Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (4 Viewers)

[cruisermatt]

Other plans while dash/interior/drivetrain is apart:
-fix firewall where I butchered it for 81-84 clutch master holes (weld up and replace with proper +85 bolt pattern, and replace pedal bucket with matching version)
-install my Wilwood 7/8 clutch MC kit
-weld up Firewall hole on passenger side where FJ62 EFI wiring original went through (currently have gigantic billet bulkhead I don’t like anymore)
-convert AC evaporator holes to 81-85 sizes so I can use still-available Toyota grommets
-go through AC ducting and make sure everything is all proper there, I get some weird lack of flow through some ducts and I think I have one loose or something
-tachometer (MIGHT do speedhut gauges. Haven’t decided).
-replace non-op oil pressure and oil temp gauges with wideband and boost gauges.
-might wire an mini-amp in.
-shorten Tuffy center console about 2” and install a light inside
-probably about a dozen other minor wiring repairs from before I knew what I was doing.
-find permanent fix for NP203 snap ring issue (not sure what I am going to do here yet)
-install my splitcase VSS kit I make so I can lose the wire going to rear axle
-I am CONSIDERING adding oil coolers and fluid pumps for the NP203 and transfer case. My plan is to put GM temp sensors in both and make extension harnesses up to the engine bay so I can use my scan gauge off my CTS to do some testing before I commit to this project.
I’ve been wanting to ditch the NP203 for awhile now but if I can get it to run cool, not leak and not wear out every 20k I will re consider

 

[cruisermatt]

More things I would like to do in the very near future since this is just a Matt ramble at this point.
-delete my extended breathers going into engine bay and just run regular Toyota axle breathers up to frame (I have some new 80 front breather assemblies to do this, the longest ones for the money I have found). No more swamping trucks for me.
-Add atmosphere vented catch can and delete PCV
-possibly switch to 12AN turbo drain if catch can doesn't fix my smoke on decel issue


Longer term:
-New radiator (with same-side outlets)
-Install an intercooler at same time as that
-Switch to +09 water pump with shorter upper fitting
-install Riverdale valve springs and BTR cam I have
-completely re-do fuel system, make a return line, add a boost reference regulator, bigger pump, injectors etc.
I think my plan is to re-do the OS on the 0411 and get it tuned and see how it like it since it is already all wired up and running but long term I would like to go standalone (leaning towards MaxxECU), I just have way too many other projects right now to justify that one

-replace front main leaves
-replace steering arms, links, and heims (have almost everything for this)
-re-do rear upper shock mounts to raise mounting point up about 3".

 

[thatcabledude]

Truck Norris cam or something else?

 

[cruisermatt]

Truck Norris cam or something else?

I'd have to look and see what it is. I can't remember, I think it's just their "stage 1 truck cam" or whatever.

 

[cruisermatt]

Considering the vast majortity of the build is 7 years old now and many of the choices I made or parts I used were based on extreme budget.. add trail fixes, experiments etc on top of that and these days it is flat out embarassing to open the hood for customers or at events. So overall I really want to bring this truck up-to-date on the mechanical/plumbing/wiring side of things and get it back into its "prime"

 

[Idaho Savage]

Love the idea of the shifters being in driver's side.

 

[cruisermatt]

*taps mic* is this thing on..

minor change of plans.

I recently bought an LX450 project (just what I needed) to spiff up and eventually sell and it came with this, and I won’t be using it in the LX

This should be a nice upgrade for my setup. I just need to change the input from 29 spline to 23 spline to work with the TR4050.
It also came with the monster oil pump that’s like $500.

this HF2Av transfer case is actually going in my LX, so I need to get another, I want a 91/92 HF2A without the VC if anyone has one kicking around.

I’m thinking part time kit and maybe the 3.1 low gear kit, and run the CDL motor off the 62 H4 switch and go from triple sticks to twin sticks, the LX also came with a brand new NWF twin cable shifter setup too.

Also anyone want to buy a NP203 doubler/ splitcase and shifters?

 

[cruisermatt]

Ratio Rambling.

Current:
Nv4500 1st: 5.61:1
Np203 Low: 2:1
Splitcase low: 2.27:1
Axles: 4.10
Total 1st gear double low: 104.4

Actually pretty content with this crawl ratio for what I do but would be nice to have more options around 70-80ish:1 low for typical Tennessee wheeling.

Eventually?
Tr4050 1st: 6.16:1
Blackbox low: 2.72:1
HF2a stock low: 2.49:1
Axle 4.11:1
Total 1st double low: 171:1.
Pretty useless most of the time, more importantly that 1st gear /2.72 low= 67:1,
Or if I do the 3:1 transfer gear, 78:1
Basically a way more linear range of options

213:1 low would be a fun party trick.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

With the doubler you won't want lower tcase gears, trust me. You'll have the power to move the tires without it.

 

[cruisermatt]

With the doubler you won't want lower tcase gears, trust me. You'll have the power to move the tires without it.

I’ll need to take the transfer apart and separate the low gear for a part-time kit regardless, and the 80 crawler gears are pretty inexpensive. Especially with my discount.
Perks of the job.

My thought is I would mostly only use the 3.1 transfer case low at places like Windrock, and not really use the doubler unless it was super dry or when i go out west. With the setup I have now I feel it’s either too low or not low enough even with using different transmission gears since the 1/2 split is so big

 

[EWheeler]

No consideration for an auto trans?

I had a 203/splitcase combo I sold a couple years ago and kick myself. After wheeling my crawler, I really want a doubler so I can have some "faster" low gearing. I think the 203/splitcase is pretty ideal setup ratio wise behind an auto, 2:1 or 4.5:1. I have th350/4.3 atlas and its perfect for crawling, but too low in between trails and high is too fast and trans heats up even with a massive dedicated cooler & fan. If money was no object, a 4 spd atlas with 2.7 doubler and 2.0 in the t-case would be on order.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That's what I was thinking too ^^^^. Ratios, not auto trans, ewwww

When I had lower tcase gears, it was too slow to stay in low between obstacles, but high was too fast. A 2:1ish tcase low range is pretty ideal for between tough parts of a trail.

Even if there's a discount, I wouldn't spend it. Don't want to be in high transmission gears in double low either if you can avoid it.

 

[EWheeler]

not auto trans, ewwww

I must be getting old! Automagic rocks in the rocks out west. I still have a manual trans wheeler…..but it never gets used.

 

[cruisermatt]

I’d love to do an auto in this truck, it would be so much better then the manual with the turbo V8.

few issues though, main being the only autos I’d do would be 8HP or 6l80, which both have a lot of reasons why they would be TON of work and money that I’d rather put into other vehicles
I really want to do the 8HP but i just don’t want that project annd cost any time soon.

Also remember my current NV4500 is broken so I need to do something.

@EWheeler shoot me an offer on my 203/splitcase setup if you want it. If you go back a few years you can see where I modded the heck out of the adapter to make that bulletproof

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Why only early 80 cases? 100 cases don't have the VC either, have a less damage prone actuator, and the guts are quieter (only matters for awd).

Auto for the win, but I get the install obstacles.

 

[cruisermatt]

Why only early 80 cases? 100 cases don't have the VC either and have a less damage prone actuator.

I’d be fine with an early 100 case as well. I was thinking of using the 100 actuator regardless since they’re available new.

The later 100 cases need an idler gear if I wanted to re gear it.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

I’d be fine with an early 100 case as well. I was thinking of using the 100 actuator regardless since they’re available new.

The later 100 cases need an idler gear if I wanted to re gear it.

You want the idler anyway if you regear. Those decoupled pitch circles of the earlier sets are poorly done.

 

[matzell]

Matt, If I can remember where I put them when I moved, I think I have a 23 spline input. I swapped it out for a 32