Any Advice for Stuck Crank Bolt? (1 Viewer)

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OK, so I tried to change the oil pump o-ring over the weekend.

I'm not having any luck with the crank bolt.

I tried the starter bump method and the pulley rotates a little then stops under force.

So I got out my air impact, set it to 125psi, and hammered on it for a good 10 minutes with no budge.

Anybody know of any other way to get this out? I'm stumped!

What a waste of time to pull the battery and radiator for this! I thought my biggest problem would be the screws... Ha!

Any help appreciated. Thanks
 
14MM IMPACT socket on the flywheel bolt.

3/4" drive breaker bar
36" long cheater pipe that fits over breaker bar above.

You can buy both at Harbor Freight or Lowes (@LS1FJ40 )

If you try this with a 1/2" breaker bar, you will twist off the square drive on the breaker bar. I did this. My truck would not even bump on the starter method.
 
14MM IMPACT socket on the flywheel bolt.

3/4" drive breaker bar
36" long cheater pipe that fits over breaker bar above.

You can buy both at Harbor Freight or Lowes (@LS1FJ40 )

If you try this with a 1/2" breaker bar, you will twist off the square drive on the breaker bar. I did this. My truck would not even bump on the starter method.

This ^ is the method I always use when doing this job. Once I've got the 14mm (6 point) deep well on the flywheel bolt I slowly rotate the crank around with a smaller ratchet until I feel it lock up. Then I climb into the engine bay with the 3/4 drive and 3 ft of pipe for the big finish !
 
14MM IMPACT socket on the flywheel bolt.

3/4" drive breaker bar
36" long cheater pipe that fits over breaker bar above.

You can buy both at Harbor Freight or Lowes (@LS1FJ40 )

If you try this with a 1/2" breaker bar, you will twist off the square drive on the breaker bar. I did this. My truck would not even bump on the starter method.
I respectfully disagree. My crapsman 1/2" breaker bar lived through it.

@AaKnight - I'd your starting system in too top shape. The starter method is quite popular.
 
@AaKnight - Is your starting system in too top shape? The starter method is quite popular.[/QUOTE]

Yeah, at least I think it is. I havent pulled The starter but the starter was rebuilt 6 months ago and I have just under 14v on the hot wire. It's the first thing I checked. I even tried a bigger battery thinking a few xtra cca would help.

When I cranked it, the pulley rotated and I could see the engine twist a bit before it just stopped.

When I take the breaker bar off the engine cranks just fine.

Guess I'll try locking the flywheel. And get a big ass cheater bar.
 
I respectfully disagree. My crapsman 1/2" breaker bar lived through it.

@AaKnight - I'd your starting system in too top shape. The starter method is quite popular.


I agree to disagree.......:)

My crank bolt was so tight that I twisted off my Crapsman 1/2" breaker bar drive like butter. Unfortunately, it was one that had been replaced about 10 years ago, so it's not the quality of old...... That's why I had to go to Lowes to do this.......

Same reason my starter wouldn't do it.

It probably will the next time (hoping the re is no next time....) because I did it correctly, not with Mongo cranking on it get it tight.
 
14mm deep well or impact socket in the flywheel. Lock the rotating assembly. Then go after the crank bolt with a 3/4 breaker bar and 4 foot cheater pipe I prefer the handle from my floor jack. Apply liberal doses of profanity. Ask the neighbor's kit to video tape you crawling all over the top of the engine looking for a leverage point. Should come out after a few minutes of hilarity.
 
Neighbors kid is 23, FIT, and female.... kinda hard to concentrate on anything but her when she's outside.
 
I have said it a million times. Get a HF earthquake impact. I have busted off at least 10 of these. Most in seconds, one last year took about 30 seconds and a short air line.
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Neighbors kid is 23, FIT, and female.... kinda hard to concentrate on anything but her when she's outside.

Is your name Carl?

 
I have done several of these and they are sometimes very different. While one rig comes off with the starter method, many will not. I had one that I literally had to heat for an hour and wail on with a very large air gun. I ended up finally getting it off with a large HF gun with 1/2 hose piped directly to the gun in order to get full power. I also reccomend getting a crank bracing device. With a large gun and the bracing device it is an easy job. I always take the whole front off and get a good shot at the crank. That way I can clean everything as well and ensure all the seals etc are put in properly. An extra 2 hours to pull all the crap in the front makes it worth while to end up with a professional job rather than working in a cramped space.
 
I have said it a million times. Get a HF earthquake impact. I have busted off at least 10 of these. Most in seconds, one last year took about 30 seconds and a short air line.View attachment 1489762

Best impact gun out there for the price!

Mine came off with the starter bump method but locking the flywheel with a 14mm socket and using large HF breaker bar should work too, although not as exciting as using the starter.
 
@1973Guppie.... I'm gonna take your advice. My condenser is leaking anyway and the trans cooler soft lines have been on my list for a while.

Thanks guys! I'm gonna try the method that @BILT4ME and others originally suggested. Now... Let's see if I can do it without hurting myself!

@BILT4ME, yeah, it's almost exactly like killin gophers! Haha!!!
 
I suffer from mission creep too.
 
@1973Guppie.... I'm gonna take your advice. My condenser is leaking anyway and the trans cooler soft lines have been on my list for a while.

Thanks guys! I'm gonna try the method that @BILT4ME and others originally suggested. Now... Let's see if I can do it without hurting myself!

@BILT4ME, yeah, it's almost exactly like killin gophers! Haha!!!


just take it all apart so you can get a good luck at everything, take your time cleaning and doing a professional job, buy some new tools, once you do it right and seal everything up you are good to go for awhile. I always hate having to buy new tools to solve an issue but once I do they are mine and they seem to come in handy again and again.
 
I must just be extremely lucky. 5 out of 5 times the starter bolt has been boringly uneventful !

I agree, most of the ones I have done come easy too. But one I did I literally had to heat it w map gas for an hour and commence to wail on it with the largest hf gun I could find. It finally came when I could see it moving ever so slightly while hammering away with the gun. That one was ridiculous and I have no idea why it was so difficult. Did not look like anyone had been in there before either.
 
I have the gaskets for this job, but every time I read one of these threads, I wonder if I should just check my oil instead of doing all of this. I don't burn oil and I don't drip it either. Is it even worth it if I seep a teaspoon per annum? Part of me wants to do it and another more belligerent part of me says this is a waste of time and effort, not to mention the can of worms that gets opened if I can't get the damn thing re-torqued to 304 foot pounds or I mess up any of those screw heads that hold the cover in place. So I have a sorta leaky 23 year old motor. So what?

Thoughts?
 
I have the gaskets for this job, but every time I read one of these threads, I wonder if I should just check my oil instead of doing all of this. I don't burn oil and I don't drip it either. Is it even worth it if I seep a teaspoon per annum? Part of me wants to do it and another more belligerent part of me says this is a waste of time and effort, not to mention the can of worms that gets opened if I can't get the damn thing re-torqued to 304 foot pounds or I mess up any of those screw heads that hold the cover in place. So I have a sorta leaky 23 year old motor. So what?

Thoughts?

only you can answer that, if it is a daily driver then no because you have to depend on it, if not there is no better way to learn then to dive head first into the job
 
Mine started as just a seep but it's getting worse, and is really annoying me. Oil really isnt a good thing around belts or alternator etc. Already done the upper oil pan arch and the distributor so this was next.
 

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