FJ40 Full Floater Axle Build (IH8C-CLIPS) (1 Viewer)

[LAMBCRUSHER]

^^^this...the porta power and a bean and chain will be better for this that the HF press, IMO...you'll need to secure the length of the housing for leverage. that'll be hard on stands next to a press...


OTOH...I am guessing that the factory welds all the perches and whatnot before centering the hubs, and that they have an environment where they can easily post heat and secure the housings in jigs...just a wild assed shot in the dark, tho...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

beam, not bean...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

then fab an arbor for the porta power ram to go in to use as a bearing and stud press...

 

[Stumpalama]

Looks like 10 ton is the going size for a porta power set-up. I'm all for it if it is the right tool for the job.

 

[J Mack]

If I were going to truss an axle housing I would build a fixture to hold it securely to minimize the straitening required after welding.

Overkill but you get the idea:

I come from ¼ mile race car/ hot rod back ground and I’m relatively new to the 4X4 thing but I’m amazed at the amount of guys that think they can weld on an axle tube and expect it not to warp if they (insert something they read on the interwebs here).


Stumpalama’s housing moved 5/16” from center or 5/8” total as measured and that is not much for the amount of work he did, for reference mine moved ¼” adding similar mounts so I would expect we are most likely the norm not the exception. Stumpalama’s axle was deflecting 1° per revolution with this minimal housing warpage and just like anything steel the axle has a fatigue limit the cyclic stress that can be applied to the material without causing fatigue failure. Again I don’t pretend to be an expert but I do know if you weld on one side of a tube it will always pull to that side and you should always expect to have to straighten some if you weld on an axle housing even if you’ve taken precautions to minimize warpage.

 

[Stumpalama]

I come from ¼ mile race car/ hot rod back ground

Sprint car stuff? We used to watch the sprint cars at Western Speedway in Langford, BC. Good times!

 

[Stumpalama]

I really appreciate all the knowledge being shared here... I just want to deliver a result here in the near future. Adding to this misery of a bent housing, was sourcing recently discontinued ARB RD33 locker replacement parts for the cap and ring gear flanges that were damaged from the axle flopping around in the housing after it broke. I have those parts, finally and will be helping (watching) my local differential guru (@OTRAMM ) fix it. Beats the hell out of dropping another $1K for a new one.

 

[Stumpalama]

I also have to locate where the bend starts. It is not that apparent since it seems to make a gradual climb. I need to break out the laser level and some long steel.

 

[srgould41]

Are you done yet? What's taking so long?

 

[Stumpalama]

Are you done yet? What's taking so long?

uh, hello (in my best teen girl inflection) Have you read thru the thread? I'm having some issues...

 

[srgould41]

Hmmm, nice girl imitation. Do you sound like that often?

I am really glad to know about the axle warp when welding on brackets. I never would have thought about that. I nearly installed an anti-wrap bar myself. Would have sucked to start breaking axle shafts without knowing why. Hope you get yours solved quickly.

 

[Stumpalama]

Hmmm, nice girl imitation. Do you sound like that often?

Only on the phone.

Yeah, I too am hoping for quick and successful resolution...

 

[abosely]

Hey Stump, sorry your having such an up hill go of it on your axle build. But this is an Awesome thread!
Some really good info coming out of it.

I'll be doing the LCWizard FF conversion in a while and adding a truss on the long side and new RS perches, now I know to plan on having some bending happen and will straighten the housing. This might explain some of the broken axles that happen over and over for some guys. Do a bit of welding and the housing isn't as straight as expected.

Looking forward to seeing how the studless hubs work out. They look quite interesting.

Cheers, Allen

 

[Stumpalama]

Got a chunk of I-beam and will be working on getting the straightening apparatus set up next week.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

how big a hunk did you have to get?

 

[Stumpalama]

I got a 50" piece of 6" 12# beam.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

NIIIICE...

 

[J Mack]

Looks like 10 ton is the going size for a porta power set-up. I'm all for it if it is the right tool for the job.

Enerpac has 10,000 psi rams that are more compact than standard 4,000 psi port-a-power sets, check eBay for “Enerpac RC102 10 Ton Hydraulic Ram” or “Enerpac 10 Ton Hydraulic Ram” and you should be able to find something for under a hundred bucks.

If you don’t already have a 10,000 psi pump you’ll need to look for the “Enerpac P-392 Hydraulic Hand Pump” again they can be found cheap on eBay.



If you don’t mind ugly this pump and ram can be had for $175.00: Hydraulic Pump Porta Power With 10 Ton Enerpac Cylinder.

 

[Stumpalama]

So, while I wait for my 1/2" grade 70 chain to show up, I've be contemplating how best to truss this axle. My initial thoughts are to weld the 3/8" Ruffstuff rear cover I have to the housing and use it as the base for a horizontal truss. I don't know why, but I'm kind of torn because doing it this way eliminates the capability to remove the cover, though I don't know why I would need to.

Any suggestions on how to effectively and simply truss an axle with a wrap bar mount?

 

[Stumpalama]

Enerpac has 10,000 psi rams that are more compact than standard 4,000 psi port-a-power sets, check eBay for “Enerpac RC102 10 Ton Hydraulic Ram” or “Enerpac 10 Ton Hydraulic Ram” and you should be able to find something for under a hundred bucks.

If you don’t already have a 10,000 psi pump you’ll need to look for the “Enerpac P-392 Hydraulic Hand Pump” again they can be found cheap on eBay.



If you don’t mind ugly this pump and ram can be had for $175.00: Hydraulic Pump Porta Power With 10 Ton Enerpac Cylinder.

Seller didn't respond to my best offer... oh well.