Buying an FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[wchevron]

Looking at FJ40's lately. Been scrolling through the build and tech threads to try to gain some knowledge. Just in the last month, reading through some threads, I'm already noticing things on some online listings which I had no idea about before I found this site.
My price point is pretty low so will looking for something that needs a fair bit of work. Am I correct in thinking a truck with decent frame/engine and bad body would be better than decent body but needs extensive frame or engine work. My thought is if it runs okay, I can use it and over time work on the body/interior.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I guess it depends where you are at. Around here they want a fortune (IMHO) for stuff. Blown engine and rusted out makes no difference - they still want a fortune.

I have a 72 with a 76 top (nicer doors). I have a 4 sp to put in (would like to use the 3sp transfer to get a lower low so it would make up for getting bigger tires in order to get better highway speed.

I'm a car gets you from point A to B type of person.

 

[pb4ugo]

What do you want in a 40? Stk, restomod, 4 wheeler? Imo, paint and body work are going to be the most time consuming and expensive part of the project. It can be a big rabbit hole. Especially if your hiring it out. It's mostly all labor.
It depends on your body work skills. There are replacement tubs out there too. I'd personally would look for a solid body and decent mechanicals. You're hoping to find the most complete 40 you can. Switches, brackets, seats, etc.
Mechanicals can be expensive but is usually can be diagnosed and is a straight forward repair. You're usually going to want to rebuild, repair, upgrade or replace the mechanicals 1st anyway. What's your budget? Is there any money left? A 40 is a good way to drain your account and look cool while doing it. You're going to learn skills and get your hands dirty. Check out the classified section. There are some solid sellers in there. The stuff online can be lipstick on a pig. Try to find USA spec, if it's been restored look for b4 pics.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

You will get better feedback if you share your budget and purpose of use like mentioned above. In general buy the most rust free and complete rig for your budget. Go from there.

Sometimes its better to get a second job or sell a kidney for a better rig to begin your journey. Also depends on your skills.

 

[jmylie]

You're in RI and the Northeast is a rust area. Anything "local" that is not too costly, may be a money pit to get back on the road.

You can get body parts or whole bodies. Frames, maybe but most likely custom work unless you can do it yourself.

However, there are some good finds or look South or West where they don't need salt on the roads.

Good luck.

 

[Skreddy]

As said: what do you want to do with it? Can you work on it yourself or are you willing to learn? What’s your purchase budget, how much can you put into monthly after that?

In general for something I want to drive: best body/least rust and damage I can find. Bad body and bad frame seem to go hand in hand. I doubt you’ll find a mint body with toasted frame or the reverse. In general, mechanicals are easier/cheaper than bodywork and paint.

Lastly, buy the most complete you can find. Missing parts add up very fast on these and that good deal quickly becomes a bad buy.

Good luck!

 

[wchevron]

Trying to stay $15-20k, so looking at ones for sale, I'd be getting something that needs a bit of work. Selling a boat so depends on what that brings in. Just looking for something to tool around in the summer. Maybe do a little offroading or beach driving. Always wanted a Land Cruiser, thought they were so cool looking when I was a kid. Happened to see one on the road a couple months back and my interest got sparked again. Some of it is probably mid life crisis. One kid graduating college, other half way through so have for free time now it's just me and my wife.
Kind of figured if I found something that was mechanically sound, and I could drive, but needed cosmetic work I could try to learn on the cosmetics. Can weld a bit, worst case have a guy I work with that used to weld subs so he can handle anything I can't. Wouldn't mind trying some bondo work, some wiring, etc.

 

[Skreddy]

For $15-20k, you should be able to find a pretty decent and solid 40. Yes, it’s probably going to have a little rust in the rear sill, probably be missing a few random things, but overall should be pretty complete and driving. Looking in the classifieds on here often sees ones with better condition/price than craigslist or Facebook. From my experience anyway.

And don’t limit yourself to just local. A $500 plane ticket and a couple grand shipping really opens your options up.

 

[pb4ugo]

You're not the 1st one coming here for advice on a purchase. It happens alot. Post up pics of what you're looking at and we'll pick it apart so you know what your getting into. Look across the country, you'll likely find folks here who may take a look it for you. Don't be afraid of faded paint and surface rust. Your budget should find a solid 40. Getting it home can be part of the story.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

FAQ is your friend.

*** Purchasing an FJ-40 / FJ-40 B U Y E R S G U I D E *** (f A Q )

Read this https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/132481-buying-land-cruiser.html Then go below. What others have found and questions they have asked. Or if your really smart just type "buy" or "buying" in the seach field and actually do the search yourself...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[projectTuRD]

I stumbled across mine when I wasn’t looking. Running, driving, complete for half your budget.
Aside from the headgasket, the majority of the work I’ve done to it is optional-cosmetic.
I wanted to get rid of the beige and back to blue. I wanted stock wheels and caps. I wanted front discs.
I have ended up replacing and cleaning stuff up along the way because I can’t leave it alone. I’m in no hurry and I don’t mind the character. I won’t be taking it through the rubicon or anything, it’s strictly a summer weekend cruiser.

 

[sterling]

Take a look at @sogafarm 's Montina build.
That is what I would shoot for and I think it was in your budget here in the classifieds( price is gone now).

As stated previously you will probably have to take a trip to get a more rust free starting point.
It will be worth it in the long run!

 

[wchevron]

I found one locally at a used car dealership. Pretty sure it's been there at least 2 years. One of the car websites it was listed on said it had been listed for 6xx days. I had taken a quick look a month or so ago. Looked like it had a 3" or so body lift and not a Toyota engine, maybe Chevy? After reading some tub posts here and looking at the pictures again, I think it may have a fiberglass tub. If I have time this weekend I'll take some detailed pics and get an assessment from everyone. Believe they are asking for $11 but I'm thinking I could get them down into single digits if it's worth it. Not in any hurry so if the collective group doesn't think it's a good investment, i'll pass.

 

[sterling]

Hard pass.
Car dealership, 2 years on the lot, in a salt state, 40 with a tall body lift... all red flags for me.
Fiberglass tub, everyone has their opinion but I am not a fan.
If the body was shot enough to put a fiberglass tub on it, I don't have high hopes for the frame.

There was a spring greenish truck posted some time back at a dealer with pics, sounds familiar.

 

[sogafarm]

Take a look at @sogafarm 's Montina build.
That is what I would shoot for and I think it was in your budget here in the classifieds( price is gone now).

As stated previously you will probably have to take a trip to get a more rust free starting point.
It will be worth it in the long run!

Don't be afraid to check out the classified section here on Mud and be prepared for higher shipping costs depending on where the cruiser is coming from. I had two great sellers on this sight to deal with who helped out with the shipping as I had never shipped a vehicle before. I couldn't be happier with my two choices. One is a 1975 desmogged fj40 from Montana and the other is a totally intact 1979 model from California. Prices are low currently as I had been looking for one in my price range for several years. I wanted originality over modifications. I wanted the 2f engine as I was familiar with it from previous Fj60's. The advantage of having original equipment is that parts are easier to find and you can get most parts cheap from the various Landcruiser specialty parts dealers as well as Toyota dealer. The V-8 conversions are a big mystery of hodge podged years and you have to decipher what engine and parts in order to service them. Stick with Toyota equipment. Its amazing the support in this community so you have a great information resource here. I love the restoration process and researching and fixing problems so an old FJ40 is right up my alley. Don't get in a hurry and get the best one you can afford. Rust is usually the biggest issue with these and expensive if you have to get someone else to do the work. Good luck in you search, its addicting!

 

[wchevron]

Found this 1980 I took a look at over the weekend. I looked under the truck at the diamond plate areas and didn't see any rust holes but maybe I wasn't looking at the right areas. Mininal rust on the floor. Seams on the top didn't appear to have much rust. Some rust on the front fenders but the owner had purchased 2 new fenders he never installed. Has been sitting a while so took a bit to get it going but once warmed up she ran well. Not sure if the brakes need some work or that's just how brakes from 1980 work but almost went through a red light when trying to stop. Took a long time to slow down. Glad there wasn't anyone in front of me. Asking $18,000. To me seems like a good deal.

 

[greenbeast]

Post what you’re looking for in Classifieds, someone always kicking around selling theirs. Many reputable non dealership folks know or have one they’re going to sell that has had lots of work done.

Personally the Diamond plating is no go for me.

Brief look at pics, paint everywhere under the hood around engine.

You can do better, pre 79 has less rust in most cases. Definitely find one in south.

 

[aging fleet]

It could be a great truck, but this wouldn't be the one for me. Mostly because of the diamond plate which may or may not be hiding rust (given it's in the NE, it's probably hiding rust) and the cut quarters. Also not excited about the overspray on the hardlines and rubber under the hood, aftermarket carb, fenders not being painted on the engine bay side, etc.

I'd be surprised if there wasn't a pretty sold exhaust leak here. The flange shouldn't be bent like that.

 

[mlkco]

I agree with a previous entry. I bought mine because the body and frame were rust free. It was missing a lot of pieces and I spent a fortune getting the parts. I have way more in mine than I could ever get out of it. Not that I care because I'm not selling it.
If I was doing it again I'd buy a much more complete one even paying more.
Good luck

 

[wchevron]

Thanks for the replies. It's actually down in North Carolina.