Cruiser Trash Parts thread (4 Viewers)

[CruiserTrash]

Update on 85-90 Fire Extinguisher Brackets:

Snafu with the fabrication. I use a CNC shop for this and asked them for a bunch just like the design I previously did (the successful prototype). Their response was “we can’t make this and you need to revise the design” pertaining to a portion that is identical to the 81-84 bracket that I’ve shipped a bunch of. Same exact design spec, same drawing. Showed them that they’ve fabricated lots of these and that they can in fact do the work as designed. The response was a staunch “we can’t do that” even though they have. Beyond frustrating.

We’ve come to a middle ground that will not require changing the design, simply adding some reliefs to aid in their bending process. That’s been a back and forth that lasted all week. Should be finalizing with them Monday and getting them in production. I will definitely be asking to NOT be put at the back of the queue. Updates to follow!

 

[DrRock]

Got mine Jim and it fits my 1985 perfect. Sorry to hear you’re having difficulty with your supplier, you’ve done a great job and that’s not a hard part to bend. PM me if you need some help finding another supplier.

 

[joebattle1]

Got mine this week.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Got mine this week.

View attachment 3851251View attachment 3851252

YES! Looks killer!

 

[CruiserTrash]

Coming soon: F/2F timing gear oiler. The demand for these will be low, I'm sure, but myself and a local guy needed them so here we are. Made from solid brass bar stock. Now with added chamfer on the top so they look extra cool. Updates to follow pending fitment. The usual caveats for installation apply: Do NOT overtighten these or it will push the timing plate off the block and result in a leak. I'm toying with shorter threads so the oiler bottoms out before pushing the plate off, but that may not be the final product. Make sure the nozzle points where the timing gears mesh. Locktite, staking, or both highly recommended.

Second iteration of the 62 FLRK bracket is en route to me. The central fuse box, connector sourcing, wire types and lengths, fuse sizes, etc, have all been figured out. I just have to dial in hanging everything in the engine bay.

FJ55 window gear is currently being tested. When I know more I'll post over in the pig pen.

Planning some time over the next week to CAD a hand drawing I have for an OVERHEAD CONSOLE. There's at least one available in Australia. It's big. Mine will be compact. Enough for a map light or two and a little storage cubby. I think the wiring solution for the light/s will be fishing through the headliner to the dome light - clean install, no exposed wires. Or do it yourself and run them up the a-pillar or something, your call. If you want huge - we're talking extended-to-the-rear-seat huge - break out the welder or start cutting some lumber: you're on your own unless you want to order from Australia. Incidentally, a fella in Europe is trying his hand at a larger version too, which will be good to see. There's quite a few ways to scratch this itch and I think that's cool.

Koito headlight kits are regularly going in and out of stock. If they're out of stock, usually I have them in 2-3 days so check back.

Almost all panel years/variations in stock. Both variations of the fire Extinguisher Bracket are in stock. HBIMs in stock. 60 FLRKs in stock. EGR ferrules in stock. Let's go!

 

[CruiserTrash]

2F oil nozzles are LIVE

These are verified to work on all 40s & 60s with 2F motors. I suspect they will work on F, F.5, 3F, and 3FE motors as well but I don't have any local testing opportunities. If you have a motor on that list please contact me and let's see if this thing works!

Again, the need for this will probably be low. But when you need it you need it.

The length of the threaded portion is slightly shorter than the stock nozzles. The intent there was to remove the danger of threading the nozzle too deep, pushing the timing plate off the block, resulting in a massive oil leak, while still having full thread engagement. I will be testing that on the 2F I'm building at some point this week. Either way, the part works. One more discontinued part number resurrected by the aftermarket.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Update time!

The 62 FLRK bracket needs one final tweak, and the kit should finally be on sale in the next 10-14 days.

On a 62 this is the absolute closest spot to the battery that you can put anything. The LHD smogged 3FE engine bay is truly one of the most in efficient uses of space I’ve ever seen. Just a parts bin disaster pile arranged in the worst way possible.

This test fit is in my 60, but all of the stuff in this area is the same as a 62: AC lines, coil, wiper motor.

I’m going to tweak the bracket to have the fuse box positioned 25mm (appx 1”) closer to the firewall. It’s manageable as is, but a little more breathing room from the AC lines will make things easier for the end user.

The bracket is 1.9mm stainless steel and has three points of contact. The bottom bolt is a little finicky to get in because you can’t get eyes on what you’re doing, but I assure you that you’ve done far more difficult projects on your truck. Overall it’s VERY rock solid.

As with the 60 FLRK:

100% plug & play. Two connectors that snap into the existing connectors on your wiring harness, plus three ring terminals you fasten with nuts.

6awg Ancor marine grade wiring

Brand new Japanese Yazaki 14awg wire (OEM wiring on 60 Series)

Plated JIS hardware

100% waterproof/dustproof fuse box with all connections sealed inside the box

Quality Littelfuse fuses in the appropriate values

I don’t cut corners, especially on electrical stuff. Untested, Amazon-grade fuses might save a buck apiece for example … but have also led to smoldering near-fires, as posted here on Mud. Other wire and cable might be cheaper, but the insulation is thin and flimsy or not rated for vehicles. It would also likely provide higher resistance - meaning more heat generated inside the wire. I could get Amazon-grade ring terminals that break but I don’t, I use high quality, thick Molex rings. Even the shrink wrap I use is name brand, thick walled, and glue lined for a good fit and seal. You could pay me $50 less for the kit and I could deliver you a pile of crap, risking your truck’s safety, and once word got out nobody would bother buying them. Nobody wins in that scenario.

Speaking of price, that’s still TBD. This week I’ll be working out the total assembly time I’ll have into these and then I can make an exact calculation.

 

[BurntToast]

Update time!

The 62 FLRK bracket needs one final tweak, and the kit should finally be on sale in the next 10-14 days.

On a 62 this is the absolute closest spot to the battery that you can put anything. The LHD smogged 3FE engine bay is truly one of the most in efficient uses of space I’ve ever seen. Just a parts bin disaster pile arranged in the worst way possible.
View attachment 3883548

This test fit is in my 60, but all of the stuff in this area is the same as a 62: AC lines, coil, wiper motor.
View attachment 3883549

I’m going to tweak the bracket to have the fuse box positioned 25mm (appx 1”) closer to the firewall. It’s manageable as is, but a little more breathing room from the AC lines will make things easier for the end user.
View attachment 3883550

The bracket is 1.9mm stainless steel and has three points of contact. The bottom bolt is a little finicky to get in because you can’t get eyes on what you’re doing, but I assure you that you’ve done far more difficult projects on your truck. Overall it’s VERY rock solid.

As with the 60 FLRK:

100% plug & play. Two connectors that snap into the existing connectors on your wiring harness, plus three ring terminals you fasten with nuts.

6awg Ancor marine grade wiring

Brand new Japanese Yazaki 14awg wire (OEM wiring on 60 Series)

Plated JIS hardware

100% waterproof/dustproof fuse box with all connections sealed inside the box

Quality Littelfuse fuses in the appropriate values

I don’t cut corners, especially on electrical stuff. Untested, Amazon-grade fuses might save a buck apiece for example … but have also led to smoldering near-fires, as posted here on Mud. Other wire and cable might be cheaper, but the insulation is thin and flimsy or not rated for vehicles. It would also likely provide higher resistance - meaning more heat generated inside the wire. I could get Amazon-grade ring terminals that break but I don’t, I use high quality, thick Molex rings. Even the shrink wrap I use is name brand, thick walled, and glue lined for a good fit and seal. You could pay me $50 less for the kit and I could deliver you a pile of crap, risking your truck’s safety, and once word got out nobody would bother buying them. Nobody wins in that scenario.

Speaking of price, that’s still TBD. This week I’ll be working out the total assembly time I’ll have into these and then I can make an exact calculation.

Nice work

 

[jclark]

Let’s.Freaking.Go! This is awesome Jim! Put me down for 3 and take my money already

Update time!

The 62 FLRK bracket needs one final tweak, and the kit should finally be on sale in the next 10-14 days.

On a 62 this is the absolute closest spot to the battery that you can put anything. The LHD smogged 3FE engine bay is truly one of the most in efficient uses of space I’ve ever seen. Just a parts bin disaster pile arranged in the worst way possible.
View attachment 3883548

This test fit is in my 60, but all of the stuff in this area is the same as a 62: AC lines, coil, wiper motor.
View attachment 3883549

I’m going to tweak the bracket to have the fuse box positioned 25mm (appx 1”) closer to the firewall. It’s manageable as is, but a little more breathing room from the AC lines will make things easier for the end user.
View attachment 3883550

The bracket is 1.9mm stainless steel and has three points of contact. The bottom bolt is a little finicky to get in because you can’t get eyes on what you’re doing, but I assure you that you’ve done far more difficult projects on your truck. Overall it’s VERY rock solid.

As with the 60 FLRK:

100% plug & play. Two connectors that snap into the existing connectors on your wiring harness, plus three ring terminals you fasten with nuts.

6awg Ancor marine grade wiring

Brand new Japanese Yazaki 14awg wire (OEM wiring on 60 Series)

Plated JIS hardware

100% waterproof/dustproof fuse box with all connections sealed inside the box

Quality Littelfuse fuses in the appropriate values

I don’t cut corners, especially on electrical stuff. Untested, Amazon-grade fuses might save a buck apiece for example … but have also led to smoldering near-fires, as posted here on Mud. Other wire and cable might be cheaper, but the insulation is thin and flimsy or not rated for vehicles. It would also likely provide higher resistance - meaning more heat generated inside the wire. I could get Amazon-grade ring terminals that break but I don’t, I use high quality, thick Molex rings. Even the shrink wrap I use is name brand, thick walled, and glue lined for a good fit and seal. You could pay me $50 less for the kit and I could deliver you a pile of crap, risking your truck’s safety, and once word got out nobody would bother buying them. Nobody wins in that scenario.

Speaking of price, that’s still TBD. This week I’ll be working out the total assembly time I’ll have into these and then I can make an exact calculation.

 

[Beams37]

Update time!

The 62 FLRK bracket needs one final tweak, and the kit should finally be on sale in the next 10-14 days.

On a 62 this is the absolute closest spot to the battery that you can put anything. The LHD smogged 3FE engine bay is truly one of the most in efficient uses of space I’ve ever seen. Just a parts bin disaster pile arranged in the worst way possible.
View attachment 3883548

This test fit is in my 60, but all of the stuff in this area is the same as a 62: AC lines, coil, wiper motor.
View attachment 3883549

I’m going to tweak the bracket to have the fuse box positioned 25mm (appx 1”) closer to the firewall. It’s manageable as is, but a little more breathing room from the AC lines will make things easier for the end user.
View attachment 3883550

The bracket is 1.9mm stainless steel and has three points of contact. The bottom bolt is a little finicky to get in because you can’t get eyes on what you’re doing, but I assure you that you’ve done far more difficult projects on your truck. Overall it’s VERY rock solid.

As with the 60 FLRK:

100% plug & play. Two connectors that snap into the existing connectors on your wiring harness, plus three ring terminals you fasten with nuts.

6awg Ancor marine grade wiring

Brand new Japanese Yazaki 14awg wire (OEM wiring on 60 Series)

Plated JIS hardware

100% waterproof/dustproof fuse box with all connections sealed inside the box

Quality Littelfuse fuses in the appropriate values

I don’t cut corners, especially on electrical stuff. Untested, Amazon-grade fuses might save a buck apiece for example … but have also led to smoldering near-fires, as posted here on Mud. Other wire and cable might be cheaper, but the insulation is thin and flimsy or not rated for vehicles. It would also likely provide higher resistance - meaning more heat generated inside the wire. I could get Amazon-grade ring terminals that break but I don’t, I use high quality, thick Molex rings. Even the shrink wrap I use is name brand, thick walled, and glue lined for a good fit and seal. You could pay me $50 less for the kit and I could deliver you a pile of crap, risking your truck’s safety, and once word got out nobody would bother buying them. Nobody wins in that scenario.

Speaking of price, that’s still TBD. This week I’ll be working out the total assembly time I’ll have into these and then I can make an exact calculation.

I'll be taking one either way !!

 

[Spook50]

Update time!

The 62 FLRK bracket needs one final tweak, and the kit should finally be on sale in the next 10-14 days.

On a 62 this is the absolute closest spot to the battery that you can put anything. The LHD smogged 3FE engine bay is truly one of the most in efficient uses of space I’ve ever seen. Just a parts bin disaster pile arranged in the worst way possible.
View attachment 3883548

This test fit is in my 60, but all of the stuff in this area is the same as a 62: AC lines, coil, wiper motor.
View attachment 3883549

I’m going to tweak the bracket to have the fuse box positioned 25mm (appx 1”) closer to the firewall. It’s manageable as is, but a little more breathing room from the AC lines will make things easier for the end user.
View attachment 3883550

The bracket is 1.9mm stainless steel and has three points of contact. The bottom bolt is a little finicky to get in because you can’t get eyes on what you’re doing, but I assure you that you’ve done far more difficult projects on your truck. Overall it’s VERY rock solid.

As with the 60 FLRK:

100% plug & play. Two connectors that snap into the existing connectors on your wiring harness, plus three ring terminals you fasten with nuts.

6awg Ancor marine grade wiring

Brand new Japanese Yazaki 14awg wire (OEM wiring on 60 Series)

Plated JIS hardware

100% waterproof/dustproof fuse box with all connections sealed inside the box

Quality Littelfuse fuses in the appropriate values

I don’t cut corners, especially on electrical stuff. Untested, Amazon-grade fuses might save a buck apiece for example … but have also led to smoldering near-fires, as posted here on Mud. Other wire and cable might be cheaper, but the insulation is thin and flimsy or not rated for vehicles. It would also likely provide higher resistance - meaning more heat generated inside the wire. I could get Amazon-grade ring terminals that break but I don’t, I use high quality, thick Molex rings. Even the shrink wrap I use is name brand, thick walled, and glue lined for a good fit and seal. You could pay me $50 less for the kit and I could deliver you a pile of crap, risking your truck’s safety, and once word got out nobody would bother buying them. Nobody wins in that scenario.

Speaking of price, that’s still TBD. This week I’ll be working out the total assembly time I’ll have into these and then I can make an exact calculation.

Very nicely done! Would be great to relocate all the fused connections on my battery to something like this.

An issue to consider (which I'm sure you have) is people like me being sloppy when filling our washer bottles and potentially spilling fluid all over the fuse box.

 

[RevISK]

Very nicely done! Would be great to relocate all the fused connections on my battery to something like this.

An issue to consider (which I'm sure you have) is people like me being sloppy when filling our washer bottles and potentially spilling fluid all over the fuse box.

Unfortunately, that is a good point.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Very nicely done! Would be great to relocate all the fused connections on my battery to something like this.

An issue to consider (which I'm sure you have) is people like me being sloppy when filling our washer bottles and potentially spilling fluid all over the fuse box.

Fortunately it’s 100% waterproof. The lid has a waterproof seal and all the cables & wires pass through rubber seals to make their connections inside. I got you!

 

[mdw83fj60]

Just upgraded to your to your 60 FLRK with the charge cable, have to say super impressed with quality and ease of install. Well done

 

[CruiserTrash]

Not 60 related: new part for Pigs. This is sort of my master thread for CTP, so I’m including it here anyway.

Rear window gears in pigs were originally plastic. They tend to fail before the rest of the linkage or the motor - which is good, and maybe by design. Better than wrecking more expensive pieces of the power window! But now the gears are discontinued. Folks have 3D printed these, but I’m generally not a fan of that technology beyond prototyping. It doesn’t seem to hold up long-term. So I 3D printed the gear, molded it, and have been casting it out of a special resin that is designed to have extra strength in thin parts of the casting - perfect for the tiny gear teeth. The strength of this product is increased with a forced heat cure, so they get baked in the oven for 6 hours. Two testers I sent out are doing great.

They’re up on the website in the New Parts category. The colors will vary. Some blue, some purple. I might try to dial in Nebula Green since a lot of pigs were that color on the lower body.

* * *

62 FLRK progress report:
Almost all the necessary parts should be here by the end of the week. The last hurdle was finding the correct cable seal for the 6awg battery feed and I cracked that nut yesterday. I have one completely built and it will be installed in a local 62 this week just to make sure the fuse sizes don’t cause any issues. “As low as I can safely go” is the goal there. You don’t want the fuse size so low that it gives you a false positive, blowing under normal operating circumstances. You also don’t want it so high that it’s not offering good protection. The original fusible link sizes provide most of the information to pick the correct fuse, but putting those fuse choices through their paces is necessary before shipping these out.

@overhanger truck Bart will be the guinea pig

 

[CruiserTrash]

I’m running a quick flash sale this weekend only! My storage space for inventory is limited and I just need to make some room.

15-20% off Fire Extinguisher Brackets, Cargo Panels, and Tailgate Panels. That includes both the Deluxe and ABS panels. The prices are already adjusted so no code is necessary. This is for IN STOCK items only. If you want one of these items and it’s out of stock, contact me directly so I can organize another run.

You can see the pricing in the New Products section of the website. Thanks for helping me free up some space!

 

[zeeklafreek]

I’m running a quick flash sale this weekend only! My storage space for inventory is limited and I just need to make some room.

15-20% off Fire Extinguisher Brackets, Cargo Panels, and Tailgate Panels. That includes both the Deluxe and ABS panels. The prices are already adjusted so no code is necessary. This is for IN STOCK items only. If you want one of these items and it’s out of stock, contact me directly so I can organize another run.

You can see the pricing in the New Products section of the website. Thanks for helping me free up some space!

Going to grab one. I can sort out something for shipping.

 

[Spike Strip]

I've been eyeing one of those Fire Extinguisher Brackets for a while ...

Stainless, too!

 

[CruiserTrash]

I've been eyeing one of those Fire Extinguisher Brackets for a while ...

Stainless, too!

Thanks for the order

 

[CruiserTrash]

Going to grab one. I can sort out something for shipping.

Feel free to PM me. I can ship straight to Deutschland.