Finally got a LC v2.0! (2 Viewers)

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Wow, that thing is BEAUTIFUL. It reminds me of the old CBRD BBK turbos for Evos. I can't wait to see what you think when it's installed! What boost level are you planning on running?

Planning on running it at 20psi while sans intercooler, getting it tuned, and taking the family on another big roadtrip this summer! Long term plans include a Wholesale Automatics valve body, and then an intercooler, in that order.

It really is pretty, lol.
 
Planning on running it at 20psi while sans intercooler, getting it tuned, and taking the family on another big roadtrip this summer! Long term plans include a Wholesale Automatics valve body, and then an intercooler, in that order.

It really is pretty, lol.

Which transmission do you have? With the Wholesale valvebody and the GTurbo, our rigs are going to be pretty similar! (Sounds like we might end up with intercoolers around the same time too. Hmmm... what intercooler are you looking at?)
 
Which transmission do you have? With the Wholesale valvebody and the GTurbo, our rigs are going to be pretty similar! (Sounds like we might end up with intercoolers around the same time too. Hmmm... what intercooler are you looking at?)

A442F (electronic version), I've got a trans temp gauge and it's never gotten hot since the gauge was installed, got up to about 200F last summer climbing on gravel at 50-60km/h in Olympia National Park, but it's got TC lockup in 3rd and 4th so if I can keep it over 85km/h the TC locks up and temp drops to the lowest end of the gauge. My understanding is 240F is getting "hot", so I've never been anywhere near there. As I've already got 3rd & 4th lockup from factory, the valve body would really just be a shift kit for firmer shifts as I understand it. If it doesn't get hot, can the extra power hurt the transmission?

With the OEM winch, I don't have much room up front. I'm thinking a top mount is in my future...but it's a ways off.
 
So the other day I noticed my rear pinion seal is leaking (again, just replaced in spring with new OEM and new stake nut), and I've got a front axle that needs a rebuild as well (birf soup). I'd come across a few posts suggesting the diff breather fitting in the axle could be plugged from years of neglect, and could be causing my issues. So last night I got under there and removed the fittings, both were clear, squirted some WD40 through them and now they're even clearer, so I can check that off my list of potential causes.

What would cause a rear pinion seal to fail 2X within a year, and I'm sure it was original prior to that.
 
So the other day I noticed my rear pinion seal is leaking (again, just replaced in spring with new OEM and new stake nut), and I've got a front axle that needs a rebuild as well (birf soup). I'd come across a few posts suggesting the diff breather fitting in the axle could be plugged from years of neglect, and could be causing my issues. So last night I got under there and removed the fittings, both were clear, squirted some WD40 through them and now they're even clearer, so I can check that off my list of potential causes.

What would cause a rear pinion seal to fail 2X within a year, and I'm sure it was original prior to that.


I would check the condition of your oil? I used valvoline synthetic gear oil when I replaced mine, no leak so far since of June 2016.
 
I would check the condition of your oil? I used valvoline synthetic gear oil when I replaced mine, no leak so far since of June 2016.

I'm using Shell Spirax synthetic gear oil, the condition of the rear is excellent, the front is contaminated with moly grease, and will get fresh gear oil when I do my front axle rebuild.
 
What would cause a rear pinion seal to fail 2X within a year, and I'm sure it was original prior to that.
If the pinion bearing is bad it could be wobbling and wearing out the seal prematurely. That's worst case scenario.
 
I checked the diff fluids tonight as I'm hitting the highway tomorrow, and with the truck on the ground, the fluid level was actually high, fluid was clean, but it spilled out when I removed the fill plug. The front was foamy and green from moly contamination, level was still nearly full, I added a bit.

Would having the rear diff level a bit high lead to a leaking pinion seal? I should brake clean it off and see if it continues to leak.
 
Did you replace the drive flange?
Often times the seal will wear a groove into the drive flange and you may need to replace it with the next seal.
 
Did you replace the drive flange?
Often times the seal will wear a groove into the drive flange and you may need to replace it with the next seal.

I replaced the drive flanges with manual hubs on the front, not seeing how that would be related to the axle leaking though.
 
I replaced the drive flanges with manual hubs on the front, not seeing how that would be related to the axle leaking though.
I posted that one when tired, I meant the diff pinion flange... My bad.
 
I posted that one when tired, I meant the diff pinion flange... My bad.

Ah, that makes more sense. No, replaced just the seal and stake nut on the rear pinion. I'll have to look into that I suppose, thanks for the heads up.
 
@Crab Sack It was 41204-60030 (FLANGE SUB-ASSY, REAR DRIVE PINION COMPANION, REAR) that you were suggesting could be worn and require replacement?

Screenshot (1).png


Would you need to set up the rear diff gears preload again after replacing this part and the seal? When we did the seal the 1st time, we set the new stake nut to the same as the old one had been, may have tightened up some play in the diff as it felt better afterwards, less slack in the driveline.
 
That is the flange I was talking about. It is possible to carefully re-torque and then re stake the nut in the same spot or just a hair tighter than the stake nut. You can always pull it apart first to see if you need the flange. Make sure you install the seal with a tool that goes around the entire seal so it doesn't cave inwards when you tap it in.
 
I just replaced my diff breathers and extended them with 1/4" inside diameter fuel hose. It was cheap insurance to make sure my axless didn't pressurize and blow out my seals. I would recommend new diff breathers as well since there is a spring loaded rubber seal inside them.
 
I just replaced my diff breathers and extended them with 1/4" inside diameter fuel hose. It was cheap insurance to make sure my axless didn't pressurize and blow out my seals. I would recommend new diff breathers as well since there is a spring loaded rubber seal inside them.

Diff breathers were new 8 months ago (front extended up the firewall), and I cleaned out the hose fittings in the axle this past week, they were clear.
 
@Crab Sack did you replace the crush sleeve when you did yours? I didn't and I'm thinking I could probably get away with it the 1st time, but it's not going to work the 2nd time without changing it. I did notice the slop in the drivetrain tighten up a bit when I replaced the seal the 1st time, but nothing I was worried about, it was an improvement actually.

I pulled the aneroid pin out of the truck again today, it had been a week or so with the starwheel cranked up about a turn and a half, the power surge that came on with the boost is tamed a bit, but still quite a bit better than before, smoke is cleaned right up during the day, even improved at night. Paint marks show I'm still getting right to the hard stop at the full pin depth, just in a more linear fashion as boost builds rather than all/now. EGT's are slightly slower to rise it seems, but that's just from casual observations. The weather has also turned, and it's 10-15 degrees celsius cooler than my earlier testing, so that could very well be what I'm seeing.

I'm leaving the fuelling here for the time being, and turning the boost down to 18psi until it's swapped out for the Gturbo.

IMG_3132[1].JPG
 
Took me a lot of searching to find the part # for the little plastic clips on the rear spare tire carrier that hold the locking pin in place, they both got brittle with age and broke within a week of each other. For anyone else looking, part # 90469-09003, cheap little bits but they were hard to track down.

IMG_3150[1].JPG
 
Where did you source the spare tire rod clips from? I need a set of those.
Also on the crush sleeve I did not need another one, but if you need to replace it you will need to remove the diff and set up the whole gear-set.
 

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