Builds Do I have your attention.... I call it VERA. (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Spent last night opening the harness up and pulling out the ABS and airbag stuff. Ended up being a good chunk of wires.
1895022


Now I’m trying to figure out what other wiring is extra that I can pull out. As I was doing the SRS system, I found two wires going to these “junction blocks” in the center area. I traced this back on the wiring diagram and it is wiring going to the seatbelt warning light system - if that matters. Anyway, the little cap plugs that go into them basically connect the wires, so I think this is some sort of junction that Toyota uses instead of splicing and soldering wires. I know I could save some space by getting rid of this, but I don’t really see it adding a lot of value. I can likely pull the wires for the A/C system as going to likely use the Hurricane system, but will wait until I have that in hand. Not sure what else that I can pull out. This car did not have power windows or locks, so not many extra wires.

So for interiror work, wiring, my next goal is to mount the steering column and pedals. I assume I use a standard pedal setup and cut out the clutch pedal????

1895020
1895021
 
Last edited:
Just to get a break from wiring hell, @Tank5 shipped me the radiator, this thing is a work of art. It is a Ron Davis two core fj40 radiator with the transmission cooler in the bottom. To be honest, I expected something larger, so I have concerns about it cooling enough for this V-8. Guess we’ll go with that for now, and deal with it if there’s issues I’m going to add a digital temperature gage, so will keep an eye on it
B9782B90-A09E-4FF8-BA42-B30811FE6DD1.jpeg
FE2DE3E8-BCAF-41FD-9396-596D5C1CA5F7.jpeg
CA5442D7-F02A-4865-8FD9-9DD337797DE6.jpeg
 
After I started it, saw fluid coming from end of tranny. Is it normal for tranny fluid to come out of center of output shaft? I thought transfer case used heavy weight oil. View attachment 1891113

And Second question for the day, where would I find the mating end for this in stainless steel? My plan is to weld the catalytic converter’s back in about where they were then start bringing them back with 304 stainless mandrel bent pipeView attachment 1891128View attachment 1891129
Universal Stainless Steel exhaust flange 2 inch for muffler and resonator | eBay
 
Just to get a break from wiring hell, @Tank5 shipped me the radiator, this thing is a work of art. It is a Ron Davis two core fj40 radiator with the transmission cooler in the bottom. To be honest, I expected something larger, so I have concerns about it cooling enough for this V-8. Guess we’ll go with that for now, and deal with it if there’s issues I’m going to add a digital temperature gage, so will keep an eye on it View attachment 1895026View attachment 1895027View attachment 1895028
I would be concerned with only 2 cores as well. Champion makes 3 and 4 cores for a reasonable price. I think @darwink1 uses a 3 core with his Ls swap.
 
I have a champion 3 core here if we need to work something out. Dunno if it has trans cooler or not, haven't pulled it out of the box. Not really wanting to go down to a 2 core but I might not need the capacity. And the hurricane system is here when you want to test fit . Hurricane makes 2 styles of hose routing depending on firewall clearance. Straight thru back or side exit. Back exit would dump into engine bay, side goes towards pass feet.
 
I have a champion 3 core here if we need to work something out. Dunno if it has trans cooler or not, haven't pulled it out of the box. Not really wanting to go down to a 2 core but I might not need the capacity. And the hurricane system is here when you want to test fit . Hurricane makes 2 styles of hose routing depending on firewall clearance. Straight thru back or side exit. Back exit would dump into engine bay, side goes towards pass feet.
For now, I plan to use this radiator. If there is an issue, we will make changes.

As to the Hurricane system, I feel that there is plenty of room between firewall and engine, so back would likely be cleaner and out of the way.
 
Well, did not have time to work on it, but the ups dude brought a bunch of boxes. Used air sensor from ebay....

1897869


Oxygen sensor mounts (rear)
1897870


Since the stock airbox did not come with the car, and it likely would not fit very well in the FJ45 fender, I switched to an aftermarket intake, much like @UZJ40 put in. most I found were plastic/abs, this one is aluminum, so if I need to cut/turn it I could.
1897871

Fuel filter for 100 series, should mount up with the lines I bought from junkyard.
1897872


and some new rear oxygen sensors.
1897873


I ordered a box of stainless mandrel bends yesterday, so I can start playing with the exhaust.
 
Last edited:
More packages in the mail.... I found a guy parting out a tundra on craigslist, and he was willing to box things up and ship them to me!!!
1899669
1899670
1899671


Also got some V band clamps for the exhaust
1899668
 
Started working on getting the brake pedals mounted and figuring out where to mount the steering column. I found I could easily cut off the clutch pedal section. Please recall that this cab is a right hand drive cab from central America, so @Tank5 had already cut out the section to mount the brake booster from a late model 40 on the left side. He also had only tacked in the left hand drive dash, so I zipped it out to do this work. Hope to get the steering column tacked in tomorrow. Question for the day is given all the room behind the engine, should I get rid of some of the hump, to give more room in the dash area?
1900908
1900909


It appears that this will go in very smoothly and give plenty of room for the steering column. This picture made me think about sandblasting under the dash here, and epoxy priming it before welding the dash back on. Almost impossible to do later.
1900910
 
Last edited:
I would say yes to removing some of the hump if the engine is that far forward. But, part of that depends on what kind of heating/ac system you will be running.
 
Realized I should go ahead and weld up the holes I don’t want in this section while it can be put on the bench, so did that then tacked in the wall section
1901849
1901850
1901851
 
What are u going to do for a rib in the firewall. Reuse the old one?

I will put a late model bent one in.

I did find a master and booster from a T100 yesterday in the junkyard, that should work perfect.
 
Worked on where the steering wheel should be. Decided I needed to put the seats in to get this all figured out......
1902893
1902894


The seats come out of a three series BMW convertible, so is the integrated seatbelt
1902895
 
Consider suspending the V-band clamp from the exhaust hangers, if or when you have to drop the exhaust to access anything its super easy and you don't put any wear on rubber isolator pulling exhaust hangers out of the rubber.
 
Been busy doing other projects, but had some time to get the seed moved up and start looking at the steering wheel position. The seats are out of a BMW convertible, and have the integrated seatbelts, so I don’t need to make a hoop or roll cage for the third point.

My concern is, at 6‘2“, I’m going to need a lot more room.... I was planning on only adding 4 inches to the cab, but that’s how much I need right now, and I don’t have legroom for pedals.

Has anyone ever chopped the foot area and pushed it forward toward the engine???

Looking at these pictures again, it’s appears that the seat is leaning back quite a bit..... I will have to try to find BMW wiring diagrams to get these hooked up to power.
1912972
1912973
 
Last edited:
I went up to get legroom, and raised the steering wheel as well.
 
Well, the seat wiring wasn’t too hard to figure out, brown the ground red to power and suddenly everything works!!!

Still not enough room.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom