Builds Body work - fixing my '79 floors and other stuff

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4’s should get you to positive 1 then?
Pretty much where you want to be?

I’ve got an extra set of 4’s from the place you’d buy them anyway. Never installed. Hit me ?
Thanks for the offer. I have a set of 4’s and 6’s from other projects. I think I will try the 6’s, I prefer more caster than stock. 1 is ok for manual steering but I like to be around 3-5 for power steering. I just thought OME had their springs dialed in a little better than that.
 
Thanks for the offer. I have a set of 4’s and 6’s from other projects. I think I will try the 6’s, I prefer more caster than stock. 1 is ok for manual steering but I like to be around 3-5 for power steering. I just thought OME had their springs dialed in a little better than that.
Looking forward to seeing what your experience with the 6’s ends up being.
 
The city racer mounts showed up and were way better. They are a Japanese aftermarket. All the stock hardware worked with them. The locating nub is a bit taller and not chamfered like the factory nub, but still worked fine. Probably even better since it engages more threads and it’s a short bolt.

Sh*tty ebay ones on left, middle OEM right city racer.

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Well, I keep learning the ‘buy OEM’ lesson as I am putting new parts on that I accumulated here and there.

This time it is turn signals and apron cushions.

Apron cushions:
Bought from a reputable cruiser vendor. The slot is off in the part over the fender lip. This makes the hole not line up. Had to re-order OEM. Cruisercorps had oem in stock.

Aftermarket/OEM new/original part
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Aftermarket over hole/OEM new
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OEM new over hole/aftermarket
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I shared these photos with the vendor waiting to hear back.

Turn signals:
Bought from a mud member, new in box, japanese aftermarket. When they were shipped to me there was nothing around them in the tight fitting boxes and it scratched the lenses and backs of the signals housings. Not sure if this is how they left Japan but I kinda doubt it. ☹️
They aren’t bad, just a few things, the pads are just flat, no sides on them. I ordered the ones from city Racer. The base is a little larger than stock so the city racer pads didn’t fit without some grinding. There is no dedicated ground, just the mounting post (I added a ground wire). The bullet connectors don’t have the rubber sleeves, added those. A few other differences but those are not as significant. They will work but wish I had just gotten OEM.

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I am not doing a resto by any means, just replacing some worn parts. I thought good quality aftermarket would be fine. Definitely rethinking that approach.
 
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I thought city racer stocks new OEM turn signals for 79+ models. They are $$$$ though. Still saving up for those bad boys 😅
OEM is worth it. I did go back and check what I paid for these. It was a fair bit less than one OEM unit, including shipping. But you get what you pay for. I will make them work.
 
I’m pretty sure I bought those same hood pads from the same vendor a few years ago, and like most other parts I bought from them, they landed somewhere between suck and ok. If we’re talking about the same vendor of course.
 
So more fun with aftermarket parts. Looks like everyone sells the same aftermarket transmission pucks. They are just a rubber puck, shaped like the original. When I installed it, it crushed pretty flat. When I looked at the OEM one it had a sleeved washer type insert on top and the whole thing is cupped on the bottom by steel. I think this prevents it from just pushing outward under load and getting squashed flat (at least not until after 40 years). I found them on amayama for $7 each and $20 shipping. A month later they are here. Worth the wait.

Aftermarket, new oem, original oem

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Money shot

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I put the bolt on the mount on the passenger side opposite of what the factory orientation was. This bolt had caught a rock before and was bent, less opportunity to catch a rock with just the head showing and not a 1/2” of bolt after the nut.
 
Money shot

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I put the bolt on the mount on the passenger side opposite of what the factory orientation was. This bolt had caught a rock before and was bent, less opportunity to catch a rock with just the head showing and not a 1/2” of bolt after the nut.
What quantity did you get? X 4?

Thanks for the link👍🏽
 
Getting a few things done. I have been a little scattered in what I have been working on. I replaced all the bulbs in the exterior lights with LED and tested them. Added the coolerman LED turn/flasher (very quick and easy). Got the bib rust repaired and then painted it. I bought a 12”x12”sheet of EPDM 60A rubber and made pads for the bib support and radiator support. It was like $8. Worked great. Installed the interior dome lights. My soft top bars only had an opening on the passenger side so I added the cutout for the driver side and routed wiring through the windshield frame to the passenger side. Started planning how to support the 4plus running boards. The late model brackets are hard to find and mine were missing. They are also pretty thin compared to the early brackets. So I bought a set of the BTB/MAF (4plus?) brackets and will adapt them to fit. I will document that part pretty well. A few pics cuz no pic threads suck.

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Putting the bib back together. I probably should have just got the head light buckets replated but I just went with some restoleum. Actually they were in pretty decent shape and I mostly wanted to protect the areas that had some slight rust that I had treated with rust converter. The color is champagne bronze.

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