Got mine this week.
Cruiser Trash Parts thread
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
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- Thread starter
- #242
YES! Looks killer!
- Thread starter
- #243
Coming soon: F/2F timing gear oiler. The demand for these will be low, I'm sure, but myself and a local guy needed them so here we are. Made from solid brass bar stock. Now with added chamfer on the top so they look extra cool. Updates to follow pending fitment. The usual caveats for installation apply: Do NOT overtighten these or it will push the timing plate off the block and result in a leak. I'm toying with shorter threads so the oiler bottoms out before pushing the plate off, but that may not be the final product. Make sure the nozzle points where the timing gears mesh. Locktite, staking, or both highly recommended. Second iteration of the 62 FLRK bracket is en route to me. The central fuse box, connector sourcing, wire types and lengths, fuse sizes, etc, have all been figured out. I just have to dial in hanging everything in the engine bay.FJ55 window gear is currently being tested. When I know more I'll post over in the pig pen.Planning some time over the next week to CAD a hand drawing I have for an OVERHEAD CONSOLE. There's at least one available in Australia. It's big. Mine will be compact. Enough for a map light or two and a little storage cubby. I think the wiring solution for the light/s will be fishing through the headliner to the dome light - clean install, no exposed wires. Or do it yourself and run them up the a-pillar or something, your call. If you want huge - we're talking extended-to-the-rear-seat huge - break out the welder or start cutting some lumber: you're on your own unless you want to order from Australia. Incidentally, a fella in Europe is trying his hand at a larger version too, which will be good to see. There's quite a few ways to scratch this itch and I think that's cool.Koito headlight kits are regularly going in and out of stock. If they're out of stock, usually I have them in 2-3 days so check back.Almost all panel years/variations in stock. Both variations of the fire Extinguisher Bracket are in stock. HBIMs in stock. 60 FLRKs in stock. EGR ferrules in stock. Let's go!
- Thread starter
- #244
2F oil nozzles are LIVE
These are verified to work on all 40s & 60s with 2F motors. I suspect they will work on F, F.5, 3F, and 3FE motors as well but I don't have any local testing opportunities. If you have a motor on that list please contact me and let's see if this thing works!
Again, the need for this will probably be low. But when you need it you need it.
The length of the threaded portion is slightly shorter than the stock nozzles. The intent there was to remove the danger of threading the nozzle too deep, pushing the timing plate off the block, resulting in a massive oil leak, while still having full thread engagement. I will be testing that on the 2F I'm building at some point this week. Either way, the part works. One more discontinued part number resurrected by the aftermarket.
These are verified to work on all 40s & 60s with 2F motors. I suspect they will work on F, F.5, 3F, and 3FE motors as well but I don't have any local testing opportunities. If you have a motor on that list please contact me and let's see if this thing works!
Again, the need for this will probably be low. But when you need it you need it.
The length of the threaded portion is slightly shorter than the stock nozzles. The intent there was to remove the danger of threading the nozzle too deep, pushing the timing plate off the block, resulting in a massive oil leak, while still having full thread engagement. I will be testing that on the 2F I'm building at some point this week. Either way, the part works. One more discontinued part number resurrected by the aftermarket.
- Thread starter
- #245
Update time!
The 62 FLRK bracket needs one final tweak, and the kit should finally be on sale in the next 10-14 days.
On a 62 this is the absolute closest spot to the battery that you can put anything. The LHD smogged 3FE engine bay is truly one of the most in efficient uses of space I’ve ever seen. Just a parts bin disaster pile arranged in the worst way possible.
This test fit is in my 60, but all of the stuff in this area is the same as a 62: AC lines, coil, wiper motor.
I’m going to tweak the bracket to have the fuse box positioned 25mm (appx 1”) closer to the firewall. It’s manageable as is, but a little more breathing room from the AC lines will make things easier for the end user.
The bracket is 1.9mm stainless steel and has three points of contact. The bottom bolt is a little finicky to get in because you can’t get eyes on what you’re doing, but I assure you that you’ve done far more difficult projects on your truck. Overall it’s VERY rock solid.
As with the 60 FLRK:
100% plug & play. Two connectors that snap into the existing connectors on your wiring harness, plus three ring terminals you fasten with nuts.
6awg Ancor marine grade wiring
Brand new Japanese Yazaki 14awg wire (OEM wiring on 60 Series)
Plated JIS hardware
100% waterproof/dustproof fuse box with all connections sealed inside the box
Quality Littelfuse fuses in the appropriate values
I don’t cut corners, especially on electrical stuff. Untested, Amazon-grade fuses might save a buck apiece for example … but have also led to smoldering near-fires, as posted here on Mud. Other wire and cable might be cheaper, but the insulation is thin and flimsy or not rated for vehicles. It would also likely provide higher resistance - meaning more heat generated inside the wire. I could get Amazon-grade ring terminals that break but I don’t, I use high quality, thick Molex rings. Even the shrink wrap I use is name brand, thick walled, and glue lined for a good fit and seal. You could pay me $50 less for the kit and I could deliver you a pile of crap, risking your truck’s safety, and once word got out nobody would bother buying them. Nobody wins in that scenario.
Speaking of price, that’s still TBD. This week I’ll be working out the total assembly time I’ll have into these and then I can make an exact calculation.
The 62 FLRK bracket needs one final tweak, and the kit should finally be on sale in the next 10-14 days.
On a 62 this is the absolute closest spot to the battery that you can put anything. The LHD smogged 3FE engine bay is truly one of the most in efficient uses of space I’ve ever seen. Just a parts bin disaster pile arranged in the worst way possible.
This test fit is in my 60, but all of the stuff in this area is the same as a 62: AC lines, coil, wiper motor.
I’m going to tweak the bracket to have the fuse box positioned 25mm (appx 1”) closer to the firewall. It’s manageable as is, but a little more breathing room from the AC lines will make things easier for the end user.
The bracket is 1.9mm stainless steel and has three points of contact. The bottom bolt is a little finicky to get in because you can’t get eyes on what you’re doing, but I assure you that you’ve done far more difficult projects on your truck. Overall it’s VERY rock solid.
As with the 60 FLRK:
100% plug & play. Two connectors that snap into the existing connectors on your wiring harness, plus three ring terminals you fasten with nuts.
6awg Ancor marine grade wiring
Brand new Japanese Yazaki 14awg wire (OEM wiring on 60 Series)
Plated JIS hardware
100% waterproof/dustproof fuse box with all connections sealed inside the box
Quality Littelfuse fuses in the appropriate values
I don’t cut corners, especially on electrical stuff. Untested, Amazon-grade fuses might save a buck apiece for example … but have also led to smoldering near-fires, as posted here on Mud. Other wire and cable might be cheaper, but the insulation is thin and flimsy or not rated for vehicles. It would also likely provide higher resistance - meaning more heat generated inside the wire. I could get Amazon-grade ring terminals that break but I don’t, I use high quality, thick Molex rings. Even the shrink wrap I use is name brand, thick walled, and glue lined for a good fit and seal. You could pay me $50 less for the kit and I could deliver you a pile of crap, risking your truck’s safety, and once word got out nobody would bother buying them. Nobody wins in that scenario.
Speaking of price, that’s still TBD. This week I’ll be working out the total assembly time I’ll have into these and then I can make an exact calculation.
Nice work
Very nicely done! Would be great to relocate all the fused connections on my battery to something like this.
An issue to consider (which I'm sure you have) is people like me being sloppy when filling our washer bottles and potentially spilling fluid all over the fuse box.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Unfortunately, that is a good point.
- Thread starter
- #251
Fortunately it’s 100% waterproof. The lid has a waterproof seal and all the cables & wires pass through rubber seals to make their connections inside. I got you!
- Thread starter
- #253
Not 60 related: new part for Pigs. This is sort of my master thread for CTP, so I’m including it here anyway.
Rear window gears in pigs were originally plastic. They tend to fail before the rest of the linkage or the motor - which is good, and maybe by design. Better than wrecking more expensive pieces of the power window! But now the gears are discontinued. Folks have 3D printed these, but I’m generally not a fan of that technology beyond prototyping. It doesn’t seem to hold up long-term. So I 3D printed the gear, molded it, and have been casting it out of a special resin that is designed to have extra strength in thin parts of the casting - perfect for the tiny gear teeth. The strength of this product is increased with a forced heat cure, so they get baked in the oven for 6 hours. Two testers I sent out are doing great.
They’re up on the website in the New Parts category. The colors will vary. Some blue, some purple. I might try to dial in Nebula Green since a lot of pigs were that color on the lower body.
* * *
62 FLRK progress report:
Almost all the necessary parts should be here by the end of the week. The last hurdle was finding the correct cable seal for the 6awg battery feed and I cracked that nut yesterday. I have one completely built and it will be installed in a local 62 this week just to make sure the fuse sizes don’t cause any issues. “As low as I can safely go” is the goal there. You don’t want the fuse size so low that it gives you a false positive, blowing under normal operating circumstances. You also don’t want it so high that it’s not offering good protection. The original fusible link sizes provide most of the information to pick the correct fuse, but putting those fuse choices through their paces is necessary before shipping these out.
@overhanger truck Bart will be the guinea pig
Rear window gears in pigs were originally plastic. They tend to fail before the rest of the linkage or the motor - which is good, and maybe by design. Better than wrecking more expensive pieces of the power window! But now the gears are discontinued. Folks have 3D printed these, but I’m generally not a fan of that technology beyond prototyping. It doesn’t seem to hold up long-term. So I 3D printed the gear, molded it, and have been casting it out of a special resin that is designed to have extra strength in thin parts of the casting - perfect for the tiny gear teeth. The strength of this product is increased with a forced heat cure, so they get baked in the oven for 6 hours. Two testers I sent out are doing great.
They’re up on the website in the New Parts category. The colors will vary. Some blue, some purple. I might try to dial in Nebula Green since a lot of pigs were that color on the lower body.
* * *
62 FLRK progress report:
Almost all the necessary parts should be here by the end of the week. The last hurdle was finding the correct cable seal for the 6awg battery feed and I cracked that nut yesterday. I have one completely built and it will be installed in a local 62 this week just to make sure the fuse sizes don’t cause any issues. “As low as I can safely go” is the goal there. You don’t want the fuse size so low that it gives you a false positive, blowing under normal operating circumstances. You also don’t want it so high that it’s not offering good protection. The original fusible link sizes provide most of the information to pick the correct fuse, but putting those fuse choices through their paces is necessary before shipping these out.
@overhanger truck Bart will be the guinea pig
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- Thread starter
- #254
I’m running a quick flash sale this weekend only! My storage space for inventory is limited and I just need to make some room.
15-20% off Fire Extinguisher Brackets, Cargo Panels, and Tailgate Panels. That includes both the Deluxe and ABS panels. The prices are already adjusted so no code is necessary. This is for IN STOCK items only. If you want one of these items and it’s out of stock, contact me directly so I can organize another run.
You can see the pricing in the New Products section of the website. Thanks for helping me free up some space!
15-20% off Fire Extinguisher Brackets, Cargo Panels, and Tailgate Panels. That includes both the Deluxe and ABS panels. The prices are already adjusted so no code is necessary. This is for IN STOCK items only. If you want one of these items and it’s out of stock, contact me directly so I can organize another run.
You can see the pricing in the New Products section of the website. Thanks for helping me free up some space!
Going to grab one. I can sort out something for shipping.
I've been eyeing one of those Fire Extinguisher Brackets for a while ... 
Stainless, too!
Stainless, too!
- Thread starter
- #257
Thanks for the orderI've been eyeing one of those Fire Extinguisher Brackets for a while ...
Stainless, too!
- Thread starter
- #258
Feel free to PM me. I can ship straight to Deutschland.
I've been eyeing one of those Fire Extinguisher Brackets for a while ...
Stainless, too!
I may try and adapt this Extinguisher shelf to the passenger side, depending on how much Fab I have to do. No reason other than I rarely have someone in the pass seat in the FJ60. My wife hates it and can't get into the truck without a step stool
- Thread starter
- #260
I think with a metal spacer and a long bolt you might be able to get it to work. The 81-84 May work better for you, too. PM me a photo and we’ll figure it out.I may try and adapt this Extinguisher shelf to the passenger side, depending on how much Fab I have to do. No reason other than I rarely have someone in the pass seat in the FJ60. My wife hates it and can't get into the truck without a step stool