle to $10k.

Someone who is extremely well-versed in 40/55s will have a far better time parts shopping, performing labor and getting it road worthy and likely really enjoy the process, so figure out what person you are first.

 

[Pighead]

Nothing listed is that scary or is likely to require a professional shop. That knuckle doesn't look too bad. Yellow paint on the lower studs may indicate a knuckle job has been done once.
You should ask here on 'Mud for a 'Cruisehead to look at it instead of a mobile mechanic...
What year is it? What kind of power steering does it have? What kind of carburetor is that?
Pics of the body, the interior and your tool box.

 

[Jonathan Hanson]

I've seen Land Cruisers with the issues you listed drive on for another 50,000 miles. With that said, you should address them, and most or all you could do yourself, even the knuckles. You do need a compression test, period. And a thorough, thorough search for body rust, a real problem with 55s. We loved ours.

 

[aaz513]

Mega thankful for the input.

As far as labor, I wish I knew how to perform the work it needs to get it roadworthy and reliable. Recs for any west coast reputable and experienced mechanics well-versed in 40/55s? I’m in NorCal and willing to hire transport delivery. In addition to reputable shop, any recs on reliable auto transporter?

I’m told the frame is solid with surface rust only. Exterior has the common FJ55 rust in the roof, lower front fenders, quarter panels, and tailgate. Floorboards are said to be in good condition as are the rocker panels and body mount structures. Owner upgraded to 60 series power steering. I can provide additional detail after I see it tomorrow.

 

[Pighead]

Recs for any west coast reputable and experienced mechanics well-versed in 40/55s?

Yup. Mudrak in Napa, Georg in Stockton.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

Owner upgraded to 60 series power steering. I can provide additional detail after I see it tomorrow.

Yes, you must post some photos.

 

[65swb45]

Seeing a 2F valve cover and air cleaner, I’m thinking you could be in a world of hurt if it’s not a ‘75; anything 76 and newer still requires full emissions, and that rig has none.

www.marksoffroad.net

 

[aaz513]

Yup. Mudrak in Napa, Georg in Stockton.

Right on!! Right in my neck of the woods too, Thank you!!

 

[aaz513]

Seeing a 2F valve cover and air cleaner, I’m thinking you could be in a world of hurt if it’s not a ‘75; anything 76 and newer still requires full emissions, and that rig has none.

www.marksoffroad.net

Great catch. Should be ok if the VIN and COT are ‘75, right? I’ve been assured the vehicle is titled as a ‘75. Will triple confirm paperwork tomorrow on-site.

 

[cruisermatt]

Right on!! Right in my neck of the woods too, Thank you!!

Have you considered reaching out to them and seeing if they know of or have any recommendations of good Cruiser’s for sale? There is nothing wrong with doing that. Most shops would rather point you towards the right truck so it’s not a headache for them as well as you if they’re going to be working on it.

 

[greenbeast]

Mega thankful for the input.

As far as labor, I wish I knew how to perform the work it needs to get it roadworthy and reliable. Recs for any west coast reputable and experienced mechanics well-versed in 40/55s? I’m in NorCal and willing to hire transport delivery. In addition to reputable shop, any recs on reliable auto transporter?

I’m told the frame is solid with surface rust only. Exterior has the common FJ55 rust in the roof, lower front fenders, quarter panels, and tailgate. Floorboards are said to be in good condition as are the rocker panels and body mount structures. Owner upgraded to 60 series power steering. I can provide additional detail after I see it tomorrow.

Common rust in the areas you mention could be an issue depending on how far down a rabbit hole you wish to get. Body parts for these pigs are pretty much nonexistent, except for few things here and there.

Roof rust leads to bigger problems due to the route water can go.

Pig fanatic here for sure. Coolest Land Cruiser, one of the most rare, fun to drive.

I’m no mechanic but over the years have learned a ton. You can seriously do all the things mentioned. Plenty of help on mud to assist you. Plenty of kits available for mechanicals through cruiser outfitters and others.