Builds Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build (17 Viewers)

[jlm43]

Interesting idea! It is doable. I will take a look.

Thanks! That would be great. I'll definitely take one if it can work.

Some thoughts I had about it. A layer of felt over the part that touches the interior of the door would help mitigate any damage but it could make it more slippery. Adding a thin layer of rubber to the other touch points could help with the slipping. But then would that require a dimensional change to the design?

There are definitely some warnings, or things to be aware of, involved with the use of this one. I'm weighing it at 180 pounds and I try to avoid putting all of my weight on the door as I will use my arms to take some of the weight. With the door being closed, it is supported on both ends as the latch will not allow for it to move in a downward motion far enough to distort any of the structure. If the door was open and only supported on one side, then it would be a different story. If you think of how the crash tests are done on vehicles now, putting >200lbs on the closed door shouldn't pose an issue. I think as far as the structure is concerned, the door being closed is the best bet.

I've looked into the Moki door steps as they are a slick idea but they aren't really any higher than the tire. That also puts a lot of stress on the two screws holding the latch to the frame.

 

[BenCC]

Thanks! That would be great. I'll definitely take one if it can work.

Some thoughts I had about it. A layer of felt over the part that touches the interior of the door would help mitigate any damage but it could make it more slippery. Adding a thin layer of rubber to the other touch points could help with the slipping. But then would that require a dimensional change to the design?

There are definitely some warnings, or things to be aware of, involved with the use of this one. I'm weighing it at 180 pounds and I try to avoid putting all of my weight on the door as I will use my arms to take some of the weight. With the door being closed, it is supported on both ends as the latch will not allow for it to move in a downward motion far enough to distort any of the structure. If the door was open and only supported on one side, then it would be a different story. If you think of how the crash tests are done on vehicles now, putting >200lbs on the closed door shouldn't pose an issue. I think as far as the structure is concerned, the door being closed is the best bet.

I've looked into the Moki door steps as they are a slick idea but they aren't really any higher than the tire. That also puts a lot of stress on the two screws holding the latch to the frame.

I am thinking print a inner layer that touches the door with TPU (Thermoplastic polyurethane). This material is soft (Hardness 80A) like rubber and grips well. THe main body will be in high infill ABS.
For the structural stiffness and toughness, I may do a quick run with finite element analysis and test with my own body weight. Will keep you posted.

 

[jlm43]

I am thinking print a inner layer that touches the door with TPU (Thermoplastic polyurethane). This material is soft (Hardness 80A) like rubber and grips well. THe main body will be in high infill ABS.

I didn’t know you could do that. That’s awesome.

 

[BenCC]

Let me know when these are ready! Can't wait to get one.

Great. I am working with suprarx7nut to find a best print method for this make.

 

[M1VOOD2O]

@geanes
@gregnash

Is this the mount you guys want?
View attachment 2255122

I love this.

 

[eurodre]

I'm in for the ram mount as well.

On the first page you have it pictured going in the LC change pocket/LX470 AHC controller. Is that where this recent one will go?

 

[geanes]

I'm in for the ram mount as well.

On the first page you have it pictured going in the LC change pocket/LX470 AHC controller. Is that where this recent one will go?

If this is the same one immediately above, it's a RAM ball mount specifically for the lower right center console panel (below the passenger air vent) on pre-face lift 100s. The dash changed in 04 I believe.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

A test print and assembly of M2 Ram Ball mount. CAD was revised to clear the factory panel. Final version should be very close to this. Clearance was also tested by connecting a Ram double socket arm.

View attachment 2258828

I am waiting for this one too.

 

[eurodre]

If this is the same one immediately above, it's a RAM ball mount specifically for the lower right center console panel (below the passenger air vent) on pre-face lift 100s. The dash changed in 04 I believe.

How about this one as seen on the first page? Sorry if i missed it

 

[BenCC]

How about this one as seen on the first page? Sorry if i missed it

View attachment 2262024

All make 6 versions go for the change pocket / AHC controller.

 

[BenCC]

1. Overview of the Final Product

2. Introduction

This make is to mount a RAM Diamond Ball Base.


3. Design and Fabrication

The design is revised from M2V1 to address the request on mounting a RAM ball on the blank panel. M2V1 is printed with resin since there is almost no stress on the part. But for mounting a phone, stiffness and toughness need to be considered. @suprarx7nut has the capability to print in carbon fiber nylon plus strategically placed continuous fiberglass. I did the design and prototyping. suprax7nut will do the production. The following figure shows the part with reinforcement fibers.

4. Purchase List to Complete the Installation

RAM Ball Mount

5. Purchase Link

Incomplete

 

[suprarx7nut]

Make 2 V2: RAM Ball Mount for the Lower Right Center Console Panel

1. Overview of the Final Product

View attachment 2262277

View attachment 2262280


2. Introduction

This make is to mount a RAM Diamond Ball Base.


3. Design and Fabrication

The design is revised from M2V1 to address the request on mounting a RAM ball on the blank panel. M2V1 is printed with resin since there is almost no stress on the part. But for mounting a phone, stiffness and toughness need to be considered. @suprarx7nut has the capability to print in carbon fiber nylon plus strategically placed continuous fiberglass. I did the design and prototyping. suprax7nut will do the production. The following figure shows the part with reinforcement fibers.

View attachment 2262290

4. Purchase List to Complete the Installation

RAM Ball Mount

5. Purchase Link

Incomplete

First test print on the YotaMD printer underway and laying down some fiber!

 

[jlm43]

M6V6 is all mounted and working great. Much more stable than the suction cup mount. M7V1 will be a weekend project as I’m still just as busy at work as ever. Thanks @BenCC!!!

 

[gregnash]

OOOoooh.... and so begins the first collaboration between BenCC and YotaMD!

 

[Sloth Cruiser]

The Moki might work for you, though it's lower than the window.

Rightline Gear Moki Door Step | REI Co-op

Short reach or tall vehicle? Either way, the Moki door step from Rightline Gear will help. It attaches to your vehicle to help you retrieve your kayak, skis or whatever else is stored up top.

www.rei.com

I have this. It's awesome and highly recommend if you're vertically challenged. Without it it's nearly impossible for me to get skis, cargo into my roof box.

 

[hoser]

Ben, here's another idea... folks want the OEM hand throttle and they want it recessed so they don't bump their knee into it. The OEM panel is not compatible with our NA 100's. How about a flush mounted insert that we can install into a cut-out of our existing panel?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hand-throttle-idle-up-install.599779/

The Not Quite 100% OEM Manual Hand Throttle Modification

OEM Manual Hand Throttle Modification A couple of forum links for reference for this modification: Akella’s Vendor Thread – This thread will give you an overview of the modification and give you directions on ordering from Yan (Akella). Shane’s Installation Thread – This thread is...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Otter]

Super happy with the center console outlets Make 7v1. Easy to connect. I ran a 12 gauge wire from my rear fuse panel so it's always on. I've been wanting some within reach of the driver's seat. I do recommend the flag style connectors, otherwise you'll need to bend over the connections on the blue sea outlets.

 

[geanes]

Super happy with the center console outlets Make 7v1. Easy to connect. I ran a 12 gauge wire from my rear fuse panel so it's always on. I've been wanting some within reach of the driver's seat. I do recommend the flag style connectors, otherwise you'll need to bend over the connections on the blue sea outlets.

View attachment 2267935View attachment 2267936

Nice! Did you remove the cupholder tray?

 

[Otter]

Nice! Did you remove the cupholder tray?

Nope, that's still functional.

 

[geanes]

Nope, that's still functional.

Sorry, meant did you have to remove it to take the console off or could you just snap the console loose without removing it.