So did you paint it blue or teal?
Car Car Nut talks about 80s
- Thread starter cruiserdan
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You must be mistaken. The 3FE doesn't blow head gaskets!
No doubt this is any easier job on your motor than the 4.5. I don't hate the 3FE, it's a great motor but my preference is for the FZ.How about your window motors, are they all working OK? I question the wisdom of paying top dollar for these particular OEM parts when OEM has a poor track record.
TCCN discussion of 80 series axle service got me thinking that my old 2nd gen 4runner has easier, apparently less problematic, and much less expensive front drive components to work on.
I think that’s a 100 series front end setup
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
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Oldmate in the Aussie video seemed to rattle all the bolts in hard with his 18 volt Makita torque wrench.
Just another example of someone who knows his way around, but taking shortcuts, and doing stuff that's not strictly correct.
You can get away with rattling bolts in with an impact gun a lot of the time, but sooner or later something is going to go ugga dugga dugga vrooooooooooom
Just drinking my morning coffee...and starting s***...
OTRAMM is miles better. I heard OTRAMM replaces the bible in hotels with the FSM whenever he travels, to spread the word...
Hot Take, if you forget a major part putting a hub back together, you are not doing it right. Plus, he takes what I call "mechanic shortcuts," and neglects to document important steps to his audience.
I am sure the Car Care Nut works hard, but I personally wouldn't use his videos as instructional videos, IMHO. Entertainment: Yes. Instructional: No.
FSM is the ultimate resource but there is an Aussie video on rebuilding the front knuckle I was impressed with. The aussie guy has done it many times with the harshest conditions in mind. It is that kind of real experience I look for when I need more than what the FSM has to offer.
My 2 cents.
Oldmate in the Aussie video seemed to rattle all the bolts in hard with his 18 volt Makita torque wrench.
Just another example of someone who knows his way around, but taking shortcuts, and doing stuff that's not strictly correct.
You can get away with rattling bolts in with an impact gun a lot of the time, but sooner or later something is going to go ugga dugga dugga vrooooooooooom
Ironic you mentioned this. I was thinking of Rozzelle in the shop…. And if technology was advanced back then from the POV of presentation…almost 20 years ago, he would have been a good one to put in front of a screen.
The FZ is definitely a better engine for the first 300,000 miles or so but after that the iron head 3fe with pushrods is going to have better longevity.You must be mistaken. The 3FE doesn't blow head gaskets!
How about your window motors, are they all working OK? I question the wisdom of paying top dollar for these particular OEM parts when OEM has a poor track record.
TCCN discussion of 80 series axle service got me thinking that my old 2nd gen 4runner has easier, apparently less problematic, and much less expensive front drive components to work on.
My passenger front window is a goes slow occasionally, evening stopping and needs a little help. lubricating the tracks helps but I seldom put it down.
The front axle is a definite strength of the 80 being that it is a straight and very strong. It requires maintenance occasionally like everything. Funny thing is that when I had a 4th gen 4runner, the ultimate mod was to do a straight front axle conversion.
- Thread starter
- #88
Except for the fact that all of the 3FE mission-critical parts that make them run are discontinued. Gone are throttle bodies, EFI computers, Fuel pressure regulators, distributors, idle air controllers, fuel injectors, airflow meters, drive belt lower idler, air intake hoses... etc.
Some 1ZF stuff is also going away but it's not that bad yet.
Edited to clarify 3FE components.
Last edited:
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No not all those parts are NLA. ECU and TB assemblies yes. The rest not so much. I got it all new under the hood of my 80.
Any day they may go NLA but last I checked everything is still available even the MAF.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #90
I was listing 3FE items. I wasn't quite clear.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I am not sure which part of the video you are referring to, but the small impact driver he is using doesn't have a huge amount of tightening torque. It is not like he is using a 1/2" or 3/4" air impact and going to town on a M8 bolt....
Believe it or not, some very experienced mechanics can get extremely close to the correct torque using an impact driver. I couldn't but some can. Matt of Matt's Off Road Recovery was challenged because he only uses an impact driver and he was right on the money.
The M10 7T spindle bolts I see the aussie tightening with the small driver shouldn't have a problem. He then uses a torque wrench to set the torque to specifications. I am fine with that and it is his truck after all. He is servicing his own vehicle.
Personally, I will grab a torque wrench everytime to do the final tightening because I am not that good with an impact driver.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I am not sure which part of the video you are referring to, but the small impact driver he is using doesn't have a huge amount of tightening torque. It is not like he is using a 1/2" or 3/4" air impact and going to town on a M8 bolt....
Believe it or not, some very experienced mechanics can get extremely close to the correct torque using an impact driver. I couldn't but some can. Matt of Matt's Off Road Recovery was challenged because he only uses an impact driver and he was right on the money.
The M10 7T spindle bolts I see the aussie tightening with the small driver shouldn't have a problem. He then uses a torque wrench to set the torque to specifications. I am fine with that and it is his truck after all. He is servicing his own vehicle.
Personally, I will grab a torque wrench everytime to do the final tightening because I am not that good with an impact driver.
I've used cordless Impact drivers as a tradie for decades, and watched countless others in action.
An 18volt 1/4 drive impact driver can absolutely exceed the torque specs on those bolts. The basic model makita is rated at 125ft,lb
I've tested this a few times myself with my own tools and torque wrench because I was curious.
It's super easy to exceed torque specs IMO
I do use my impact driver a lot working on cars. and yes, you can gently run things down until it starts hammering. Repeatedly hammering then tight is a gamble IMO
Yes, you can guess at torque, but it is just a guess.
If he's got the touch where he can reliably get close without exceeding specs, kudos to him.
The average person who needs a how to video for this stuff, and follows that example isn't likely to have the same touch.
There's always many ways to skin a cat, this is why I said O don't think I've watched a single definitive how to video ever where there isn't corners cut, or improvements to be made.
you do you
Wow 
Fortunately or unfortunately I acquired quite a few spare used oem parts right after I bought it trying to work the bugs out. Also I have found that aftermarket parts are ok in a lot of cases. I might have to go through a couple until I find an acceptable replacement but usually it works out. The IAC valve does concern me though. My biggest worry is probably the transmission.
If all else fails, eventually I might go down the LS swap rabbit hole but that solution is expensive to do right. I am even considering a Cummins but that might be a little too much.
- Thread starter
- #96
The best re-power is a V8, LS probably the easiest to get right. A lovely exhaust note and you can buy parts for it at Walmat at 3 o'clock in the morning.
For what it’s worth I’ve heard good things about car car nut. I work about half hour away from his shop, never met the guy but some of my customers have used them (not for Land Cruiser repair but other Toyota models). Never heard a negative thing about the guy.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
Best thing I ever did...2020 L96 with 6L90e transmission with 26K miles. L96 is a 6.0L cast iron block without DOD/AFM from the factory. As far as I can tell, 2020 was the last year for the L96. I paid a pretty penny for it, with the transmission, but it was probably still less than paying someone doing a new short block rebuild on a 1FZ-FE.
Easy to source parts for years and most mechanics can work on it.
However, I was at a local Garage the other day, and they had a rule of not working on cars made before the year 2000. I wonder how common that is...
Like it was meant to be...
Easy to source parts for years and most mechanics can work on it.
However, I was at a local Garage the other day, and they had a rule of not working on cars made before the year 2000. I wonder how common that is...
Like it was meant to be...
It used to be 1996 as that was the year that OBD2 was in nearly every car or truck. Somehow lately they rounded up to 2000.
I have a mechanic who will work on my 3 OBD1 Toyotas and I'm extremely grateful.
- Thread starter
- #100
Good luck finding someone able to spell "carburetor", let alone work on one.
