Compiled 80 series suspension component spec thread... shocks, coils & more. (15 Viewers)

[parkeyjack]

Hey all, I got a lot of great info from this thread and I recently installed some new springs on my 95 so I thought I'd share my before and after measurements and pics:
Springs- Dobinson C59-220v in front and C59-269v in the rear. The springs that were removed were presumably the factory originals with 273k miles. I have the third row seats removed, the running boards removed, the rear bumper end caps removed, and no weight to speak of added on just for a reference weight-wise; gas tank 1/2 full.

Measurements Before and after(center hub to bottom of fender with fender flare removed):
Driver Front: 20-1/4"---> 22-1/4"
Passenger Front: 19-7/8"---> 22-1/4"
Driver Rear: 21-1/8"---> 22-1/2"
Passenger Rear: 21-3/4"---> 23"

Shocks are Fox 2.0s which I put on before the new springs. Ride quality is GREATLY improved. When I bought this 80 about six weeks ago it was apparent 1 or more shocks were shot. The thing rode like a boat. Replacing the shocks helped but the springs made a huge difference is ride quality and handling. The ride is firmer but not harsh at all and roll is less pronounced. The pic from the driver side is with the new springs, the pic from pass side is with old springs, and the pic driver side with old wheels is how she looked when I bought it. The new tires are 285/75/16s for reference.

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I have exact same setup! Question:
-when you go over speed bumps do you feel like suspension is bottoming out or the Fox shocks are possibly topping out?
The ride is great, just curious if you had any similar things going on over large bumps?

Unsure if I need to upgrade or drop my bumpstops or what the deal is

 

[Rusty Cruiser]

I have exact same setup! Question:
-when you go over speed bumps do you feel like suspension is bottoming out or the Fox shocks are possibly topping out?
The ride is great, just curious if you had any similar things going on over large bumps?

Unsure if I need to upgrade or drop my bumpstops or what the deal is

View attachment 3815376

I did Durobump extended bump stops in the back but I don't think they are quite enough. I think I'm right on the edge of bottoming out the shocks in the rear still, front seems ok so far. I don't really feel it going over bumps in everyday situations but off-road I think I could bottom out the rears shocks if I tried hard enough. I just jumped up to 315/75/16s so I need to go try and flex it out and see what is hitting where.

 

[GW Nugget]

I didn't know they finally came out with bump stops.
Here is the 80 series link.

Lexus LX450 (1996-1997)

DuroBumps Bump Stops provide smooth, progressive dampening for Toyota 4Runner, Tacoma, Tundra, Land Cruisers, FJ Cruiser, and Lexus GX/LX

durobumps.com

I don't see how much more the extended version is extended???
Nore do I see extra separate spacers.

 

[Rusty Cruiser]

I didn't know they finally came out with bump stops.
Here is the 80 series link.

Lexus LX450 (1996-1997)

DuroBumps Bump Stops provide smooth, progressive dampening for Toyota 4Runner, Tacoma, Tundra, Land Cruisers, FJ Cruiser, and Lexus GX/LX

durobumps.com

I don't see how much more the extended version is extended???
Nore do I see extra separate spacers.

they make three different sizes and each unit is an inch longer than the next one. I got the 3.5” ones which are smallest as their site says that is for a 0-3” lift. Looking at the site again now I think I would have been better off going with a larger size. I did notice when I first flexed this thing out the Durobump stop has a tendency to deflect sideways when stuffing one wheel yielding less resistance than they likely do when bottoming out the entire axle at once. Maybe they base their recommendations off of this rather than stuffing one side at a time. Either way, i don’t see why you couldn’t use these along with a spacer like Slee or Dobinson so you get the progressive squish along with the proper up travel limit.
With all that said, I do think Fox 2.0s are probably too long with a mild lift like I have and are probably better suited for 3” lift or higher.

 

[06reg4x4]

can we get some pics of them flexed out and touching?

 

[florida95fzj]

Just finished up some OME springs that was supposed to add 2". I was overweight with 3 blown shocks so my starting point was screwed up.

What would be the most useful upgrades to help bring the handling back to normal?

I have adjustable rear sway bar links from @LandCruiserPhil and plan to install them tomorrow. I haven't addressed the caster yet and need to get the alignment checked first. Debating between Delta control arms or just using some bushings for the next few months.

I am not sure where to start and what vendors to look at. I'd like to start with the lower cost / easier to upgrade items first and go from there.

Those are only ~33" tires.

 

[Heckraiser]

If you don't mind the cost, Delta arms are the best solution. Landtank caster plates are second best and a lot cheaper. I would not bother with the caster bushings. Good call getting an alignment to see what you need, but I doubt the bushings will give you enough caster to make it perfect and they don't last very long.

 

[florida95fzj]

If you don't mind the cost, Delta arms are the best solution.

For +2" coils, do the Delta front arms make a significant difference in handling or will I need to keep chasing other items like the panhards and rear control arms?

 

[Heckraiser]

Really the only thing you can correct for with a lift is caster, so yes, the delta arms (or whatever caster correction method you choose) should do the trick handling wise.

Just this guy's opinion, but the only modification that would be beneficial in the rear is a delta panhard relocation bracket. No need for aftermarket/adjustable arms of any kind, the stock ones are perfectly adequate.

 

[florida95fzj]

Just this guy's opinion, but the only modification that would be beneficial in the rear is a delta panhard relocation bracket. No need for aftermarket/adjustable arms of any kind, the stock ones are perfectly adequate.

Thanks, I had not heard about this. Found the thread and it's a good read.

 

[mrsleeve]

Night and day difference with road tracking when I put the delta arms on my truck. That said my radius bushings were totally shot but the PO put a pretty aggressive lift on with very few supporting mods so any new bushings and any caster correction would have made a vast improvement

 

[Box Rocket]

I'm still very much in favor of caster plates over caster bushings if you're not changing radius arms.

 

[florida95fzj]

@Box Rocket. Appreciate the feedback.They all require notching or cutting into the frame side, correct? I was trying to consider if using the plates now, but changing my mind later would be a problem.

 

[Box Rocket]

@Box Rocket. Appreciate the feedback.They all require notching or cutting into the frame side, correct? I was trying to consider if using the plates now, but changing my mind later would be a problem.

Only require a small notch to be cut on the axle brackets. It won't have any negative affect if you want to switch to aftermarket arms at some point. Some plate vendors recommend a small stitch weld of the plates to the axle brackets. I've seen many who choose not to do that and have no issues. Others just and a couple small tack welds that are easily cut/ground off if they ever remove the plates in favor of aftermarket radius arms.

 

[florida95fzj]

So for a small amount of correction (say ~2 to 3 degrees), what are the options? I am at -1.3 and -1.5 today.

I see Land Tank has a nice set but doesn't span the top original bolt hole like some of the others. I assume that design would really need the stitch weld and would like to avoid welding this. I actually don't see any other plates for a 2" lift.

 

[Box Rocket]

So for a small amount of correction (say ~2 to 3 degrees), what are the options? I am at -1.3 and -1.5 today.

I see Land Tank has a nice set but doesn't span the top original bolt hole like some of the others. I assume that design would really need the stitch weld and would like to avoid welding this. I actually don't see any other plates for a 2" lift.

While they are designed for a 4" lift, my experience has been that the Slee caster plates work well for lifts between 2-4". I've had lift heights on my own 80s from 2" through 6" and with all of those I used Slee caster plates. Obviously the caster correction on a 6" lift wasn't quite adequate with the Slee plates, but I mention it purely to illustrate my experience.
Even if caster correction puts the caster on the upper end of the factory spec range it can be a overall positive effect on handling. Again, I'm just speaking from personal experience and speaking specifically in regards to caster correction plates. There are other ways to correct caster that are also effective (the most ideal being radius arms with the correction built in). But if you are looking at using plates to correct caster I've found that 4" plates work well even for slightly shorter lift heights (whether it's Slee or other brands).

Keep in mind that one possible side affect of caster plates is that the rotation of the axle can cause contact between the top of the radius arms and the tie rod. *Minimal* clearancing of the top of the radius arm will usually eliminate any contact.

SLEE - Caster Plate Kit for 4" lift - '91-97 Land Cruiser / Lexus LX 450 - Slee Off Road

Correct Caster for 4" lift kit Supplied with all installation hardware Requires cutting and welding

sleeoffroad.com

 

[250below10]

Hi all,
After reading this whole tread, I think Im still overthinking it, but could use some help.

Im planning on getting out of my 2.5" Ironman springs and going to a Dobinsons.
My current setup is OME 63018/63020, front ARB with 9.5k winch, sliders, drawers, no 3rd row seats, no spare tire, prinsu roofrack on its way, and Im moving from 285s to 315s. Im installing today (or tomorrow) some Delta arms and panhard bracket.

The 80 sits around 22" from hub to fender and Im looking to gain one more inch. Truck is back into daily driving duties but also family camping/mild trail running.
Im trying to decide between the linear coils or the VT ones, specifically C97-146VT/C97-147VT or C59-170/C59-185.

Any input is appreciated

 

[AcroSteve]

This subject is so daunting. Respect with a non stock chassis.

I'd overlooked it initially, or forgotten it, but the method of measuring lift...

Fronts only have 50 mm of up travel and rears have 105?

That sure doesn't seem like much.

But anyway, we're trying to get our FJ140 setup and it gets expensive quick without solid information. Might be a bit of a shot in the dark, but maybe someone would have reliable advice.

'96 Chassis weighs 5,880, which i guess is about 1000 lbs over stock FJ80. That's without any cargo, just a driver. Front is 2,760 and rear is 3,120.

This is OME 3" lift. 850j front and not sure on the rear. 863j i think. Those are 220lbs and 265lbs. Single rate springs.

But, it's too tall. Rides good, if you don't worry about stability. Definitely top heavy feeling. Looks like we'd like 2" less lift than what those give.

So we got a set of "stock height", dual rate, OME. 861. 170/250 lbs and rear 862
170/260lbs

Installed them and the soft portion of the spring compresses immediately. The ride is a bit rougher than the lifted set. But stability is solid. But it sits too low on the 861/862 it's about 4.5" lower than the 863. That's measuring tire to fender, not at the spring stop. I'm looking for something in between.

It's strange that the rougher ride seems to be mostly from the rear, considering the spring rates are nearly identical 265 vs 250. With the 250 being rougher than 265.

I'll have to get spring stop measurements this afternoon to know absolute relationship to stock.

It just doesn't make sense that we get a rougher ride on the lower springs. Since the 170 rate is collapsed, just comparing 260 to 265, it should ride similar, but it doesn't.

So, our confidence is a little shaken when it comes to rate selection. Not even considering the lift variables.

Given that information, how confident would you be that the 2866(1/2" lift advertised) would hit the spot for the rear? Or possibly the 2860.
The front on the 861 isn't as bad( it sits 2.5" lower), but i think it could stand to be just a touch taller. The softer portion of the dual rate is almost completely compresed on it too.

Here it is on the lower set.

 

[AcroSteve]

Let me update this thread.
Based on the bump stop distanced inside the springs of front 50mm and rear 105mm for stock lift.

This is with 5,880lbs. Front is 2,760 and rear is 3,120.

On the 2861 fronts there is about 90mm. 1.4" lift.
On the 2862 rears there is abot 105mm. 0 lift.

On the 2850j fronts there is about 143mm. 3.7" lift
On the 2863j rears there is about 165mm. 2.4" lift.

One thing I haven't noticed mentioned, or remember is the clearance problem with the OME BP51 shocks on full compression.

The brake line bracket on both sides will serve as a hard bump stop on the shock body itself. I relocated them outboard about 3/4"

The right side is a bit worse. The short hard line is also in the way. Gotta bend the bracket too.

 

[Beach80]

What springs and shocks are you running that gave you an actual 4" lift (when measured from center of hub to bottom of fender flare 4" lift = about 24")? Preferably with offroad bumpers, drawers, and skid plates.