Brake Upgrade - The Tundra Mod

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That’s awesome, because I really like those wheels.

Didn’t you install your Supra booster/mc prior to the 80 FF?

I did, went the the Supra 1” MC and Dual Diaphragm Booster over the 80 series because it was close out on RockAuto (yah cheap like that)
 
City Racer says his 16" FJ40 wheels won't fit over the Tundra brakes which is a bummer. The reason for asking is I'm building up a 40 and wanted to use them, oh well.
 
Two questions:

1. Is anyone running the City Racer 16" wheels with the Tundra brakes?
2. Anyone running the Tundra front brakes but keeping the 60 rear drums, what master cylinder/booster combo is known to be working good?

All the parts listed in my posts were installed in an '89 HJ-61 with the stock 60 FF rear axle with drums. I've run it without issues for 2 years now. If you converted to disks in the rear you might need a different master than the one I specified. @Godwin 's thread outlines the mods he made for going with an 80 rear axle.
 
Working on a FROR conversion, this time using the 2010-2020 4Runner rotors and calipers (Bigger then 00-06 Tundra, listed as the "2017+ 4runner brakes on the FROR website.). I got the hubs turned down this evening and went to slip the rotor over the hub, and the center bore on the rotor is bigger then the hub center. Rotor is 4.26" opening and the hub is 4.17". I thought this may just be an issue with these late model rotors, since I've never heard of anyone actually using them, most use the 00-06 Tundra setup. The center bore on a Tundra rotor is 4.26" as well! I also checked another set of IFS hubs, the flower petal style, that's on my own Cruiser and they have a 4.17" diameter as well. So what gives? What's centering the rotor on the hub for people running this?
 
this is the issue I'm having.

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Bore the rotors.
The rotor bore is larger then the hub diameter.
It’s looking like this is normal and the rotor is just centered with the lug studs, in which case that’s pretty poor design. I’m thinking of making up some steel centering rings to tack onto the hubs.

I was also .. less then impressed by the FROR caliper bracket. It had a 1/8” spacer tacked to it and several bolt holes didn’t line up.
 
Oh, duh. Edited above.

Wheels on our trucks are typically lug-centric, so they don't even touch the hubs ID. I'm not sure it's a big deal to have the rotors held on with just the studs.
 
Oh, duh. Edited above.

Wheels on our trucks are typically lug-centric, so they don't even touch the hubs ID. I'm not sure it's a big deal to have the rotors held on with just the studs.

Well clearly it works since no one has reported any vibration/shakes that I’ve heard. No arguing that.

But these rotors are designed to be hub centric.
I’ve never seen a application where the rotor doesn’t center on the hub body itself on any vehicle before... right? For example 60 rotors have the studs pressed through them but still center themselves on the back of on the wheel hub. 80 series rear rotors are floating design but center on the rear full-float hub body.
 
@cruisermatt it seems clear that you should make a better product for us all. When dealing with the brake system, precision would be desirable, not mis-aligned bolt holes.
 
@cruisermatt it seems clear that you should make a better product for us all. When dealing with the brake system, precision would be desirable, not mis-aligned bolt holes.
I just want to make sure there’s not something I’m missing before putting a product or vendor on blast.
 
Well clearly it works since no one has reported any vibration/shakes that I’ve heard. No arguing that.

But these rotors are designed to be hub centric.
I’ve never seen a application where the rotor doesn’t center on the hub body itself on any vehicle before... right? For example 60 rotors have the studs pressed through them but still center themselves on the back of on the wheel hub. 80 series rear rotors are floating design but center on the rear full-float hub body.
I'm with you on this. Would much rather see hubs and rotors matched to within a few thousandths of an inch to allow for minimum movement. You're still using modified IFS 4Runner hubs right? What's the unmodified diameter? Skimmed through the thread again but didn't see it. Would honestly be nice if the 10-20 4Runner calipers eliminated the need for turning a stock IFS hub down.
 
I'm with you on this. Would much rather see hubs and rotors matched to within a few thousandths of an inch to allow for minimum movement. You're still using modified IFS 4Runner hubs right? What's the unmodified diameter? Skimmed through the thread again but didn't see it. Would honestly be nice if the 10-20 4Runner calipers eliminated the need for turning a stock IFS hub down.

I have IFS hubs on my rig, the flower petal style, but my brake setup is very different from the slip-on rotor style that this thread is about so not very relevant. not sure what they're off of but any hub is going to need the OD of the WMS for the rotor to fit over.

I should be able to post up my solution for better centering the rotors on the hubs in a few days.
 
Ok. My hub centering rings aren’t going to work out for a few reasons.
That’s besides the point though, I figured out how the rotors and hubs center for all you guys running this setup. The answer was right in front of me and I just had to flip the setup over on my workbench. :)



C6D6EC05-BC39-46FC-AB43-79A1E5063665.jpeg
 
Ok. My hub centering rings aren’t going to work out for a few reasons.
That’s besides the point though, I figured out how the rotors and hubs center for all you guys running this setup. The answer was right in front of me and I just had to flip the setup over on my workbench. :)



View attachment 2595773
Well hell that works!
 
So as a quick check for whomever is going to run this setup, make sure your rotor fits snugly over the hub! I am machining down the hubs myself, the mistake I made was taking too much material off the first hub I did.
 
So as a quick check for whomever is going to run this setup, make sure your rotor fits snugly over the hub! I am machining down the hubs myself, the mistake I made was taking too much material off the first hub I did.
Just for clarification; you're turning down the larger outer diameter right? Not the portion that the wheel itself fits over?
 
Just for clarification; you're turning down the larger outer diameter right? Not the portion that the wheel itself fits over?

Correct.
 
So looking back at some of the posts it seems that its hit or miss as to what 16" wheels fit over these brakes?
 

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