electrical questions (2 Viewers)

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BoomerUZ

BoomerUZ

Joined
Mar 1, 2024
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Location
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I have no lights at all. Nothing from the knob, no emergency lights, nothing. Wipers worked till I turned them off, and now they dont turn off again. There is also a switch on the top center of the dash that only goes up/down momentary and does not pick a position. Is there something quick and easy that it could be (all fuses LOOK good) while my other half has all the tools.

Also pictured below is a wire that is not connected to anything - should it be?

IMG_20240318_160559725.jpg
 
Is it only the lights and wipers that don't work? as in it will start and run. I'd still start with cleaning all the battery connections. Wire brushes, baking soda solution will work nicely. A cheap automotive test light or even better a Volt Ohm Meter will make life easier. Your battery needs to be in the 12.5 volt range just sitting there. You can probe the fuses to make sure there is power on both sides of the fuse. Then you can test the switches and bulbs plus even the wires. Down load the wiring diagram for your rig - having a manual is a good thing, even the Chilton's will help.

Got any car people friends to show/help you test stuff. Lots of vids on youtube for trouble shooting electrical issues.

That wire looks melted to me - stretch it out to see where it will reach in order to find the other end.

BTW what year, market and model is it. Is it diesel, 12 or 24 V system.
 
charliemeyer007 said:
Is it only the lights and wipers that don't work? as in it will start and run. I'd still start with cleaning all the battery connections. Wire brushes, baking soda solution will work nicely. A cheap automotive test light or even better a Volt Ohm Meter will make life easier. Your battery needs to be in the 12.5 volt range just sitting there. You can probe the fuses to make sure there is power on both sides of the fuse. Then you can test the switches and bulbs plus even the wires. Down load the wiring diagram for your rig - having a manual is a good thing, even the Chilton's will help.

Got any car people friends to show/help you test stuff. Lots of vids on youtube for trouble shooting electrical issues.

That wire looks melted to me - stretch it out to see where it will reach in order to find the other end.

BTW what year, market and model is it. Is it diesel, 12 or 24 V system.
Click to expand...

Pighead said:
What the heck is that thing? Where do those hoses go? It's mounted to and grounded on the carb? Some sort of vacuum switch? Take that off.
Click to expand...


Battery is brand new - Just grabbed it from my work. ALL my electrical tools are in the FJ which my wife took and wont be back for a while. I am going to wire brush all the fuse connections and replace all the fuses here shortly.


As for the solenoid thing on the carb. I have no clue. Cars got 83k original miles, but the carb was rebuilt 12/13/2017 at Camelback Toyota by Thomas Price who is apparently their Land Cruiser specialist. Do I just remove it and loop the lines from it?

Also need a fuel pump. Would going electric be the right move?
 
BoomerUZ said:
As for the solenoid thing on the carb. I have no clue. Cars got 83k original miles, but the carb was rebuilt 12/13/2017 at Camelback Toyota by Thomas Price who is apparently their Land Cruiser specialist. Do I just remove it and loop the lines from it?

Also need a fuel pump. Would going electric be the right move?
Click to expand...
I would probably first figure out what it is and what it was supposed to do. More and better pics of it and where the hoses attach. and just some more general pics of the engine bay.
Mechanical fuel pumps work just fine and I like them better.
 
Pighead said:
I would probably first figure out what it is and what it was supposed to do. More and better pics of it and where the hoses attach. and just some more general pics of the engine bay.
Mechanical fuel pumps work just fine and I like them better.
Click to expand...


Guess I will buy the mechanical rebuild kit from the vendor here. As for the carb situation. I know the engine says F145 on it. The bottom line goes from what seems to the be the carb spacer, and the top hose comes out and goes to a port near the linkages of the carb. I have attached a few more engine pictures in hopes it will help

IMG_20240317_161655827.jpg


IMG_20240317_161703729.jpg


Screenshot_20240318-183418.png
 
'69 only carb. It was a weird stop gap 2 barrel they used prior to the normal mechanical secondary Aisin we're used to seeing on the early 70's cruisers.

No help on your lights, sorry!
 
MDH33 said:
'69 only carb. It was a weird stop gap 2 barrel they used prior to the normal mechanical secondary Aisin we're used to seeing on the early 70's cruisers.

No help on your lights, sorry!
Click to expand...
Well poop. What do I do with the wires on it? Leave it to me to buy the odd ball lol
 
Pighead said:
What the heck is that thing? Where do those hoses go? It's mounted to and grounded on the carb? Some sort of vacuum switch? Take that off.
Click to expand...
Disregard that. It might be some early fuel cutoff solenoid? SOR carb identifier shows a pic of it...
 
Looking at the picture - I think I see a wire connected, then when I see the later pictures its not. I wonder if thats why it kicked over and ran perfect for a bit, then maybe the wire wiggled outta the poorly crimped connector, and thats why it wouldnt run without carb cleaner after. Could totally be a fuel cutoff. and guy I bought the car from said they replaced the fuel pump shortly after the carb at toyota so I think that I need to put some fuel in it and fine that wire connection. I will check the archives at work tomorrow to see if we happen to have a LC book around from toyota still or not. Perks of working at toyota I guess
 
correction. The wire it looks like its connected to is a sensor on the manifold. So the second wire location is completely unknown.

After lots of scouring, it seems that its connected to the coil. I found these example photos, and some others it wont let me attach, and looks like it goes to coil positive. So looks like I will be getting some wire and stuff at work tomorrow to make the connection and then try to get it to stay running on its own. I also leaned on a fuel line and ripped of off the barb. so need to get some more 5/16 as well.



example3.jpg
 
Last edited:
So you have a loose fuel cutoff solenoid that is missing its power feed, and no electrics?

Is it possible that the solenoid feed wire got shorted to ground and fried your fusible link?

If you have no electrics at all then my first guess would be either the fusible link or the ammeter.
Is the fusible link intact?
Does the ammeter twitch when you switch on the ignition or any lights etc? If you suspect the ammeter then pop the cluster out and short the two ammeter wires together (and not against the metal dashboard as you remove it!)

Since your wipers previously worked (very slowly?) they can also cause your fuses/ fusible link/any bad contact on the current path to go open circuit due to the very high current of a worn out wiper motor and wiring.
Make a test lamp if you don't have one, and test for volts everywhere at the fuse panel to get started.
 
Also this is the switch I am unsure of its purpose. It goes up/down but is momentary, does not stick to either position.

dashswitch.png
 
MDH33 said:
'69 only carb. It was a weird stop gap 2 barrel they used prior to the normal mechanical secondary Aisin we're used to seeing on the early 70's cruisers.

No help on your lights, sorry!
Click to expand...

Pighead said:
I cannot see the switch, could it be for the rear window?
Click to expand...


I appreciate both of you!! I emailed SOR and they confirmed the wiring for me. Positive side goes to the positive side of the coil, and other side grounds to carb body. I made a wire here at work, bought a bunch of fuses. Shes gonna be moving today for sure. Need to get me a wire brush for the fuse wiring as well. But SOR said the wire tells the carb when the engine is off so it stops moving fuel - called an idle shutoff or something.
 
A 30 cal bore brush in a section of cleaning rod makes a nice cleaner for the ear clips in the fuse box. Be sure to disconnect the pos battery connection when you work on the fuse box or pull the gauge panel.
 
That switch is supposed to raise and lower the rear window glass, I bet yours doesn't work...
 
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