Builds Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread (29 Viewers)

[retrofive]

Hey @woody how do I monetize my build thread for ad revenue???

You make a link to the digi FSM apparently

 

[jcardona1]

Brakes on the truck have been sketchy for a while now so I'm finally addressing the braking system. Several years back I deleted ABS and LSPV and they worked fine but have slowly deteriorated over time and I have the infamous mushy pedal which just doesn't feel safe. I have a feeling the crappy Napa reman calipers are failing. Last year I replaced the MC with new Aisin unit which didn't help either. So I'm tearing everything out and starting fresh.

The biggest change will be upgrading to 5th gen 4Runner calipers and rotors. I still have a lot of work to do here, but I'll be sure to document everything in detail for those interested.

311mm vs 338mm

Installing a new Seiken booster as well. A lot of debate if these are OEM but I can tell you it has the exact same markings and labels as my OEM unit so...?? I'll also be installing a new MC with a bigger bore from the one-ton T100 pickups.

I'm also replacing many of the lines. Previously I had a super long soft line going from the frame all the way down to the caliper for the 3-link. I'm sure that much soft line doesn't help the pedal feel so I'm replacing with as much hard line as possible. Also converting to AN/SAE fittings below the frame. It's so much easier (and cheaper) to find fittings in any shape/size/color compared to 10mm inverted flare lines. Spent a lot of time on just this one wheel well but I'm happy with the result.

These zip tie tabs are great to have (Trail Gear)

The 4Runner calipers use a hard line with the typical Toyota 10mm inverted flare fitting. Having a hard line at the caliper sucks for obvious reasons so I'm running a 10mm banjo fitting instead. The port is at a weird angle so to avoid interference with my coilovers at full lock, I found these trick 10mm 35º angled banjo fittings which convert to -3AN fittings.

Lots more to come!

 

[FZJ80 in KC]

Brakes on the truck have been sketchy for a while now so I'm finally addressing the braking system. Several years back I deleted ABS and LSPV and they worked fine but have slowly deteriorated over time and I have the infamous mushy pedal which just doesn't feel safe. I have a feeling the crappy Napa reman calipers are failing. Last year I replaced the MC with new Aisin unit which didn't help either. So I'm tearing everything out and starting fresh.

The biggest change will be upgrading to 5th gen 4Runner calipers and rotors. I still have a lot of work to do here, but I'll be sure to document everything in detail for those interested.

311mm vs 338mm

Installing a new Seiken booster as well. A lot of debate if these are OEM but I can tell you it has the exact same markings and labels as my OEM unit so...?? I'll also be installing a new MC with a bigger bore from the one-ton T100 pickups.

I'm also replacing many of the lines. Previously I had a super long soft line going from the frame all the way down to the caliper for the 3-link. I'm sure that much soft line doesn't help the pedal feel so I'm replacing with as much hard line as possible. Also converting to AN/SAE fittings below the frame. It's so much easier (and cheaper) to find fittings in any shape/size/color compared to 10mm inverted flare lines. Spent a lot of time on just this one wheel well but I'm happy with the result.

These zip tie tabs are great to have (Trail Gear)

The 4Runner calipers use a hard line with the typical Toyota 10mm inverted flare fitting. Having a hard line at the caliper sucks for obvious reasons so I'm running a 10mm banjo fitting instead. The port is at a weird angle so to avoid interference with my coilovers at full lock, I found these trick 10mm 35º angled banjo fittings which convert to -3AN fittings.

Lots more to come!

4 of us out here in KS deleted our ABS systems and couldn't for the life of us get away from mushy pedal. The upgraded MC was the trick that resolved it for all 4 of us. @2fpower , did we got to the aisin tundra MCs?

 

[Broski]

Brakes on the truck have been sketchy for a while now so I'm finally addressing the braking system. Several years back I deleted ABS and LSPV and they worked fine but have slowly deteriorated over time and I have the infamous mushy pedal which just doesn't feel safe. I have a feeling the crappy Napa reman calipers are failing. Last year I replaced the MC with new Aisin unit which didn't help either. So I'm tearing everything out and starting fresh.

The biggest change will be upgrading to 5th gen 4Runner calipers and rotors. I still have a lot of work to do here, but I'll be sure to document everything in detail for those interested.

311mm vs 338mm

Installing a new Seiken booster as well. A lot of debate if these are OEM but I can tell you it has the exact same markings and labels as my OEM unit so...?? I'll also be installing a new MC with a bigger bore from the one-ton T100 pickups.

I'm also replacing many of the lines. Previously I had a super long soft line going from the frame all the way down to the caliper for the 3-link. I'm sure that much soft line doesn't help the pedal feel so I'm replacing with as much hard line as possible. Also converting to AN/SAE fittings below the frame. It's so much easier (and cheaper) to find fittings in any shape/size/color compared to 10mm inverted flare lines. Spent a lot of time on just this one wheel well but I'm happy with the result.

These zip tie tabs are great to have (Trail Gear)

The 4Runner calipers use a hard line with the typical Toyota 10mm inverted flare fitting. Having a hard line at the caliper sucks for obvious reasons so I'm running a 10mm banjo fitting instead. The port is at a weird angle so to avoid interference with my coilovers at full lock, I found these trick 10mm 35º angled banjo fittings which convert to -3AN fittings.

Lots more to come!

Look clean,nice work!!

 

[jcardona1]

4 of us out here in KS deleted our ABS systems and couldn't for the life of us get away from mushy pedal. The upgraded MC was the trick that resolved it for all 4 of us. @2fpower , did we got to the aisin tundra MCs?

That's interesting. I thought the early Tundra MCs had a smaller bore than the 1" of the FJ80? From what I've read the T100 has the biggest bore available that is an easy bolt for our trucks 1 1/16".

Look clean,nice work!!

Thanks!

 

[2fpower]

Correct it was the T100 1 1/16. . If you did the abs delete, we have had to do this to all those rigs for some reason.

ADVICS BMT139 sometimes hard to find, but solved our issues.

Seiken 650-71450 is the booster that might be OEM -- might not. the arguement goes on...... but it seems to work great and look identical.

 

[jcardona1]

Correct it was the T100 1 1/16. . If you did the abs delete, we have had to do this to all those rigs for some reason.

ADVICS BMT139 sometimes hard to find, but solved our issues.

Seiken 650-71450 is the booster that might be OEM -- might not. the arguement goes on...... but it seems to work great and look identical.

Thanks! That's the same BMT139 MC I ordered.

And a great deal on the Seiken booster: 80 Series, NEW OEM Seiken Brake Booster and OEM Gaskets (2), 44610-60792 - http://www.cruiseryard.com/80-series-new-oem-seiken-brake-booster-and-oem-gasket/

 

[FZJ80 in KC]

Correct it was the T100 1 1/16. . If you did the abs delete, we have had to do this to all those rigs for some reason.

ADVICS BMT139 sometimes hard to find, but solved our issues.

Seiken 650-71450 is the booster that might be OEM -- might not. the arguement goes on...... but it seems to work great and look identical.

Thanks Kelly! Knew you'd know for sure!

 

[jtwopark]

Jose, you need some of these!

 

[jtwopark]

These will lock up my 37s with no problems

 

[jcardona1]

Correct it was the T100 1 1/16. . If you did the abs delete, we have had to do this to all those rigs for some reason.

ADVICS BMT139 sometimes hard to find, but solved our issues.

Seiken 650-71450 is the booster that might be OEM -- might not. the arguement goes on...... but it seems to work great and look identical.

Question for you - how are you hooking up the T100 MC? On the FZJ80 w/ ABS, rear port goes to front brakes, front port goes to rear brakes.

What's the setup for the T100 non-ABS master? I know the longer piston stroke should go to the front brakes but they both look equally spaced on this MC.

Jose, you need some of these!

Who makes those? Those are definitely sexy but they don't look cheap!

 

[2fpower]

Question for you - how are you hooking up the T100 MC? On the FZJ80 w/ ABS, rear port goes to front brakes, front port goes to rear brakes.

What's the setup for the T100 non-ABS master? I know the longer piston stroke should go to the front brakes but they both look equally spaced on this MC.

We have done it both ways, and we could not tell a difference. I do add the proportioning valve on the rear circuit of course.

THinking outside the box. You could bench bleed the master and put short hoses on the front and back into jars and pump 10 times and see which one fills up more.....

You can lock up all four really easy with that master.

 

[GW Nugget]

NICE! Did the caliper directly bolt up or did you have to do any machining on any of the project?

 

[on the rocks]

I know they are not super common but surprised no one here has a 1 ton T100 to verify the factory routing off the MC. I have the 1 1/16 T100 MC but waiting to verify this and really don’t feel I need it.
I think you will be happy with the 4Runner calipers. I took it a bit further with 6 pistons and the 14” rotors but that strangely don’t use the entire surface of the rotor even tho specked for 14’s. I can stop amazingly fast without even trying now where before it felt like too much effort was needed to get her stopped.
Nice work.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I recently added the T100 MC and went with how it was labeled. F for front and R for rear. Much better now after previous ABS delete. I first attempted to add the proper 80 series non ABS with disc brakes. Made the brakes worse so then went to the T100.

 

[jtwopark]

Question for you - how are you hooking up the T100 MC? On the FZJ80 w/ ABS, rear port goes to front brakes, front port goes to rear brakes.

What's the setup for the T100 non-ABS master? I know the longer piston stroke should go to the front brakes but they both look equally spaced on this MC.



Who makes those? Those are definitely sexy but they don't look cheap!

They weren’t cheap! But if you need a set, I know where to get them made!

 

[jcardona1]

NICE! Did the caliper directly bolt up or did you have to do any machining on any of the project?

Yup, the calipers will bolt right up to the 80 knuckles. I did have to do a tiny bit of clearancing on the back side of the steering stop to clear the caliper though. The other trick is getting the caliper spaced correctly over the rotor, this is what I'm still working on. Currently using these machined spacers as I figure things out:

I know they are not super common but surprised no one here has a 1 ton T100 to verify the factory routing off the MC. I have the 1 1/16 T100 MC but waiting to verify this and really don’t feel I need it.
I think you will be happy with the 4Runner calipers. I took it a bit further with 6 pistons and the 14” rotors but that strangely don’t use the entire surface of the rotor even tho specked for 14’s. I can stop amazingly fast without even trying now where before it felt like too much effort was needed to get her stopped.
Nice work.

I recently added the T100 MC and went with how it was labeled. F for front and R for rear. Much better now after previous ABS delete. I first attempted to add the proper 80 series non ABS with disc brakes. Made the brakes worse so then went to the T100.

Think I figured it out. Was able to locate a parts diagram for a 1995 1-ton T100 with and without ABS. Similar to the 80 series, there are front/rear differences in the master cylinder depending on ABS or non-ABS setups.

If using a non-ABS master cylinder (like the Aisin/Advics BMT-139), then front port goes to front brakes. Rear port goes to rear brakes as seen in the diagram:

Here is a T100 with ABS. You'll notice the front port is now for the rear brakes and the rear port goes to the front brakes, just like an FZJ80 w/ ABS:

 

[Box Rocket]

Thanks for documenting this Jose! I'll eventually make the jump to big brakes and this will be very helpful.

 

[GW Nugget]

Great job, pretty close to a bolt up system then. All others Ive seen so far needed machining.

 

[spyduh]

I see a big brake upgrade in my future