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- #221
Yeah so I've been told haha, but I'm on sketchy crooked asphalt so jacking it would be far from safe. Was gonna tow rope it to a buddys place that has level ground, but here we are ha.
First car, lx450! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter tug123
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- Thread starter
- #222
Finally, PHH and the no fun throttle body hose are replaced without breaking the knock sensor!
Brutal part is now the brake booster isn't going back in (got it past the lip of the intake already), wonder if I bent the screws. A problem for tomorrow.
Got just about all the radiator, upper level and firewall hoses disconnected too, only one or two belligerent ones left. Just gotta replace radiator + fan clutch + water pump (arrive tomorrow), put in these new hoses + heater control valve, crimp up my new injector connectors and put it all back together.
Really hoping I can start it up Wednesday.
Brutal part is now the brake booster isn't going back in (got it past the lip of the intake already), wonder if I bent the screws. A problem for tomorrow.
Got just about all the radiator, upper level and firewall hoses disconnected too, only one or two belligerent ones left. Just gotta replace radiator + fan clutch + water pump (arrive tomorrow), put in these new hoses + heater control valve, crimp up my new injector connectors and put it all back together.
Really hoping I can start it up Wednesday.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I haven't had my booster out, but read on here recently that having a second person in the cabin to line up the studs as you install from the engine bay makes all the difference.
forum.ih8mud.com
Brake Booster Aftermarket Recommendation?
forum.ih8mud.com
Having just replaced my booster, I'm remembering a step that wasn't applicable on disassembly that was crucial on reassembly--the firewall has two layers. If you've got the lip past the intake and you cant get those closer studs in, take a look from inside the cabin and you may find the two outside studs to be in the first firewall layer only and are hung up at the interior firewall layer. I took a small but sturdy pick/screwdriver to lever the studs all the way through the firewall and it made all the difference in creating the clearance needed to get the booster in the rest of the way.I haven't had my booster out, but read on here recently that having a second person in the cabin to line up the studs as you install from the engine bay makes all the difference.
Brake Booster Aftermarket Recommendation?
I put an amazon booster on recently. Definitely a pain, the cherry on top was realizing that that the amazon unit has longer studs than OEM, and it’s actually impossible to get in if the intake is still on. Pulled it back out and cut ~1cm off to match OEM length. The threads bind on the firewall with the angle we slide our boosters in.
I attached the brake pedal and pulled it up (towards dash) to drag the booster into place. The thread bind was crazy even after I got the 4 studs poked through the firewall
I attached the brake pedal and pulled it up (towards dash) to drag the booster into place. The thread bind was crazy even after I got the 4 studs poked through the firewall
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- #226
I finally got it back in, I will say @lexustruck has the cheat. I spent a good 20 minutes trying to use the screwdriver, but once you attach it to the brake pedal it takes 30 seconds to get it all the way through. Seems like it aligns it better than anything else.
I forgot awhile ago, but the connector that goes to the EGR temp sensor is broken and now lost. I still have the wires, but I was about to not be happy because I figured I'd have to wait for a new connector now. I found this thread though, it just so happens that the EGR temp sensor is where you do the resistor trick, correct? Seems like I might've dodged a bullet here, I'm gonna dig more into this but my understanding is that I can basically just rig this up with a resistor (safely) and not worry about it.
I found this image from ih8mud (not mine), but it's the bottom connector that's gone. Temp sensor and the connector on that wire is all good, but the other side that goes down to the wiring harness is MIA.
I forgot awhile ago, but the connector that goes to the EGR temp sensor is broken and now lost. I still have the wires, but I was about to not be happy because I figured I'd have to wait for a new connector now. I found this thread though, it just so happens that the EGR temp sensor is where you do the resistor trick, correct? Seems like I might've dodged a bullet here, I'm gonna dig more into this but my understanding is that I can basically just rig this up with a resistor (safely) and not worry about it.
I found this image from ih8mud (not mine), but it's the bottom connector that's gone. Temp sensor and the connector on that wire is all good, but the other side that goes down to the wiring harness is MIA.
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- #227
Okay yeah I'm satisfied with my research (this picture is mine). I know the wire's in the wrong place, I'll move it after, but I'm just gonna rig up a 4.7k resistor on here and call it a day, heat shrink it and deal with it later if I ever want a prettier solution. Is it bad if I leave vacuum lines for EGR stuff in place for now? Guess that could cause problems if the EGR isn't actually doing anything.
You can leave the whole EGR system (vacuum lines and all) in place without issue. Just add the resistor and call it good.
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- #229
Perfect, just wired up an extra new injector connector to substitute with a 4.7k, works great.
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- #230
Fedex sent the last parts I need to Spokane when it was 2hr away from me because "it went on the wrong truck". Won't be able to finish till I get those, has the weird thermostat gasket and a couple nuts that I really need.
Everything else is looking great though, EGR resistor trick is wired up well, crimped up my injector connector, thermostat is replaced and all hoses are out. Wanna do a little cleaning, then I'll put injectors back in, upper intake and throttle body all back on tomorrow. May replace the radiator if I'm bored, but seems dumb and I should just wait till the fan clutch and water pump come to not make my life harder. Getting really close!
Everything else is looking great though, EGR resistor trick is wired up well, crimped up my injector connector, thermostat is replaced and all hoses are out. Wanna do a little cleaning, then I'll put injectors back in, upper intake and throttle body all back on tomorrow. May replace the radiator if I'm bored, but seems dumb and I should just wait till the fan clutch and water pump come to not make my life harder. Getting really close!
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- #231
Realizing I may have missed two hoses - anyone know what these are supposed to be? At first I thought they were apart of the upper rear heater hard line assembly, but I don't think that makes sense. Cannot find any posts on these for the life of me.
Actually, looking at it one last time I think the bottom is capped off in the pipe, so the left circle doesn't apply. But the right circle is still ambiguous to me.
Actually, looking at it one last time I think the bottom is capped off in the pipe, so the left circle doesn't apply. But the right circle is still ambiguous to me.
Looks like the circles are both on a hard line.
- Thread starter
- #233
The one I'm unsure about is this. The top one (I believe) is 87245E in the diagram above, and the other one is just capped so no hose goes there. Feels like if I just do gates 5/8" cut to length that'd work, but not 100% sure because straight seems like a strange angle. If it is, would be awesome if someone knew the length to cut it to.
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- #234
Ah I found it here. It does go into the upper heater hard line, just not the molded hose (that's the one that goes into the assembly on the left side of the bay).
Looks like it's a 1/2", I *think this post is referencing that same hose. The confusing thing is they seem to be referencing the hose that goes down from 82709 (T connection), which would make sense, but in the picture with it it's on the pipe that I'm trying to work out. Joey's old diagram of hoses also says it's a straight 1/2", feels like it too just maybe is a weird fit.
Looks like it's a 1/2", I *think this post is referencing that same hose. The confusing thing is they seem to be referencing the hose that goes down from 82709 (T connection), which would make sense, but in the picture with it it's on the pipe that I'm trying to work out. Joey's old diagram of hoses also says it's a straight 1/2", feels like it too just maybe is a weird fit.
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- Thread starter
- #235
Finally putting it back together, think I figured out the whole hose situation (forgot a few, again) but pretty sure this is the last time and it is all that I need.
When putting on the intake gasket, anyone know which way is up (bumpy side or indented side)?
My wiring harness wrap near the EGR is pretty iffy, I'm gonna order better sheathing since this will take another week or two anyways. Really just gotta do the radiator and family and put everything back together now. My few week old battery is dead again though which makes me a little bit nervous that something's leaching power, hope I don't have to do this all over again because the wiring harness has some gremlins.
When putting on the intake gasket, anyone know which way is up (bumpy side or indented side)?
My wiring harness wrap near the EGR is pretty iffy, I'm gonna order better sheathing since this will take another week or two anyways. Really just gotta do the radiator and family and put everything back together now. My few week old battery is dead again though which makes me a little bit nervous that something's leaching power, hope I don't have to do this all over again because the wiring harness has some gremlins.
- Thread starter
- #236
While replacing the radiator I finally figured out what those hoses underneath the radiator are - the transmission hoses. Since I already basically drained the transmission fluid when unplugging them from the radiator, guess I might as well replace those as well (good thread here). Does it ever end haha
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- #237
I am noticing a bunch of what seems to be oil all over the left side of the water pump/thermostat area. Does that mean another gasket probably needs changing, perhaps oil pump gasket/front crank seal?
distributor o-ring
oil pump seal along with front main seal
ps pump hoses
ps reservoir top seal
ps reservoir cap seal
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- #239
Truly never ends
Already did the dizzy o ring but ill do all the others, at that point there better be nothing else to do haha
For front main don’t i need a 304lb torque wrench?
yes or a torque multiplier and whatever torque wrench you have.Truly never ends
Already did the dizzy o ring but ill do all the others, at that point there better be nothing else to do haha
For front main don’t i need a 304lb torque wrench?
