I strongly suggest you invest in two AGM dual-purpose batteries. Well-proven technology and durability. With both an alternator and your solar panel you'll need a DC-DC charge controller. Redarc is excellent, but also look at Wagan. Then you'll...
Not a doom sayer . . . as mentioned I've used them extensively, and they're perfectly safe. They're just not necessary any more, and not worth the weight and hassle. I can mount and demount tires on standard rims anywhere if I need to, and have...
I've had a good deal of experience with split rim (or split ring, or retaining ring, take your pick) wheels in East Africa. I also ran them in the 90s (with BFG ATs) while I was leading sea kayak trips into remote areas of Mexico, with that field...
I don't know if this is universal, but on my '73 I had to loosen the door striker plates to remove the top, as they bottomed out on the post that fits into the pillar behind them.
That's a good point. Hazards work with ignition off. Since I cleaned all the contacts in the hazard switch, and cleaned and applied dialectric grease to the connector, perhaps I solved two issues at once? I'm still vague on all the functions that...
Agreed. My truck originally came to me with 15" OEM aluminums shod in 33x1250s. Handled terribly, braked terribly, accelerated terribly.
Now, on same rims with 33x1050s? Handling isnt terrible. 🤣
In a nutshell: unsprung weight bad. Pizza...
These are closer to 16 x 6. I wouldn't install 12-inch-wide tires on them, but then I wouldn't install 12-inch-wide tires on a 70 Series anyway. We run 235/85 x 16, which handled Australia, Tasmania, southern Africa, and North America perfectly.
And . . . solved. It was that single contact, which had clearly been going bad and blowing the fuse before it lost contact altogether. I wired in a jump around the plug for that circuit for now, and everything came up again—turn signals and...
I'd try and measure resistance between each Green-black to ground and then each green-yellow to ground.
You should measure the resistance of the bulbs (assuming they're not LED, this resistance enables the flasher unit to work).
If you flash...
Ah sorry my bad - I read 78 in place of 73.
Maybe this diagram from the later manual is helpful? Basically the same setup but the green-orange is green-black everywhere.
I might have found it. The upper left connection here—which is ignition-excited and connected through the hazard switch to the turn signal assembly, I think—looks decidedly dodgy.
There is no power to any of the turn signal contacts with the ignition on. But there's power at the fuse. I think that leads me back to the hazard switch, but I can't figure out which contacts at the hazard switch connector to jump to find out...
I'm using a factory diagram. The turn signals and voltage regulator definitely share a fuse:
The connector to the hazard switch looked to be in good shape. Testing power to the hazard switch, I got power on always to the green/red wire, power...
Those are as they were when we bought the vehicle, except I've added some protection (heat-shrink, etc.). I'll check the one that feeds the headlamps etc., thanks.
Some time ago the "turn/gen" fuse (turn signals and voltage regulator) on my '73 FJ40 began blowing randomly. Since I hadn't replaced either the alternator or the voltage regulator in at least 20 years, I decided to do so as a precaution and to...
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