sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
I’ve got a Scangauge 3 so I’ll be able to get the temp easily.You’ll be fine, the no dipstick level check is finicky but seems like a bigger deal than it actually is.

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I’ve got a Scangauge 3 so I’ll be able to get the temp easily.You’ll be fine, the no dipstick level check is finicky but seems like a bigger deal than it actually is.
I did my transmission again yesterday, for the 2nd time at 120k.
Only thing that I struggled with both times is the paper clip…. Anyone find a good trick for that?
Do you mind post the complete process? In particularly, I'm looking for torque spec for fill and drain for 2018 LX570The drain plug is in the top left of your photo. It's got a tiny allen head. It's NOT in the lowest point in the pan... NFC why. Ultimately this is why doing the full fluid flush is better IMO as that pumps the old fluid out of the pan, whereas the drain-and-fill procedure only really tops off the pan
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There is a transmission DIY flush thread with instructions on the full flush process.Do you mind post the complete process? In particularly, I'm looking for torque spec for fill and drain for 2018 LX570
If the bypass is disabled the ATF that is in the coolers and lines won’t be at the same temp as the pan, so technically a level check wouldn’t be as accurate. Or that’s my understanding of it anyway.One video I watched (The car care nut) said to leave the bypass in place while checking the fluid level and this video says to remove it before checking the level. Thoughts?
Yea I liked the idea of having the bypass activated. If I'm not mistaken, the fsm doesn't address the bypass when checking the level.If the bypass is disabled the ATF that is in the coolers and lines won’t be at the same temp as the pan, so technically a level check wouldn’t be as accurate. Or that’s my understanding of it anyway.
I’m not sure what the FSM specifies..
I did use a scan tool and shifted around D/N/R/1-8 two or three times. I didn't explicitly hold for 3sec though. I think I will just call it done. Thanks for confirming on the procedure.also make sure that you've pressurized the valve body by shifting between D and R a couple times holding it 3 seconds each time. Do this before entering fluid temp check mode (if you are using this method). or before you shift to park and wait for it get up to temp. I found the easiest is to just use a scan tool to check AT temp 1 PID, and open the overflow as soon as it gets to the beginning of that range, as it sometimes takes a while to drain, and depending on how much excess you have in the system - you may be getting close to the higher end of the temp range. I try to aim for right bang in the middle of the temp range. HTH
The truck won’t actually go into 3/4/5/6/7/8 without some ground speed though. It won’t even go into 2 unless you hit the 2nd start button.
Good to know
But for this purpose, while I was having fun shifting around 1-8 would it have the same effect as if I’m at D in which case I absolutely had hold it for more than 3sec?
I would say if you are only taking it out of the pan and replacing it, there's no need to bypass the thermostat.Think I am going to do just a drain/fill this weekend. Do you still have to use a clip on the thermostat if I am just draining the pan (cold fluid) and then putting the same amount of cold WS back in? I have a Scangauge to monitor temps and ensure the correct level is there, but wasn’t sure if I still needed to do anything to the thermostat.