Finally got a LC v2.0! (1 Viewer)

[IanB]

Where did you source the spare tire rod clips from? I need a set of those.
Also on the crush sleeve I did not need another one, but if you need to replace it you will need to remove the diff and set up the whole gear-set.

Clips I purchased from Partsouq as my regular parts guy is on hiatus.

As for the crush sleeve, the FSM shows it can be replaced and torqued to spec without removing the rear diff cover and messing with setting up the gearset. I made a PDF of the few pages that outline the procedure, looks a bit tedious, but within my capabilities. If I'm reading this wrong and you do need to go through the whole painting, tighten, inspect, etc procedure, then this is something I should probably have a pro address.

 

[IanB]

Got out wheeling yesterday with some friends, lots of hunting trails, playing on the rocks, some mud. It was a cool day, but nice to get outside before winter hits. It was a long day, I was up and gone before the family woke, and got back home around 9:30, wiped. Had a fire and some lunch on the trail, lots of laughs, lots of fun.

This was a couple hours NE of the city, almost into NW Ontario, Canadian Shield terrain. It's a lot like the Canadian Rockies (trees, rocks, water), with much smaller elevation changes, lol. Beautiful area, and I should really get out there more often. We found an old quarry which was really cool.

The trucks all did awesome, no damage incurred this time out! These are just a few my buddy sent me from his phone, another guy took some cool vids I'll post another day.

 

[IanB]

Got my other friend's pics from the weekend, so thought I'd share.

 

[Lumpskie]

Looks like a fun day and a beautiful area.

 

[GCRad1]

Hello IanB,

Love your rig! I've gone through your thread and you have an AWESOME RIG!!! I want to slide back and ask you about your sliders and the opening at the rear, why did you leave it open just on the back hoop?

Now that you've had them for a while, do you like the "bump out" that the rear hoop portion provides?

Reason I'm asking all this, I have a '92 so I am in the process of making sliders as no one seems to offer 91-92 sliders.

Got the truck back last night, sliders and rear bumper are all tacked up now, and look great! Once their all welded it's off to the powder coater! Getting close now!

 

[IanB]

Hello IanB,

Love your rig! I've gone through your thread and you have an AWESOME RIG!!! I want to slide back and ask you about your sliders and the opening at the rear, why did you leave it open just on the back hoop?

Now that you've had them for a while, do you like the "bump out" that the rear hoop portion provides?

Reason I'm asking all this, I have a '92 so I am in the process of making sliders as no one seems to offer 91-92 sliders.

Thanks, as for the sliders, the pic you've quoted was a test fit, the back opening has a filler plate on top same as the forward section, it just wasn't in place yet when that was taken. The bump out at the rear acts as a step for my daughter to get in/out as much as it provides additional protection, I can't say it's come into play wheeling yet, but I like the look and functionality it adds.

 

[IanB]

I'm trying to track down a "pop" sound that seems to be in the front end, and presents itself when momentum shifts at low speeds (braking/accelerating). I was thinking it could be the front DS slipjoint, so I pulled it off hoping to find some hardened grease in there, but no luck, it was all fresh and looked good in there. I switched it around so it is now out of phase hoping that would make a difference, and it did!

Much smoother running at high speeds, but did nothing to effect the problem I'm actually chasing. This was a high frequency vibration that I'd just accepted as normal for a 24 year old, lifted 4x4 truck, but it is much nicer at high speeds now!

Any ideas of others stuff I should be checking? I can't seem to replicate the "pop" from having someone jump on the sliders or front bumper to cycle the front suspension up and down, it only seems to do it while driving. I had a look at the front brakes, pulled a lot of mud out of there from the last wheeling trip, but no change. I'm going to recheck the nut tension on the shocks thinking the bushings may have settled/shrunk, but haven't gotten to it yet. Another thought is it could be the ICON castor correction bushings as they are poly rather than rubber?

 

[OGBeno]

Panhard rod bushings is my WAG.

 

[IanB]

Panhard rod bushings is my WAG.

Wild Ass Guess?

48706-60030 on both ends of the front panhard bar?

 

[OGBeno]

Yessir

 

[IanB]

Did some more searching on MUD, got back under the truck this morning to check panhard bushings and the mounting bracket for cracks, and to re-torque the radius arm bolts, and found the panhard looked fine but the radius arm bolts were loose on all 4 front bushings. I'm really hoping this was the issue, test drive to follow.

The ICON lift was installed in early May, I honestly can't remember if I used a torque wrench on these or just got them as tight as I could, torqued them all to 130ft/lbs now.

 

[OGBeno]

In all honesty, most all of the rubber suspension bushings are probably toast at this point 20+ years later after production.

I generally recommend replacing all of them on one fell swoop.

 

[IanB]

Test drive was about 170kms today, some highway, gravel, and some super bumpy frozen mud dirt track, even a little offroad playing around, no more "pops"!!! It drove like a dream today, it was so nice!

Replacing all the rubber bushings is a long term goal, but it's a ways down the list.

 

[oszkari]

So this showed up today...

View attachment 1532728

My takeaway from the Gturbo alternative thread is that nobody makes a good alternative to the Gturbo. Buy once, cry once. Got it on their August sale price, AUS $ is near par with ours currently, the time was right. This sweet keychain helped take some of the sting out of it as well. I don't think I've ever seen a green bladed Gturbo before either. Pretty fancy looking hardware! Shipping was fast too. Graeme is a wealth of knowledge, and despite being very busy was able to answer a bunch of technical questions for me.


Thanks!

Ian,

Did you install your Gturbo already? Did you manage to tune it?
What was the reason why you chose Grunter Extreme over the other Gturbo options?

Looks like my stock Turbo just died on me, so I'm looking for some reliable alternatives.

 

[IanB]

Ian,

Did you install your Gturbo already? Did you manage to tune it?
What was the reason why you chose Grunter Extreme over the other Gturbo options?

Looks like my stock Turbo just died on me, so I'm looking for some reliable alternatives.

It's still sitting on my workbench, I'll get to it come spring after the front axle rebuild goes down.

I don't plan on running huge psi, so the Grunter Extreme seemed to be a better fit for a daily driver/wheeling/towing vehicle where low rpm boost response is more important than trying to be fastest. Graeme advised the Grunter Extreme was technically safe to run up to 35psi (but not the best choice if that's your goal) so there's a lot of room to grow with this turbo, I had planned on setting it to 18-20psi when it gets installed, as I'm not using an intercooler.

I did get around to learning how to tune the pump this summer, and the truck drives the best it ever has with some changes to the boost compensator. I was able to change the fuel curve when boost comes on so it fuels much earlier, helping boost climb quicker and added a ton of low end and mid range, useable power. Changes to the setup when the Gturbo goes on will be to the main fuel screw to match the larger volume of air the Gturbo will push at the same psi, and some minor tweaking to the boost compensator to clean things up if necessary. Boost compensator is currently set up for 18psi, with some room before fuel cut comes into play.

If you need to brush up, there's days of solid info to read through here: The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread

Make sure you have a pre-turbo EGT and boost gauge before you attempt to tune anything on the injection pump. I use a manual boost controller to adjust boost level:Boost Controllers for the Nissan Patrol - 3 Bar Racing Inc. The wastegate on the Grunter Extreme is set to 18psi.

 

[oszkari]

I did the complete front axle job 2 months ago, I have got some extra parts left (OEM Toyota). If you are interested let me know.

I'm in the same boat...I don't want to run crazy psi, however I do like/want the truck to be responsive and be able to take over without hesitation.
I'm looking for a turbo that can safely run 20-23 psi under any condition. My cruiser is manual, no intercooler (coming), 3" exhaust, pre turbo EGT and boost gauges, manual boost controller.

I had some forced exposure to pump tuning since my IP was rebuilt 5 times in 7 months. I went though that Thread multiple times and I think now I understand enough so I can start with this process . There are still couple things that I cannot get my head around, perhaps you can help me out.

1. What setting makes the turbo kick in at lower vs higher RPMs?
I'm thinking that the off boost (smoke screw) is the responsible for it. More fuel more at lower RPMs, more exhaust gas hence Turbo kicks in sooner. Currently my turbo kicks in around 1300, 1400RPM depending on which gear I'm. I remember that was way higher before the IP rebuild and I still had a lot more power off boost and on boost, hence I'm confused here. I would think earlier spool should give more power but it is not the case.

2. How a boost compensator is affected by temperature/humidity/altitude?
I always thought that going to higher elevations (less air pressure and thinner air) will negatively affect the performance of a diesel engine, but what I'm experiencing is exactly the opposite of that. I went down to Calgary 2 times and noticed the same behaviour both occasions:

At 1170m elevation: 15 PSI ~2500 RPM 100km/h EGT 800-1000F, ok response time.
At 1050m elevation: 15 PSI ~2000 RPM 80km/h EGT 400-600F, even if boost ran up 19 PSI, EGT and speedometer didn’t follow.
Back to 1170m elevation: 15 PSI ~2500 RPM 100km/h EGT 800-1000F, ok response time

3. Before my IP rebuilt my biggest concern was to watch the EGT. Now my biggest concern is the boost. Boost runs up quickly to 20+ psi but EGT is lagging behind, never above 1000F even at the steepest hills. The star wheel is turned all the way in, so I cannot give more fuel from there. That's another thing that concerns me. I don't know what the stock setting is for the star wheel but I generally don't like things maxed out.

Thanks a lot!

 

[IanB]

I did the complete front axle job 2 months ago, I have got some extra parts left (OEM Toyota). If you are interested let me know.

I'm in the same boat...I don't want to run crazy psi, however I do like/want the truck to be responsive and be able to take over without hesitation.
I'm looking for a turbo that can safely run 20-23 psi under any condition. My cruiser is manual, no intercooler (coming), 3" exhaust, pre turbo EGT and boost gauges, manual boost controller.

I had some forced exposure to pump tuning since my IP was rebuilt 5 times in 7 months. I went though that Thread multiple times and I think now I understand enough so I can start with this process . There are still couple things that I cannot get my head around, perhaps you can help me out.

1. What setting makes the turbo kick in at lower vs higher RPMs?
I'm thinking that the off boost (smoke screw) is the responsible for it. More fuel more at lower RPMs, more exhaust gas hence Turbo kicks in sooner. Currently my turbo kicks in around 1300, 1400RPM depending on which gear I'm. I remember that was way higher before the IP rebuild and I still had a lot more power off boost and on boost, hence I'm confused here. I would think earlier spool should give more power but it is not the case.

2. How a boost compensator is affected by temperature/humidity/altitude?
I always thought that going to higher elevations (less air pressure and thinner air) will negatively affect the performance of a diesel engine, but what I'm experiencing is exactly the opposite of that. I went down to Calgary 2 times and noticed the same behaviour both occasions:

At 1170m elevation: 15 PSI ~2500 RPM 100km/h EGT 800-1000F, ok response time.
At 1050m elevation: 15 PSI ~2000 RPM 80km/h EGT 400-600F, even if boost ran up 19 PSI, EGT and speedometer didn’t follow.
Back to 1170m elevation: 15 PSI ~2500 RPM 100km/h EGT 800-1000F, ok response time

3. Before my IP rebuilt my biggest concern was to watch the EGT. Now my biggest concern is the boost. Boost runs up quickly to 20+ psi but EGT is lagging behind, never above 1000F even at the steepest hills. The star wheel is turned all the way in, so I cannot give more fuel from there. That's another thing that concerns me. I don't know what the stock setting is for the star wheel but I generally don't like things maxed out.

Thanks a lot!

Off boost fuelling is via smoke screw, it adjusts the aneroid pin's starting point, pin deeper into pump = more fuelling before boost comes on. Having extra fuel out of boost will help the turbo spool faster, and allow the engine to make decent power before boost comes on. Too much and you'll be smoky.

I live on the flats, so it's difficult for me to do a lot of data logging/testing with the effects of altitude. An NA engine would certainly suffer at higher altitudes due to the lower density of the air, turbo engines are able to overcome this as they can cram air in to overcome the thinner air.

I'm not sure I understand what you're trying to compare here with your elevation figures. You have a manual trans, so there's no torque convertor to muddy things, why are you comparing 2500rpm & 100km/h at high altitude to 2000rpm & 80km/h at lower altitude? The boost level is related to the load on the engine, throttle input, headwind, many different factors. To be able to compare you'd have to get stats at the same rpm, same gear, same speed.

If after the IP rebuild you're unable to achieve the same EGT's and performance is lagging, you likely need to increase the main fuel screw as it's been set lower than before the rebuild.

Adjusting the star wheel affects how quickly fuel ramps up as boost builds, it doesn't really affect max fuelling at all, just how quickly you get to max fuel as boost builds.

I hope this helps a bit, if you have more questions ask away.

 

[IanB]

On the weekend I was pulling a double skidoo trailer in some stiff wind, the salt shield on the trailer makes it feel like a parachute behind you even on calm days, but the truck was struggling, and boost was soaring beyond my wastegate setting and I had to control it with the gas pedal, making it very hard to achieve and maintain highway speed. Not a stress-free ride home after a long day of riding!

It was dark and very cold, so I limped it home and called it a day. I drove it to work Monday and it's fine in the city, but will boost beyond where I had my MBC set if you lay into it. I dug into it last night and found the hose off the turbine had blown off, so essentially the wastegate was wired shut in effect. Back to normal again, hose is now ziptied.

 

[baldilocks]

Out of curiosity, what are normal boost pressures? Your desired max boost? HP and torque? 1HDTxx I assume?

 

[Douglas S]

Out of curiosity, what are normal boost pressures? Your desired max boost? HP and torque? 1HDTxx I assume?

Stock is 10-12psi, safe limit on stock turbo is 15psi. HP and torque hard to say; factory is 165hp, 270ft-lb but that's easily increased.