FJ40 Full Floater Axle Build (IH8C-CLIPS)

[Stumpalama]

Nothing would chase the axle to walk out if you left the C-clips in!

Are you keeping your auto-locker or going to a Toyota E-locker?

You're joking, right? The mental gymnastics will be worth it in the end. Did I mention there are no chromoly semi-floating axles?
I am sticking with the ARB.

 

[Stumpalama]

Also, check to see if they are the same price at Summit, since they offer free shipping.

 

[Stumpalama]

Below is the response from TG. Not necessarily the in depth response I was looking for, but i gues the only way to truly find out is to run 'em. As a backup, I will also take axle measurements with the stock brake hubs to ensure I can swap them in if the experiment fails or to use as a spare should I blow up a hub at some point.

From: tech support <tech@trail-gear.com>
No sir, no problem at all they would be perfect


From: Stump
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 4:21 AM
To: tech support <tech@trail-gear.com>
Subject: Re: Toyota studless hubs on rear axle

Hi,
Do you see any reason your studless hubs cannot be used in a rear full floater application?
Thanks,
Mike Thomas


On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 12:40 PM -0800, "Mike Thomas" wrote:

Have you had anyone run your Toyota studless hubs on the rear of a full floater Land Cruiser axle? Do you see any reason why these could not be run on the rear? I am building a full floater rear axle using a weld on disc brake and spindle mount and would like to use the studless hubs in the rear. I am curious to know if the cap retainer snap ring is strong enough to keep the drive slug and inner axle in the hub.

Thank you for any feedback you have to offer.

Cheers,
Mike Thomas

 

[srgould41]

That would make an awesome signature line

In all fairness 500 foot pounds of engine torque, heavy right foot and no brain will always find the weak link

 

[Stumpalama]

It can never be easy...

Yup, looks like the axle is bent. Looks to be about 5/8" out; any suggestions?

 

[pjohnson]

Source another housing (?)

At least it should be cheap.

 

[White Stripe]

Are you sure that bar is not bent? You could always get another housing or just get a diamond housing. You could probably fix that housing if you wanted. I know quite a few guys have straigtened front toyota axle housings.

 

[47coeman]

That's to bad...

 

[J Mack]

No big deal to straighten, looking at the picture it looks like it warped when the spring perches were welded but it’s hard to see everything from pictures. Put a straight edge to see where it’s bent then chain and push on either side of the bend.



My housing did the same thing right at the perch and in this picture you can see what I’m talking about with the chain and porta-power.

More detailed description here: Target carrier

 

[Stumpalama]

@J Mack , i think you're right, it is certainly bent in the exact direction of the perch. I am going to try to straight it..
Heat and pressure. Now to find an I beam...

 

[J Mack]

i think you're right, it is certainly bent in the exact direction of the perch.

This could also explain some of your axle issues.

I am going to try to straight it..
Heat and pressure. Now to find an I beam...

I only needed heat on the short side front, everything else moved easy with just hydraulic pressure.
If you have a hand pump with a gauge and can monitor how much you're pushing and take it in small steps it helps take some of the guess work out out of straightening and not over bending.

 

[J Mack]

It can never be easy...
any suggestions?

I removed the section between the red lines when I built my rear, it’s was just pressed on the housing and was pretty easy to tap off. Something to look at before you start welding.

 

[J Mack]

any suggestions?

Looking again at your photos it looks your anti/wrap bar mounts might be the culprit for the warped tube.

A possible solution might be to fixture your housing on a piece of I-beam and push it straight then weld a back brace to your anti/wrap bar mounts while you still have the pressure, the weld should pull the housing back the direction you need and as an added bonus you’ll have the benefit of the back brace. Then final straighten after everything cools.



Picture I stole of Lil’John’s back brace

 

[White Stripe]

Another thing you could do is thread the ends of your pipe, take 2 cones on each side. Use a rose bud to heat where the housing is bent and as it gets hot run the cones in on each side. Once the cones are threaded all the way in, let it cool.

 

[peteinjp]

Ive been lurking on this thread and I now know exactly why my front axle has positive camber.......

Another thing you could do is thread the ends of your pipe, take 2 cones on each side. Use a rose bud to heat where the housing is bent and as it gets hot run the cones in on each side. Once the cones are threaded all the way in, let it cool.

I think I need a little more explaining here.......

Pete

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I think I need a little more explaining here.......

Pete

The bar is straight and it has threads on either end where it sticks of the housing. If you thread the cones in the cones try to force the axle back to center to be in line with the bar. When you heat the housing it is able to move, so tightening the cones on the bar allows you to straighten the axle because the bar pulls the housing back to center.

 

[J Mack]

I think I need a little more explaining here.......

Pete

If we use Stumpalama’s housing as an example you can see where he welded his anti-wrap bar mounts here.

And you can see the housing has pulled about 5/16” in that direction. As the weld cools it shrinks pulling the housing in that direction, the closer the weld to the center of the housing the more it moves the outer ends. Pre and post heat (100* to 700*) will help some but I’ve never seen it eliminate warping completely.

I’ve seen some of the shops that do housings professionally use an external alignment fixture that they can clamp the housing securely in several locations to help resist warping, an axle alignment jig will hold parts in alignment for welding and will show how much your housing warped during welding. My jig uses a 70” piece of 1.375” 4140 precision ground shafting, the shaft is supported with aluminum pucks that replace the carrier side bearings in the center section then extends out both sides of the housing and has adaptors to hold or center axle flanges. This bar is strong enough (resist deflection) to align parts and confirm straightness, this bar is not strong enough to straighten housings by simply centering the bar and applying heat. If you heat the entire tube to the red heat range (1000* to 2000*) to try to get it to move without the use of hydraulic pressure it would be very difficult to get predictable results in the home shop.

 

[Stumpalama]

How about welding a hot bead on the opposite side of the bend?

 

[J Mack]

How about welding a hot bead on the opposite side of the bend?

Yes that will move it but again very difficult to get predictable results. Hydraulic pressure with minimal or no heat is the easiest and least expensive way for a home shop to get predictable results that I know of.

 

[Stumpalama]

I am working on sourcing an I-beam for this job right now... I'm wondering how many times I've passed up a scrap piece of I beam that would be perfect for this job...