sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Does anyone have the torque spec for the ‘check’ drain?
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15ft-lbf / 180in-lbfDoes anyone have the torque spec for the ‘check’ drain?
I got one from Amazon that turned out to be DOA. ultimately I just used a funnel I ran to the fill port from under the hood. Always good to have options though.I was wondering if something like this simple fluid pump would work for this job.
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Looks to be centrifugal anyway, which won’t pull a vacuum dry and therefore can’t “lift” the fluid out of the bottle unless you prime all the lines with atf ahead of time.I got one from Amazon that turned out to be DOA. ultimately I just used a funnel I ran to the fill port from under the hood. Always good to have options though.
I know it isn’t needed, but the right pump can make this job quicker and easier from under the truck. I’ll attach a picture of the cheap pump I used… it was much quicker than letting the fluid drain into the transmission via gravity. Also easier than snaking a large-ish hose down along the brake lines and frame, while avoiding the hot exhaust manifold.If you follow the video and fill from top of engine bay you don’t need a pump.
A pump will be helpful for other jobs like AHC or differentials/transfer case.
I also found this one too in Amazon. I was thinking of using it for multiple purposes like diff. and t-case fluid change. However, I need to wire it to a 12v wall plug adapter with a power switch. I don't think this pump as a on/off switch.I know it isn’t needed, but the right pump can make this job quicker and easier from under the truck. I’ll attach a picture of the cheap pump I used… it was much quicker than letting the fluid drain into the transmission via gravity. Also easier than snaking a large-ish hose down along the brake lines and frame, while avoiding the hot exhaust manifold.
The only quirk was having to run jumper cables down to the area because the 12v cord on it wasn’t long enough to reach the battery.
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Mine did, it was on the far end of the pump near where the cord enters.I don't think this pump as a on/off switch.
I'm glad you had a good one! The one I bought (on your earlier rec) got to me DOA. Too bad. At least amazon took it back without any issues.I know it isn’t needed, but the right pump can make this job quicker and easier from under the truck. I’ll attach a picture of the cheap pump I used… it was much quicker than letting the fluid drain into the transmission via gravity. Also easier than snaking a large-ish hose down along the brake lines and frame, while avoiding the hot exhaust manifold.
The only quirk was having to run jumper cables down to the area because the 12v cord on it wasn’t long enough to reach the battery.
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I was thinking of using different hose for different types of fluid. Plus, can I open the front cover and then try to clean it a bit before using it for different fluid? It looks like the front cover was held by a couple of screws.Mine did, it was on the far end of the pump near where the cord enters.
I will say it would be tough to flush all of one fluid type out before running another. So if you use it for multiple types you’d need to accept a little bit of contamination, or waste some of the new fluid flushing the old out into a disposable container
Tbh the simplest way is just pre-flush and accept that you’ll waste a few oz of new stuff. Yes the cover comes off but I don’t know what the pump intervals look like. Total guess but it’s probably a cheap dual diaphragm pump.. not sure if that can be reassembled easily.I was thinking of using different hose for different types of fluid. Plus, can I open the front cover and then try to clean it a bit before using it for different fluid? It looks like the front cover was held by a couple of screws.
If a fluid exchange is done correctly there is no harm in leaving the pan in place.. Though yes you'd have to drop it if you are curious what's on the magnets.
Even if 2-3qt is left in the pan after initial drain, when diluted with the extra added before pumping it through the transmission and out into the catch pan, what remained will dilute very, very quickly.
I just did this on a 6-spd and did 4 cycles of 3 qts each.. by the end the fluid being pumped out was indistinguishable from the new stuff, despite leaving the pan in place.
FYI that little pump seems to work better if you have the large hose on the suction side..I just dealt with this yesterday on our 200. It's at 291,300 miles and I bought it used 35,000 miles ago.
I don't know when it was last changed, but I know someone was in there before. They left a crushwasher off the drain plug. I ended up getting about 3.5 quarts.
It drives great looks terrible. I'm going to do another pan exchange soon. This little fluid pump makes it really easy.
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I just dealt with this yesterday on our 200. It's at 291,300 miles and I bought it used 35,000 miles ago.
I don't know when it was last changed, but I know someone was in there before. They left a crushwasher off the drain plug. I ended up getting about 3.5 quarts.
It drives great looks terrible. I'm going to do another pan exchange soon. This little fluid pump makes it really easy.
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In regards to taking the temp, just use a heat gun and shoot the bottom of the pan, it will be within a couple degrees of the fluid.A couple of follow up items for 2016+ with the 8 speed.
- I could not get the transmission to go into diagnostic mode with jumping the pins in the OBD2 port. Anyone else had this issue?
- Where are you all pulling the return line to get fluid going back to the transmission after the cooler? I pulled the port on the radiator with the pink dot as mentioned and made a huge mess. Then I went to the bottom line at the transmission and still had fluid coming out of the soft line as well as the hard line. This was much easier on my 100 series - I just pulled the line at the bottom of the radiator. Any suggestions?
Thanks!