Sadie the 1994 80 Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[skw6r]

Hey everyone, figured I'd start a build thread to document all my mistakes. I bought this 94 FZJ80 back in August 2024 with 206k miles on her and a nice thick stack of maintenance records to go with. Now begins the struggle between responsibly baselining while also adding all the goodies. She will be primarily a Colorado trail/overlanding rig allowing my 5th gen 4Runner to be more of a daily driver now.

Here's how she looked when I got her

Below is a list of what's fixed, modded, and still needing to be fixed:

Mods from PO:
- Slee dual battery setup with IBS-DBS controller
- TJM bumper with XRC GEN 3 9500 Steel Winch
- Safari Snorkel
- iKamper 2 RTT

Mods from me:
- DeltaVS/ICON "Full Kit" - DONE
- Icon 2" smoothbody shocks
- Icon 3" dual rate springs
- Delta extended brakelines
- Delta rear bumpstop drops
- Delta front swaybar drop kit
- Delta radius arms w/ OEM bushings
- Delta rear panhard lift bracket
- Delta stainless rear spring retainers
- Dobinsons rear swaybar drop kit
- Dobinsons LSPV adjuster kit
- Nomad 502SB Arvo wheels in Satin 17x8.5 - DONE
- Toyo Open Country MTs 35/12.5/17 - DONE
- Dobinson adjustable rear UCAs - to be installed
- Lanktank LCAs - to be installed
- HuddExpo Starter Killswitch - to be installed
- WELLvisors window deflectors - to be installed when I find the hardware
- Midland MXT275 GMRS Radio + Antenna - DONE
- BH3D Double Cup Holder

PM/Fixes:
- Replace hood struts w/ OEM - DONE
- Replace front and rear swaybar links w/ Beck/Arnley - DONE
- Replace front and rear swaybar bushings w/ OEM - DONE
- Replace VAF that you f**ked up, then soldered back together but was malfunctioning afterwards - DONE
- Replace O2 Sensors - In progress
- Replace power steering high pressure hose w/ Rein aftermarket and low pressure w/ Autozone hose - In progress
- Replace power steering pump w/ OEM - In progress

Known Issues:
- Rust on gas lines - need inspected
- Oil level sensor small leak
- Rear hatch lock malfunctioning (only unlocks with key)
- Erratic heater, will use Erractic Heater Temp Control Fix - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/erractic-heater-temp-control-fix.784215/
- Intermittent AC problems, may be related to erratic heater
- Doors auto-lock quickly if drivers door isn't opened (not sure if this is a problem or just how the system naturally is)
- Broken front wheel stud
- Negative battery terminal on main battery is cracked


Lessons Learned
- Don't touch the dreaded screws on the VAF
- Check to see if the steering pump was already replaced by the PO before refreshing the power steering system

Regarding the DeltaVS/Icon "Full Kit" on a 94:
- Passenger side radius arm upper bolt will not come out without removing the exhaust cats. Given the rust on the exhaust flange, I decided to just cut the bolt out and install the new one in reverse
- Delta extended brake lines will not fit through the mounting brackets in the fronts, ended up drilling out larger holes in the brackets
- Delta rear panhard lift bracket requires relocating the ABS line on the rear driver

 

[skw6r]

Here's how she looks now

Well, technically here's how she looks right now:

Took her to Medicine Bow WY, started to do Libby Flats and the low pressure power steering line blew up, spraying ATF all over the engine bay.

I was able to use a Glue Tred tire repair patch to patch up the leak and get her home. Glad I always carry some extra ATF when offroading.

 

[skw6r]

I figured while replacing the low pressure power steering hoses, I might as well do the high pressure and a pump rebuild at the same time. I was following @gnob thread when I realized that some things on the pump weren't adding up. The O-rings were orange, and the oil seal did not match the oil seal in the rebuild kit. Turns out this is an aftermarket pump and it was just replaced by PO in June

Lesson learned: Check the POs maintenance records before replacing things. Decided to just order a new OEM PS pump rather than rebuilding an offbrand auto-zone pump.

 

[HighDesert Dawg]

Nice work! Nice choice in wheels too.

 

[skw6r]

Nice work! Nice choice in wheels too.

Thanks! It was between the nomads and the SSW raptors but I liked the retro look a bit more.

 

[skw6r]

Steering pump is still on the way but had some nice weather today and decided to to swap out the UCAs and LCAs as the old bushings were clunking around. Went with Dobinsons adjustable UCAs and Landtank LCA. Overall pretty easy install, I was a bit lazy and used a sawzall to cut out a few of the UCAs bolts.

Was starting to remove the sway bar mounts to swap out the bushings but broke a bolt off. Other half is still stuck inside. Will try a bolt extractor and see how it works. Any other tips?

 

[OffRoadScott]

I would definitely try and drill it out but I would fix soak it in some penetrating oil especially from the inside to clean up the threads that are still exposed. My reasoning is due to fear of breaking off the welded nut inside.

 

[HighDesert Dawg]

Thanks! It was between the nomads and the SSW raptors but I liked the retro look a bit more.

Exactly same reason I went with the Arvo too...has the reto look that goes well with our 80s and doesn't look out of pace like Fuels and other newer wheels.

 

[skw6r]

Well, think I might be f**ked here. Soaked in PB blaster overnight, got it nice and hot with a torch and tried to remove it. Thought it was starting to move and then snapped the bolt extractor right inside it. Not sure what to do next on this one. No way to reach it from above, nothing to grab on to below.

 

[ppc]

Yes, your are screwed. A drill isn't going to do anything because that easy-out is hardened streel. Grinding is difficult. Welding another nut through the center of the nut may be your only choice because of the location,

Normally if you get some movement then you tighten the bolt backup and retry. Each time you will get more movement.

 

[geo5]

I had a similar deal last weekend with a M8 weld nut and broken extractor- I was able to drill a couple small diameter holes next to the extractor and used a hammer and punch to knock the broken bit all the way through. Then I drilled out and re-tapped the hole for M10. Fortunately the weld nut stayed in place.

 

[Bigtoepfer]

- HuddExpo Starter Killswitch - to be installed
Known Issues
- Rear hatch lock malfunctioning (only unlocks with key)

Regarding the DeltaVS/Icon "Full Kit" on a 94:
- Passenger side radius arm upper bolt will not come out without removing the exhaust cats. Given the rust on the exhaust flange, I decided to just cut the bolt out and install the new one in reverse

What is the purpose of the Starter Killswitch? I only ask because I'm not familiar with it and wonder if its something I should be looking in to.

My rear hatch lock doesn't lock at all, only functions with the key for lock or unlock. I've opened it up and looked and can't really see why that is the case. Pretty low on my priority list, but something I want to tackle eventually.

The radius arm bolt can be removed and replaced I even did it with White Knuckle sliders on the vehicle, which means I had an extra skid plate under my cats. I put a jack on the cats and jacked them up as far as they would go to help get tension off of there. Because I sure as hell wasn't removing the slider and the cats. I was working to install Eimkeith RAM drop brackets.

I feel you on all the other 94 issues. Currently I have a PS pump that has a drip and I've been hesitant to even consider replacing/rebuilding it because I just know it's gonna be a pain in the butt.

I did change my reservoir because that is where most of my leak was coming from and replaced the suction and low pressure hose from the reservoir as well. It helped a lot but there is still a small drip from the pump itself. And it's occasionally a bit noisy when really working it on the trail.

 

[skw6r]

Been a little while since I've updated this build thread. In that time I've:
- Replaced the charcoal cannister with a duralast VC120 which has eliminated my boiling fuel issue during high altitude wheeling.
- Had a shop (ToyCrawlers in Broomfield) re-tap the rear sway bar bracket
- New O2 sensors and finally tracked down and fixed CEL 25 and 26, turned out to be the connection pins for the VAF needed a good cleaning
- Replaced PCV hoses and every visible vacuum hose (will replace the rest once I have the throttle body off)
- Installed @landtank high output alternator! My windows roll up way faster now, and I'm able to maintain and charge dual AGMs. Preparing for a fridge in the future

- Also did a little snow wheeling over memorial day

The biggest issue right now is my ******* AC. Going to look through the threads this weekend and see if anyone has had a similar issue. My AC only works if it's not too warm out. Below 70ish degrees outside? Ice cold AC. Above 75ish degrees? Zero AC. Sometimes if the AC is working from the start, even if the vehicle gets hot, it'll continue to work. Usually though it will die out over time. My idle jumps up, but there's zero difference between AC on and just ambient air.

 

[skw6r]

What is the purpose of the Starter Killswitch? I only ask because I'm not familiar with it and wonder if its something I should be looking in to.

My rear hatch lock doesn't lock at all, only functions with the key for lock or unlock. I've opened it up and looked and can't really see why that is the case. Pretty low on my priority list, but something I want to tackle eventually.

The radius arm bolt can be removed and replaced I even did it with White Knuckle sliders on the vehicle, which means I had an extra skid plate under my cats. I put a jack on the cats and jacked them up as far as they would go to help get tension off of there. Because I sure as hell wasn't removing the slider and the cats. I was working to install Eimkeith RAM drop brackets.

I feel you on all the other 94 issues. Currently I have a PS pump that has a drip and I've been hesitant to even consider replacing/rebuilding it because I just know it's gonna be a pain in the butt.

I did change my reservoir because that is where most of my leak was coming from and replaced the suction and low pressure hose from the reservoir as well. It helped a lot but there is still a small drip from the pump itself. And it's occasionally a bit noisy when really working it on the trail.

Killswitch is an added layer of protection. I don't always trust my doors to lock so in the event someone tries to steal it, I imagine between the time of setting off the alarm and trying to find the killswitch there will be enough time to get my, or someone else's, attention.

I didn't find replacing the PS pump to be too difficult. I went with a new OEM one from toyotapartsdeal. I'd say replacing the low pressure lines took longer than replacing the pump itself.

 

[Bigtoepfer]

I could see myself replacing the PS pump, rebuilding it is a whole other operation I'm not sure I'm ready for.