Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (3 Viewers)

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I thought yesterday was the day? Come on Matt get it together!
 
Hey matt, another thing I did on my SOA was drill out the spring mounts on the axles and ubolt brackets 1.5" offset to the rear on the front axle and drill the rear axle 1.5" to the front. Stretching my total wheelbase by 3" Doesn't seem like much but helps alot with approach and departure angles. Its unfortunate you will have to rethink your drive shafts.
 
cruisedeisel said:
Hey matt, another thing I did on my SOA was drill out the spring mounts on the axles and ubolt brackets 1.5" offset to the rear on the front axle and drill the rear axle 1.5" to the front. Stretching my total wheelbase by 3" Doesn't seem like much but helps alot with approach and departure angles. Its unfortunate you will have to rethink your drive shafts.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking about WB stretch but I don't want to cut my fenders...

Ill be redoing the driveshafts to get DC in the rear and to account for the extra length so no worries there.
 
So I've been waiting to put these on for awhile...

:grinpimp: one step closer to world-market spec, next step is clear turn signals and side marker lights!

image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
@reevesci brought in a couple sets from Germany (?) I think?

I think @MANUCHAO has a set.
 
Love your rig.

SOA is one one of those compromises that the 60 platform forces people to do.

You like 60s cuz they're beautiful, you don't want to trim sheetmetal of your beautiful 60 but you still want the look of big ass tires and some people also probably like the monster truck thing.

Cool truck I don't think you should cut it either but maybe ask why you really need 35s over 33s? You're gonna break more axles, higher COG, expensive with gears and tires...
 
90FJ said:
Love your rig.

SOA is one one of those compromises that the 60 platform forces people to do.

You like 60s cuz they're beautiful, you don't want to trim sheetmetal of your beautiful 60 but you still want the look of big ass tires and some people also probably like the monster truck thing.

Cool truck I don't think you should cut it either but maybe ask why you really need 35s over 33s? You're gonna break more axles, higher COG, expensive with gears and tires...
Click to expand...

I really don't like the monster truck thing... And if my truck wasn't so nice I would replicate your 37's/no lift on a heartbeat. No offense but I think you understand. I also plan to keep this thing forever. I really want to wheel it hard but not roll it etc.

I really think I can SOA this thing and it not be huge. I just want more ground clearance and SOME uptravel. Currently have zero.

Also I'm going to go to either 80 wheels or a wheel with the same backspace(4.5", currently have 5.5") so I'll be 80 width all around. That should help.
 
45 pages and it's still on worn out springs??? By the time it's done, you'll have 200 pages! LOL.

Just a word of caution and I realize you are not looking for advice. But...No way around the fact that a spring over 60 is a MONSTER truck. I tried to keep mine down and it is still the size of lifted bro trucks. It's almost embarrassing to drive because everyone looks at you funny. The only time it looks right is on difficult bouldery trails like the Rubicon. Then all of a sudden, it looks normal.

So if this is your only car, I'd stay spring under on 33s. If you have another car, the sky's the limit, but it will be huge. Few pics of mine on the gear installs website to give an idea:

Toyota gear install

I didn't read your whole thread, but are you going to widen the track at all? I put an 80 axle in the rear of mine and like the extra width when off camber, and trust me off camber takes on a whole new meaning when you have a spring over!

Nevermind-I see you have an 80 rear. Good choice.

I'll go back and work through your build.

:cheers:
 
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cruisermatt said:
I really don't like the monster truck thing... And if my truck wasn't so nice I would replicate your 37's/no lift on a heartbeat. No offense but I think you understand. I also plan to keep this thing forever. I really want to wheel it hard but not roll it etc.

I really think I can SOA this thing and it not be huge. I just want more ground clearance and SOME uptravel. Currently have zero.

Also I'm going to go to either 80 wheels or a wheel with the same backspace(4.5", currently have 5.5") so I'll be 80 width all around. That should help.
Click to expand...


I understand, it's not always about doing the smart thing. If that was the case I'd have built a Samurai.

Cheers bro, it'll be bad ass!
 
Cruiserdrew said:
45 pages and it's still on worn out springs??? By the time it's done, you'll have 200 pages! LOL.

Just a word of caution and I realize you are not looking for advice. But...No way around the fact that a spring over 60 is a MONSTER truck. I tried to keep mine down and it is still the size of lifted bro trucks. It's almost embarrassing to drive because everyone looks at you funny. The only time it looks right is on difficult bouldery trails like the Rubicon. Then all of a sudden, it looks normal.

So if this is your only car, I'd stay spring under on 33s. If you have another car, the sky's the limit, but it will be huge. Few pics of mine on the gear installs website to give an idea:

Toyota gear install

I didn't read your whole thread, but are you going to widen the track at all? I put an 80 axle in the rear of mine and like the extra width when off camber, and trust me off camber takes on a whole new meaning when you have a spring over!

I'll go back and work through your build.

:cheers:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. To address your points in order:

1. :flipoff2:
2. I will have more vehicles at some point.
3. Put the 80 rear axle two summers ago. Step your game up bro! 2" spacers up front, and 5.5" backspace Tacoma rims. 80 series wheels will put me at 80 width front and rear.
 
90FJ said:
I understand, it's not always about doing the smart thing. If that was the case I'd have built a Samurai.

Cheers bro, it'll be bad ass!
Click to expand...

And I would be building a buggy
 
MANUCHAO said:
Those look sharp....
I gots lots of stuff I need to install in my rig....
Including a set of those wing windows....
How hard was the install?
Click to expand...

Royal PITA. More on that later.
 
Hey-I looked into the oil circulation thing today and had 80 rear diff all apart and side by side with a 60 diff.

They are completely different. The oil passages are significantly larger in the 80 diff, at least the upper passage where the oil gets flung by the ring gear. It looks like the path is to both bearings and then back the return. Just based on the size of the oil passages, and the alignment with the ring gear, 80 pinion bearings should never wear out, and come to think of it, I've never heard of any going bad.

But it also looks like the return is better aligned with the ring gear, so running it in reverse should cause some reverse circulation of the oil. I don't think that alignment is very good at all in a standard earlier diff, and the passages are smaller.

It also looks like the 80 diff will hold more oil since it's more "open" inside.

I skipped back and looked more at your thread. I agree with the 3FE choice sort of. But given you went to an NV4500, what was the reason to not run an LS motor?? Maybe the reasoning is in the 45 pages somewhere, but just curious.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Hey-I looked into the oil circulation thing today and had 80 rear diff all apart and side by side with a 60 diff.

They are completely different. The oil passages are significantly larger in the 80 diff, at least the upper passage where the oil gets flung by the ring gear. It looks like the path is to both bearings and then back the return. Just based on the size of the oil passages, and the alignment with the ring gear, 80 pinion bearings should never wear out, and come to think of it, I've never heard of any going bad.

But it also looks like the return is better aligned with the ring gear, so running it in reverse should cause some reverse circulation of the oil. I don't think that alignment is very good at all in a standard earlier diff, and the passages are smaller.

It also looks like the 80 diff will hold more oil since it's more "open" inside.

I skipped back and looked more at your thread. I agree with the 3FE choice sort of. But given you went to an NV4500, what was the reason to not run an LS motor?? Maybe the reasoning is in the 45 pages somewhere, but just curious.
Click to expand...

Good findings on the diff. I was on the verge of the discovery I just didn't want to take the diff apart that night.

As for an LS, the reality is I'll probably end up there eventually.

I'd also really like a 12HT. @mcguirejohnson and I have been toying with designing an NV4500 adapter plate to use the H bellhousing.

Anyways my 3FE is overbored, decked, desmogged, 2.5" exhaust with no cats. It works fine right now, however another 10-20 HP would be awesome if I'm honest. Toying with the idea of a 2FE with cam, SBC valves, etc.

Anyways there's been too many motor arguments arguments in this thread. 3FE is going to stay for a long time. That's what I said about the last one until I ran it dry..:frown:
 
cruisermatt said:
As for an LS, the reality is I'll probably end up there eventually.

Yeah-Me too. But I do so like my 3FE. 2Fs, not so much. Fuel injection for the win.

I'd also really like a 12HT. @mcguirejohnson and I have been toying with designing an NV4500 adapter plate to use the H bellhousing.

Don't bother. 12HT no longer supported by Toyota. It's a dead end, unfortunately.


Anyways my 3FE is overbored, decked, desmogged, 2.5" exhaust with no cats. It works fine right now, however another 10-20 HP would be awesome if I'm honest. Toying with the idea of a 2FE with cam, SBC valves, etc.

I wouldn't bother with this either. If your rebuilt 3FE ever goes bad, it's time for a 5.3.

Anyways there's been too many motor arguments arguments in this thread. 3FE is going to stay for a long time. That's what I said about the last one until I ran it dry..:frown:
Click to expand...
 
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