Builds Do I have your attention.... I call it VERA. (1 Viewer)

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Not much done last night, I did buy a pulley at tractor supply to be able to try to straighten out the power steering line, worked pretty good. Here’s the line before I started working on it. Recall that original 4runner would have rack and pinion behind the wheel where I’m using the 80 series steering box mounted on the frame driver-side:
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I also use the harbor freight line bending to tweak some areas, I may have exceeded its usefulness....,
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With that, plenty of length to get over and screw into the steering box, then put a temporary return line in
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Then Mounted a temporary battery tray
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Oh, found this on amazon. 12" extension for Oxygen sensors


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Well, I was trying to get Vera's 4.7 running before the metal shop had my camping trailer box welded up....

Looks like these projects will be fighting for room and my time in the shop.

2fpower's going to build a camping trailer

4' wide 3' tall and about 6' long. all 3/16 aluminum.

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I sure would like to see the engine/dash wiring diagrams AND the images of what is what in the engine bay...

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you! I've been home sick and my modem died...

I wouldn't mind loaning you the FSMs.
 
Made some progress last night, found some cool fuel quick fittings from and not sure why didn’t think about it before but use my cable tracker to chase down wires.
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This is the bundle of wires that plugs into the center of the dash that has the hazard lights cargo lights air-conditioning, and other things
Got most of those wires traced
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Today I ran to the junkyard and was able to get fuel lines from a Sequoia and vapor canister from a 4runner along with a jack and a alternator cable harness. All for US$23. Not bad couple hours at the junkyard
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Well, today decided to get things buttoned up, first was the alternator, second was fuel line. Was able to use the harness I got from the 4runner at the junkyard and switch out the plugs. DONE. Fuel line was not as good, as I couldn’t get anything to work with the parts I got..... so, jumped in the truck and ran to the junkyard was an hour and 10 minutes before they closed. Was able to pull more fuel lines and fittings, took them home and finally got it together
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This is using a fuel line from the tank to the filter much like a sequoia has
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Thanks go out to @tornadoalleycruiser for encouraging me throughout this process. Also need to give thanks to proper lubrication—beer!!! Unfortunately I entered the gluten-free world many years back, so this is my new favorite beer...
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Then this happened...

 
Then this happened
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After I started it, saw fluid coming from end of tranny. Is it normal for tranny fluid to come out of center of output shaft? I thought transfer case used heavy weight oil.
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And Second question for the day, where would I find the mating end for this in stainless steel? My plan is to weld the catalytic converter’s back in about where they were then start bringing them back with 304 stainless mandrel bent pipe
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After I started it, saw fluid coming from end of tranny. Is it normal for tranny fluid to come out of center of output shaft? I thought transfer case used heavy weight oil. View attachment 1891113

And Second question for the day, where would I find the mating end for this in stainless steel? My plan is to weld the catalytic converter’s back in about where they were then start bringing them back with 304 stainless mandrel bent pipeView attachment 1891128View attachment 1891129
When I was doing the exhaust on my 80 series I found universal 2 bolt flanges on Ebay. Used a whole bunch of them at strategic areas of the exhaust to remove sections easily for service work. U may want to consider headers and hi flow cats to increase efficiency/power. The stock exhaust manifolds are known for developing cracks.
 
When I was doing the exhaust on my 80 series I found universal 2 bolt flanges on Ebay. Used a whole bunch of them at strategic areas of the exhaust to remove sections easily for service work. U may want to consider headers and hi flow cats to increase efficiency/power. The stock exhaust manifolds are known for developing cracks.
I found these on ebay, but are not stainless.

Straight Round Cut Exhaust Flange Pipe Replacement Kit 2'' ID | eBay

just saw these... maybe these will work. will email to see spacing of holes.

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My daughter Anna and I spent some time last night working through testing the wiring harness. All turn, stop, reverse, headlight park lights work fine. Looks like it has fog lights also, and @Tank5 confirmed that there is a separate switch to left of column, so will need to track that down. Also ordered a dimmer switch on ebay, the ones I found at the junkyard were not correct.

Question for the day is how does a hazard light switch on a toyota work? I need to track down the wires, which appear to be coming to the center cluster with a/c, bed light, etc. I would like to put in a simple switch to run hazards instead of using the tundra thing, so need to figure out how to do this and what kind of switch I need. @Coolerman - your my go to guy for Toyota wiring. Thoughts?

Here is what the integrated cluster looks like... that I don't have by the way..... two big wiring harnesses plug into it.

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OK, for anyone ever doing this again, the hazard is very easy pin 17 green with red stripe, when you ground it out the hazards go on.
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Fog lights took a little bit more thinking, first off realized that the fog relay was missing. It is on the top right side - red. Stole one from an 80 harness.
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Then the original design is that the fog lights would only work when the headlights were on -- it appeared in the wiring harness, so I just isolated the wire -- green with red stripe -- near the dimmer circuit. When I put power to it, you hear the relay click, and we have fog lights. I will connect it to a switched hot power and that is done.

I also tested the rear cargo light circuit, and that works fine.

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