Brake Upgrade - The Tundra Mod (16 Viewers)

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I'm investigating which direction I should move forward with the front axle. Mine needs a knuckle rebuild, new brakes and lines. I plan to put an 80 FF in the rear.
  1. Tundra brake mod on front. I have read that an 80 rear elocker 9.5" diff will fit on a 60 front. That would ge great as the front and rear diffs would be identical. But I have concerns with this as the gears would be driving the other side on the front, on the coast side (essentially the same as if you were always driving your car in reverse). Is that ok? Or alternatively keep the stock 60 diff without a locker, or put in an ARB locker. Interested in what @TRAILTAILOR offers for a 60 axle conversion to 80 coil suspension.
  2. Put in an 80 front axle with 8" elocker diff and coil suspension. Smaller weaker diff.
  3. Do nothing for now except bring it back to fresh reliable stock parts so I can safely drive it. Dont want to do the work twice though if I change it in a year.
 
I have concerns with this as the gears would be driving the other side on the front, on the coast side Is that ok?

This is what your 60 does from the factory
 
So I am just about buttoned up with the swap. Spent all weekend getting it together. Like many projects that sit this one actually is about to finish. Just need to plug in the brake lines and bleed the system.

Wheel Bearing Pre-Load:
I had a hell of a time feeling the pre-load for the wheel bearings. The new seal that sits on the spindle flange and interfaces with the hub had so much resistance it was hard to judge. I'll probably drive it for a day or two then recheck. I think the pre-load is too high at the moment.

Backing Plates:
Anyone miss their backing plates or has everyone already done the eliminator kit and doesn't care that the rotors are open and free? I had kept my stock 62 backing plates forever and the rotors feel naked.
 
Backing Plates:
Anyone miss their backing plates or has everyone already done the eliminator kit and doesn't care that the rotors are open and free? I had kept my stock 62 backing plates forever and the rotors feel naked.

I would have preferred to keep the backing plates but did not see how to do so. I haven't had any issues with the exposed rotors but think there could be in driving through deep mud.
 
For bearing preload; you can measure resistance of the water seal prior to tightening then subtract it when setting tension. This isn't perfect because the water seal is part of the stock equation. The seal grabs much tighter on the IFS hubs.

Your plan to recheck the bearings is a good, necessary one.
 
I can spin the rotor and 'feel' the preload with how often I've rebuilt axles. This new seal totally throws me. I guess the tight fit of the IFS hub explains why it's different for me this time.
 
What wheel studs are people using with the IFS hubs? I reused the 4Runner IFS studs for the moment. The IFS hubs are not as thick where the studs go through so re-using landcruiser studs was not an option. Other than ordering new 4runner studs, what options have people went with?

I know CruiserMatt said he was using Matrix studs? EDIT, he is not using matrix studs.
 
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What wheel studs are people using with the IFS hubs? I reused the 4Runner IFS studs for the moment. The IFS hubs are not as thick where the studs go through so re-using landcruiser studs was not an option. Other than ordering new 4runner studs, what options have people went with?

I know CruiserMatt said he was using Matrix studs?

I reused the 4Runner IFS studs. Have wracked up 5-6k miles so far without any issue.
 
I'm not using Matrix studs
 
I acquired a 2008 4.7L V8 sport edition 4Runner last year. It comes with 17" wheels stock and larger calipers/rotors than the stock SR5 4Runners on 16's.

The Tundra calipers and rotors are the exact same as the base level 4Runner.

Question:
Could we simply upgrade to the larger caliper/rotors that are used on 17" 4Runners? Other than clearing the caliper which would require new wheels for me what am I missing?
 
Front
Question:
Could we simply upgrade to the larger caliper/rotors that are used on 17" 4Runners? Other than clearing the caliper which would require new wheels for me what am I missing?

Front range off-road offers a 2017 4Runner upgrade option with their kit now.

“ 2017+ 4runner brakes (largest 6 lug brake option, 17" wheels req'd”
 
Front


Front range off-road offers a 2017 4Runner upgrade option with their kit now.

“ 2017+ 4runner brakes (largest 6 lug brake option, 17" wheels req'd”
I wonder if that's an improvement even over the Tundra brake mod, or just similar with more readily available parts?
 
The rotors and calipers are larger than the 16" tundra upgrade. Not by an amazing amount.

All the 4th gen 4Runner guys (03-09) want to upgrade to the 5th gen calipers because they say the tundra calipers 'stick' and have piston corrosion issues. I am guessing these issues are more for rust prone people?
 
The rotors and calipers are larger than the 16" tundra upgrade. Not by an amazing amount.

All the 4th gen 4Runner guys (03-09) want to upgrade to the 5th gen calipers because they say the tundra calipers 'stick' and have piston corrosion issues. I am guessing these issues are more for rust prone people?
Makes me wonder. They don't salt the roads here but apparently the de-icer can be corrosive if it sits on a metal surface over a long period. We do typically have wet spring and fall seasons too, so a little bit of extra corrosion resistance would be a good thing. If braking performance is the same (I imagine an only slightly larger rotor won't make a world of difference) but with the added corrosion resistance, the 5th gen 4Runner parts would be worth it.
 
Two questions:

1. Is anyone running the City Racer 16" wheels with the Tundra brakes?
2. Anyone running the Tundra front brakes but keeping the 60 rear drums, what master cylinder/booster combo is known to be working good?
 
Two questions:

1. Is anyone running the City Racer 16" wheels with the Tundra brakes?
2. Anyone running the Tundra front brakes but keeping the 60 rear drums, what master cylinder/booster combo is known to be working good?

I have the #2 setup with the 80 series booster and non-abs MC. I’ve had this setup for a year or so. I redid my brakes prior to SAS3. I use the stock proportioning valve. It’s an 84 LC.

I have 17” fj cruiser steelies on this setup with a 34” bfg and plan to swap the rear axle to an 80 series FF. I’m currently running 1.5” spacers in rear.
 
I have the #2 setup with the 80 series booster and non-abs MC. I’ve had this setup for a year or so. I redid my brakes prior to SAS3. I use the stock proportioning valve. It’s an 84 LC.

I have 17” fj cruiser steelies on this setup with a 34” bfg and plan to swap the rear axle to an 80 series FF. I’m currently running 1.5” spacers in rear.

Non-ABS 80 disc/disc (93) or disc/drum (91/92)? How do you like it?
 
Non-ABS 80 disc/disc (93) or disc/drum (91/92)? How do you like it?

It’s the 93, disc/disc, iirc. Calipers are the 13WL castings. I like it a lot, so much in fact that I want to put the same setup on my 62 with an LC9. My 60 is 2F’d. The 62 has 16” 70 series steelies, so I’ll be checking soon if they’ll clear the 13WL calipers.
 
It’s the 93, disc/disc, iirc. Calipers are the 13WL castings. I like it a lot, so much in fact that I want to put the same setup on my 62 with an LC9. My 60 is 2F’d. The 62 has 16” 70 series steelies, so I’ll be checking soon if they’ll clear the 13WL calipers.

@RudigarP is running them on a set of 16” wheels.
 

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