Builds A pig out of hand is worth 2...

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I'm sure the 2f guys will have better advise, but do the oil plug fix and don't forget the power steering box. You will have to reinforce the frame at the same time, where the box bolts up.

Thanks scrapdaddy. Got a little overwhelmed but I think you have it right. I'll be doing the hard to remove stuff right and putting everything else in with the intention of doing it right later.

I was thinking of tearing the 2F down from the 60 to see if it needs anything and resealing it. New clutch. Rebuild trans and transfer case. Axels will go in as they are and I will leave the frame and body as is (with the exception of the front clip and firewall). I need to get the radiator recored and will probably rebuild the brakes. Anything I am forgetting or you think I should do?

simple is usually right... 1973 fj55

these are good courses...these trannies are tough- if it shifts smooth, run it; definitely rebuild the Tcase, and replace the clutch. oil galley plug fix and overall check-up and re-seal...carry on. now when you say the axles, which set do you mean? ttttttttttttttthe 55s or the 60s- whoa, no moer beer:lol: anyway, if you mean the 60 axles, then do ou intend to outboard hangers? regardless, you may as well replace the wheel bearings and seals and check the knuckle bearings- may as well replace em while yer in thaere, right? you could run em, as is- I do that all the time;) but give everything a good once over. also check the pinion flanges for play...:steer:


I saw a guy who notched the diff housing to fit his 60 axles on a 40 w/o outboarding once....it's just steel, right? there is enough room to pocket the housing if you're nit too greedy...this was an SOA application, but sua would be the same idea...
 
I might add, I'm past the point of not modding the frame of one rig, but I have another that will get the more conventional approach, and I don't want to mod its frame at all if If I don't have too(the extent of "correct" for me:lol:) but modding an axle housing, or the Land Cruiser drive train bits:hillbilly: is still within the realm of acceptable in some peoples opinions. HTH;)
 
So I am planning on outboarding the hangers but I really do not want to mod the frame. The only reason I was thinking of outboarding the hangers is because I think it would feel more stable on the road. Am I crazy? I feel comfortable doing either but is one way better than the other? I know it's only an 1-1/2 on either side but there has to be a difference right?

Then I started thinking if I am going to mod the frame why not do it for something with much better ride quality. Think Icon coil spring kind of thing...

simple is usually right... 1973 fj55
 
What happened to the " K.I.S.S. " theory? You already have all the 60 stuff, just use it. Start talking coil springs and Lambcrusher is going to be your BFF. :) ( Learned that from my Granddaughter )

It's easy to weld the new spring hangers on and the steering box is just as easy. Adapt the 60 crossmember to your frame and your done.

AC is going to be tough. the 60's unit doesn't fit so well. Lil' John has been working on his for awhile.

You have a great amount of good useable parts, that will make your 55 a great wagon to DD or go camping. Stay the course.

Sorry for the unsolicited two cents.
 
What happened to the " K.I.S.S. " theory? You already have all the 60 stuff, just use it. Start talking coil springs and Lambcrusher is going to be your BFF. :) ( Learned that from my Granddaughter ) It's easy to weld the new spring hangers on and the steering box is just as easy. Adapt the 60 crossmember to your frame and your done. AC is going to be tough. the 60's unit doesn't fit so well. Lil' John has been working on his for awhile. You have a great amount of good useable parts, that will make your 55 a great wagon to DD or go camping. Stay the course. Sorry for the unsolicited two cents.

Once again great advice. It was solicited so thanks for piping up. Staying the course!

simple is usually right... 1973 fj55
 
Progress

Got the engine trans and transfer case out of the 60 this week. The clutch was brand new! Flywheel still has the machine marks on it! Transfer case needs resealing for sure and the engine too. I did pull the valve cover off and someone must have recently been in there as the inside was pristine. The bell housing spent the day in the solvent tank and will be painted after some ruffing. Pretty exciting to finally be under way.

Finished the head gasket job on the 4runner but now I am having issues with getting it smogged. Sensors, codes and vacuum oh my. When I get it done then I can get the pig in the shop and start removing the drivetrain. Stoked.
 
Started tearing into the engine today. I just could not throw it in the pig without knowing its condition. Plus it was caked with old oil and dust and rust. Some good signs so far. Looks like someone just did a valve adjustment as the inside of the valve cover was spotless. Should get the head off tomorrow and then I'll really be able to see what condition my condition is in.

simple is usually right... 1973 fj55

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Once again I'm stumped. The 60 had 240k miles so I wanted to get into the motor just to see if a rebuild is necessary. Everything was leaking too so I wanted to reseal it. Got the head and oil pan off and there is little to no wear. I am pretty sure that it is original... So what should I do? Reseal and run it? New oil pump for peace of mind? Go wild and do rings and bearings so I never need to pull this thing again? Keep in mind, I am a school teacher with two kids and a penny pinching wife!

simple is usually right... 1973 fj55

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Depends on how long you're keeping it and knowing you WILL have to go back in someday. With that many miles, you know the valve stem seals are bad and the rings have some wear on them.

What's the valves look like? If the head needs work, then I would put rings in, also.

Some of these things you can do at home. Borrow a spring compressor and put new seals in, decarbon the valves, etc.

Run a hone in the cylinders and put in new standard rings.

Leave the bearings and oil pump alone, if it's not in the budget right now. It's a slippery slope, for sure :)

Some of the other guys will have better advise on this, so do some more reading before making any moves.
 
In one pic the flash light looks like a hole in the side of the cylinder on my phone. Thought you had yourself a 2 stroke.
 
I wonder what the cost would be, to just replace somethings. No machine work. Rings, valve seals, rod bearings, gasket set. Can't be too much?

I just keep thinking with over 250,000 miles, it's not going to be long. Feeling lucky? I know how my luck goes. What do they say, if it wasn't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all!

My comments are not to advise, just food for thought.
 
just run it the way it is unless its not running. save the money and do it right when the time comes. Unless you are going to Mohave desert where your life will be on the line. I think you'll be fine in Ukiah CA.

nice swine!
 
I have finally made some decisions. I am going to completely disassemble, hone the cylinders, rering, replace oil pump, and leave the bearings. They are so clean and such little wear. Seems right as rings usually wear out before bearings anyway. I am doing all the work myself so the cost is minimal for the peace of mind.

Yesterday I reamed the ridge at the top of the cylinders and pulled pistons. I did not want to damage the pistons pulling them out! There was quite a bit of carbon build up around the top ring so I think I have made the right decision. The bearings look great as do the pistons and cylinders.

Can any 2F guys or gals tell me how to tell if my pistons are original ones?

simple is usually right... 1973 fj55

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I have finally made some decisions. I am going to completely disassemble, hone the cylinders, rering, replace oil pump, and leave the bearings. They are so clean and such little wear. Seems right as rings usually wear out before bearings anyway. I am doing all the work myself so the cost is minimal for the peace of mind. Yesterday I reamed the ridge at the top of the cylinders and pulled pistons. I did not want to damage the pistons pulling them out! There was quite a bit of carbon build up around the top ring so I think I have made the right decision. The bearings look great as do the pistons and cylinders. Can any 2F guys or gals tell me how to tell if my pistons are original ones? simple is usually right... 1973 fj55

I was going to ask if you cut the ring lands.

You will keep the bearings in their original location, yes?
 
I was going to ask if you cut the ring lands. You will keep the bearings in their original location, yes?

Yes! And yes. Thank you for checking in as there may be something I forget. I have numbered rods and caps and organized all bearings and lifters so they go back in the same place.

Happy that I decided to do the rings as the carbon build up was insane. The oil holes that go through the oil control ring lands were all completely filled with carbon. Got them all scraped and solvented.

On the down side, I have noticed an oddity around the oil holes of 3 of the connecting rod bearings. Anyone seen this before? Think this is something I need to worry about?

simple is usually right... 1973 fj55

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Rod bearings take alot of pounding, looks like they are showing wear. I would think about new rod bearings.

What about the head? Doing anything to it.
 
Rod bearings take alot of pounding, looks like they are showing wear. I would think about new rod bearings. What about the head? Doing anything to it.

Yeah, now I'm thinking why not do the bearings too?!?!?! Have not really looked at the head yet. I will remove valves and check everything out. New stem seals but that all I had planned on. Any recommendations? Ever seen the eating away of a bearing like the pics above? I have not and it kind of freaks me out... What would cause that?

After reading your thread I now have a compulsion to take my wiper motor apart. It is very slow and noisy. Thanks for shooting feedback my way. I really appreciate it.

simple is usually right... 1973 fj55
 

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