Brake Upgrade - The Tundra Mod (2 Viewers)

60Works

60 Series Iron Works
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Hello All,

Here are some specifics for performing the Front Range Off Road (FROR) Tundra brake mod on the front axle of a 60 Series Land Cruiser. This combination of master/caliper seems perfectly balanced with pedal travel, feel, and response. Braking performance is a huge improvement over OEM and capable of stopping heavy loads with oversized tires. Toyota has been (and still is) using these components for 18 years. FROR's adaptor has also been in service for many years. I sincerely wish there were more threads to hold the caliper bolts but have not read about any failures.

This modification consists of replacing the following parts:

Brake master cylinder to ?year FJ-80,
This installation used Advics p/n BMT-090

Brake calipers to 2005 Tundra, Toyota LH p/n 47750-0C020, RH p/n 47730-0C020
This installation used Power Stop p/n 1PST S2712

Brake pads to 2005 Tundra, Toyota p/n 04465-35290
This installation used Power Stop p/n 1PST Z36-976

Brake rotors to 2005 Tundra, Toyota p/n 43512-0C011
This installation used Power Stop p/n 1PST JBR935XPR

FROR brake mounting kit
Tacoma and 4Runner Brake Mounting Kit

Wheel hub to a FROR modified IFS hub
Full Tacoma Brake mounting kit.

Wheel size will need to increase to 16" or more. Tundra stock steelies were 16x7" I have not verified fitment of 16".
This installation used Method Racing 17x8.5" wheels with 4.75" back spacing.
Method Racing p/n MR301785602500

Axle width is increased by 1 5/8" ? per side (still verifying this).

The Tundra mod can also use (according to FROR) 2017 Tacoma disks and calipers. I believe this to be accurate based on comparisons between disk dimensions. They are similar but not exactly the same. The rotor sets deeper onto the hub on the Tundra/Sequoia than on the 4 Runner/FJ Cruiser/Tacoma. Calipers and disks would need to be matched and not interchanged. There are a variety of years and models which will bolt up.

I've chosen to continue to refer to this as the Tundra Mod because that's what we've been calling it for years. FROR has made this product for years. When it first came out the Tundra was where they were sourcing their parts. It seems that they have now found a multitude of other possibilities. The basic principal is the same.
 
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Godwin

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Thanks for listing out these parts. I have an 80 series rear axle that'll be going under the 60 and I've been considering what to do regarding the front, retain the stock 60 series stuff and run spacers to match axle widths or go with this brake upgrade.
 

60Works

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Thanks for listing out these parts. I have an 80 series rear axle that'll be going under the 60 and I've been considering what to do regarding the front, retain the stock 60 series stuff and run spacers to match axle widths or go with this brake upgrade.

I highly recommend going with the 80 axle. I'm running 1.5" spacers on my rear FF axle. No issues so far but not a lot of miles either.
 

60Works

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This installation went into a JDM 1989 HJ-61.

The original brake master.

IMG_3240.JPG


Original piston size.

IMG_3241.JPG


Replacement Advics master.

IMG_3239.JPG


Replacement piston size.

IMG_3242.JPG


Finished installation. The original master's cap with float sensor was retained.

IMG_3247.JPG
 

60Works

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Here is a comparison shot between a '95 4 Runner caliper (this was an upgrade of an upgrade) and the '05 Tundra.

IMG_3276.JPG


Here is a comparison between the stock '89 rotor and the '05 Tundra.

IMG_3290.JPG


The improvement is more than just the added mechanical advantage of the larger diameter. The Tundra is significantly thicker with more cooling vent cross section.

IMG_3287.JPG
 

60Works

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A picture of FROR's adapter kit (picture sourced from FROR's website).

FROR Brake Adaptor Kit.jpg


The original brake caliper mounting ears need to be cut or the knuckles swapped left to right so they protrude towards the front and are out of the way. Does anyone know why the calipers must be mounted on the aft side of the axle? Could the calipers be swapped left to right (to keep the bleed screw at the top) and mounted on the front of the axle (avoiding the need to swap knuckles)? The brake line would be more vulnerable. I observed many cars in traffic and they all had the calipers on the rear on the front axle. (It's probably obvious to everyone but me.)

Edit - the calipers would interfere with the steering arms if they were placed in front. (Duh)

IMG_3279.JPG

FROR removes the water shield gasket on their installations. I chose to modify and keep it. This was a pain but I expect this truck to see some pretty wet and muddy conditions.

IMG_3254.JPG


When I torqued the bolts down, the provided washers squeezed out. Cheep hardware in kits really, really irritates me. It shows a crappy commitment to the customer. Come on FROR, spend another 50 cents (even charge us for it) and source good hardware!

IMG_3271.JPG
 
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60Works

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Torqued with quality cad plated lock washers and ready for the hub. Notice that the disk backing plate (dust shield) is removed. No replacing spacer is required. This also means the OEM flex and short caliper brake lines must be replaced.

IMG_3280.JPG


Completed assembly with new wheel bearings.

IMG_3282.JPG
 
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60Works

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With disk and caliper installed. Sorry its blurry. One of the great benefits of this mod is that the rotor mounts outboard of the hub so changing rotors is as easy and removing the wheel and caliper. Why Toyota didn't do that from the very beginning of disk brakes is beyond me.

IMG_3275.JPG



IMG_3248.JPG

IMG_3253.JPG


The inboard and outboard free space between the pad and disks are notably different (3mm). This makes me wonder if Power Stop is interchanging the Tundra/4 Runner calipers as this dimension matches the differences in overall height between the Tundra/4 Runner rotors. I don't think it will matter until the last mm of pad is burned and the inboard pistons overextend.

IMG_3249.JPG

IMG_3250.JPG
 

Str8Razor

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I'm starting to figure out how to get 80 wheels on my 60 without using spacers, right now the tie rod is hitting and needs at least an inch to clear the rim, plus the added stopping power of this upgrade will work out well.... following and will update as I make progress.... any thoughts @60Works ?
 

Tapage

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Would need to put this mod on the list ..

This disc remains as floating on the front ..?
 

HemiAlex

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Nice install, thanks for the write up. If only I knew for sure if the stock 70 series 16x6 wheels would work, I would do this in a heart beat. I'm not looking to upgrade to 17". Got pics with wheels on?
I was wondering the same. I’d like to do those wheels this year and this would be another reason to follow through.

I would only do 70 series wheels as a larger diameter wheel.
 

NookShneer

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I was wondering the same. I’d like to do those wheels this year and this would be another reason to follow through.

I would only do 70 series wheels as a larger diameter wheel.

If @gt7058a wants to test that we can try and swap his wheels on my front axle. He has a set of 70 series 16” wheels and I have Tundra calipers on my rig.
 

Spook50

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Wait, are you using the wheel hub kit from FROR, or your factory 60 series hubs? From the pics those look like 60 series hubs. And that FROR kit is friggen PRICEY! Seems like a good upgrade to go along with an FZJ80 rear end though.
 

NookShneer

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You can source the 4-runner IFS from Car-Part.com or your local junk yard. Then have the outer WMS turned down to fit a slip on Tundra Rotor.

You can kinda see the difference in this photo. The stock hubs vs the 4Runner/IFS hubs. You can also see the difference in the mounting surface.

E442B5DE-DFF2-45A1-836F-A577922FBF47.jpeg
 

cruisermatt

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Just FYI the IFS hubs are getting hard to find, at least for me. Took a week of scouring craigslist and junkyard inventories until I bought a fair on eBay for probably too much. :)
 

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