New FJ55 owner (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Matt, I didn't think that I could disagree with you more.
"Aftermarket parts" is bad? There is only one correct answer? Ain't OME aftermarket?
I like having an accurate oil pressure gauge that has numbers on it, I think all engines need one. And a coolant temp gauge that reads in numbers. And a voltmeter instead of an idjit light. And a manifold vacuum gauge with numbers. I kinda like my aftermarket rear bumper with the spare tire mount. and the winch. Are winches bad? I like a radio that gets the FM signal. Are headers bad? Front discs are Toyota but the rears aren't. Toyota doesn't make a locking diff for this axle housing, but I need them. I think a well rebuilt engine is better than a factory new engine. I think my machinist is better than their assembly line.
I like bucket seats better than that bench, does that lower my resell price? I didn't buy it to flip it. I bought it to drive it. I don't need a showroom period correct Pig. there's more than one way to build a Pig. I got your snow version right here.

P.S. I think he spelled it Mao...

View attachment 3572406


Please re-review my thread post a 2nd time above mr pighead ,
- i objectively go over all the scenarios , like when a aftermarket part is the only game in town , and discuss the country of origin relationship on this


- i am a STRONG believer when a aftermarket company gets it right , then then THIS IS NOW THE WAY ....



-If a company is TOYOTA Specific and does intense field testing in long distance endurance races in the desert , to confirm the metallurgy and new recipe of a Polyurethane the is in dried contact with it and moving in a awkward range of motion for a constant 72hours and lives ?

then that is the test of all tests to convince me


.
1709483733237.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Yes, you can lift it "normally". years ago I had my leaf springs re-arched, put on some of Mark A.'s shackles and after some sawzall work I could fit 35s on it.
Then I did the SOA, which did involve the front disc brakes conversion, new axle shafts and power steering and stuff. I've had this Pig 38 years or so and have had every size tire from stock to now 37s. Mine is a bit rough with a few dents and rock rash, no carpets and some half working things. Mildly lifted Pigs on 33s or 35s look really good in my opinion.

View attachment 3572304

Matt, I didn't think that I could disagree with you more.
"Aftermarket parts" is bad? There is only one correct answer? Ain't OME aftermarket?
I like having an accurate oil pressure gauge that has numbers on it, I think all engines need one. And a coolant temp gauge that reads in numbers. And a voltmeter instead of an idjit light. And a manifold vacuum gauge with numbers. I kinda like my aftermarket rear bumper with the spare tire mount. and the winch. Are winches bad? I like a radio that gets the FM signal. Are headers bad? Front discs are Toyota but the rears aren't. Toyota doesn't make a locking diff for this axle housing, but I need them. I think a well rebuilt engine is better than a factory new engine. I think my machinist is better than their assembly line.
I like bucket seats better than that bench, does that lower my resell price? I didn't buy it to flip it. I bought it to drive it. I don't need a showroom period correct Pig. there's more than one way to build a Pig. I got your snow version right here.

P.S. I think he spelled it Mao...

View attachment 3572406

I want to hear more about this procharger kit for the UR series... :hmm: Looking for any volunteers?




First of all - these are examples more my speed lol concourse is cool, but utility is cooler. Where I live we have some severe snow storms, and of course when I was a wee child I built competition rock crawlers as my first job and have personal expectations on my vehicles abilities. a HUGE rule of mine, is nothing can be stock. My wifes FJ is lifted on 33s with a full sound system in it even, then her other car is a 1980 corolla wagon thats 4AGE swapped with a MS2 on it. Then she has a stupid VW type 3 that I put headers, new injectors, repainted, some RGB addressable headlights, so forth.


As for my FJ55. I will attach some photos, its got 83k original miles, but that means its sat a LOT of its life and has been in better shape. The goal is first to get it running, see what I like and what I want to change, then make changes. A very good friend of mine is already preparing to ship me a H150F with transfer case that is already converted to a 1uz, so I can just get this other engine and slap it in here to get the HP I will be missing, but also a 5 speed trans will be nice. Hes an engineer for a few professional rally teams and this was in his brothers car. The UZ world is full of awesome stuff!

Also as far as OEM vs aftermarket, almost everything is made in the same factories, just branded differently. Toyota filters come from Taiwan while toyota is in japan. Denso is denso, no matter who you buy it from. Denso plugs from autozone will be the same denso plugs from the dealer, just different box. Things like brake pads, there only a handful of production factories in the whole world, but yet there is 345789601345890178934567890 different brands. MANY name brand companies, are just ordering bulk from suppliers in china, and having their names etched onto it, which I can tell you from personal experience doesnt increase the price very much, I believe it was 5$ per part to have logo etched.

but most importantly, @UZJ40 you should change that 2UZ for an early 1uz. The 2uz is all cast iron, 2 bolt main, not as efficient. while the early 1UZ is a 6 bolt main, factory forged bottom end, all aluminum, sodium filled valve, absolute ball of potential (but also 200lbs lighter). Toyota developed it for the V8 supercar series, and its SO much better and more efficient. Just putting a tune on the NA ones, completely untouched, we have made up to 314whp. Adding boost, just changing injectors, ecu, going to MLS head gaskets instead of the composite, and using arp head studs we have made up to 790whp in a drift car, reliably, for over a decade without engine failure.

I have attached a few photos - some of my new LC, one of the 1uz in my daily driver, the supercharged engine that is destined for my LC, and of course for UZJ40 the picture of the procharger mounted on the LS460 3UR that is one of the two prototype cars. This ones DI which we are having trouble getting the current tuning options out there to work for it, the non DI engine we can swap to a megasquirt and throw out the stupid things like dual MAFs and be much better off but still in the ECU stages. The DI one starts and runs, but fuel trims are wonky, and the provided tuner by the cars owner is absolutely horrific.

received_1589957201817827.jpeg


received_6761807230584212.jpeg


received_313402219248455.jpeg


received_990767489050558.jpeg


orca-image--1403693304.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Way over my head with that new-fangled engine stuff, but that's a '69 grill I think
 
but most importantly, @UZJ40 you should change that 2UZ for an early 1uz. The 2uz is all cast iron, 2 bolt main, not as efficient. while the early 1UZ is a 6 bolt main, factory forged bottom end, all aluminum, sodium filled valve, absolute ball of potential (but also 200lbs lighter). Toyota developed it for the V8 supercar series, and its SO much better and more efficient. Just putting a tune on the NA ones, completely untouched, we have made up to 314whp. Adding boost, just changing injectors, ecu, going to MLS head gaskets instead of the composite, and using arp head studs we have made up to 790whp in a drift car, reliably, for over a decade without engine failure.
I sold the 2UZ 40 a few years ago... currently driving a 3UR powered extended cab FJ45 I've been building -

20231223_161948 (1).jpg


20231121_120525.jpg


I believe I have room for a procharger under the hood....
 
I sold the 2UZ 40 a few years ago... currently driving a 3UR powered extended cab FJ45 I've been building -

View attachment 3572764

View attachment 3572765

I believe I have room for a procharger under the hood....
Brother I dont think you have ANY room under this hood. lol for the URs we are mounting center mass, where the fans are, the depth of the unit is like 7-8" with the plate on the back. How close to the radiator are you?
 
Ohhhhh in that case, yeah. Nope, I don't see that working! Guess I'll have to keep daydreaming about the Magnussen.
 
Looks like the start of a great project. How do you know it's only 83k miles? Just curious as this subject comes up often with 6 digit odometers.
dealership records, its only had a couple owners, I think im the 4th because the title im holding was issued in 2013 and the original owners had it for a longgg time. But also things like wear on the pedal rubbers is very minimal, a bunch of the wear parts have factory witness marks on them, and its also been inop for quite some time now lol even the seats are plump still, the sun has just destroyed the fabric so its powdery and tears if you look at it wrong
 
No I actually know exactly the square roof of jack diddly about the F series. I notice that your oil filter is in a different position to mine, mine is off on the drivers side on some sort of remote thing. I notice you are using a regular carb, why not do that EFI system to go for the TBI? Thats as far into reading about the engines I have gotten is to get rid of the carb for the EFI because they are apparently not good offroad and starve at all kinds of angles lol What kinda HP that one makin?
 
PM said introductions are welcome, photos encouraged. Unfortunately photos wont come until later when its delivered, but recently saved an FJ55 from a body shop. Owner is most likely a member here since he has a badass FJ40 as well, but moved out of state and the ol 55 was at a body shop to be fixed and they are - uhhhh... less than efficiently productive? I think thats a nice way to put it. I am very excited to bring the life back to the car, it definitely has a soul and personality about it that I am digging. As the name implies, im usually a 1uz guy - I produce the only functional procharger kit for the UZ series, and will soon finish the R&D for the UR series, ive turbo charged them, supercharged, nitrous, you name it - I currently daily a MS Goldbox NA UZ with COP conversion on speed density. I have an obsession with old toyota stuff, I lost my 1968 Corona Deluxe with a built 20R to a bad snow storm here which prompted the search for 4wd (wifes also got her 2007 FJ which I am personally not a fan of) and I could not stop going back to the FJ55 ad and ended up having to bring it home. I have been already eyeballing the winch bumper setup I see listed on here, and will definitely be needing sources for door reseal kits for windows and stuff. Wifes also got a VW squareback and I know for that we were able to buy full kits for the doors, so hopefully theres something similar for this ol girl too. I do work at toyota, but the Heritage program does the 40, 60, 70 and 80 leavin me out of it.
Welcome fellow MegaSquirt-er.
 
No I actually know exactly the square roof of jack diddly about the F series. I notice that your oil filter is in a different position to mine, mine is off on the drivers side on some sort of remote thing. I notice you are using a regular carb, why not do that EFI system to go for the TBI? Thats as far into reading about the engines I have gotten is to get rid of the carb for the EFI because they are apparently not good offroad and starve at all kinds of angles lol What kinda HP that one makin?
The oil filter switched sides in '74ish for the "Late F' engine and then stayed for the 2F. I stick with the carb because it's what I know and I know I can rebuild it trailside. Original carb works just fine off road.
 
Welcome fellow MegaSquirt-er.

MS for the win!! I am fortunate in having one of the developers as a friend and I get so much help with remote tuning otherwise I would be dead in the water


The oil filter switched sides in '74ish for the "Late F' engine and then stayed for the 2F. I stick with the carb because it's what I know and I know I can rebuild it trailside. Original carb works just fine off road.

See thats what I wanted to hear. Most the stuff im seeing is complaining about the carbs, or how they are lifted, or the steering. Its nice to see someone who clearly uses theirs say something otherwise. I notice you have SPOA - is yours the OME kit, or is yours just SPOA? I considered the EFI kit but im at a battle of do I modify this stock engine with the intention to swap it, or will I modify it and be happy with it and just have more engines layin around.
 
where do we fond your build thread? lol
That would be a very long build thread. Did I mention that I've had this Pig for 38 years? And started modding it on day 1? There was a few pages of thread on Pirate when we did the SOA and installed the doubler, that was 20 years ago and the link doesn't work anymore.
 
77’ piggy. Purchased with Alcan lift. Not sure the height but I’d be happy to take some measurements if interested. No toys mounted on Marge just yet so not much extra weight.
IMG_1039.jpeg
IMG_1041.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom