Build A pig out of hand is worth 2...

[Napster]

Sleeving the frame seems like the right way to do it but sounds like a lot of work... In order to put that off until I gather motivation I decided to work on another piece. Since I need to move the hole for the shifter in the transmission tunnel, I decided to cut out the holes from the fj60 so I can weld them onto my tunnel and use the newer cleaner shifter boots.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Man, I like that! Didn't even think of it. Would of saved me a lot cursing, too. I might have to buy a 60 tunnel for later mods.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

X2!!!

 

[Napster]

Wow, thanks guys! It is not perfect but I'll get some pics of the odd spots after welding.

 

[Napster]

Started scraping the undercoating off the original 55 tunnel cover and found this paint:

Is this original? So everyone knows, I have no intention of recreating this to keep my pig stock but I was just curious.

 

[Napster]

Got the tunnel all welded up. I bolted it into truck and tacked it together and then took it out to finish welding it. It took some time to fill all the holes I kept burning into the thing... So it is not my greatest work.

The odd parts were: 1)the rear of the transfer shifter hole had to be spaced out from the tunnel as the 55 tunnel gets skinny before the 60 one. 2)where I had to fill the pto shifter hole, there was another area to fill. Can't wait to grind it and see the finished product.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Napster,

That big hole you patched, upper left corner of the transmission hole, was there a pto shifter there?

 

[Napster]

Napster,

That big hole you patched, upper left corner of the transmission hole, was there a pto shifter there?

Yes, it had a pto winch when I bought it. I don't think it was original as the hole looked like it was beavered out with a drill bit!

 

[bobm]

WELDING A 10 AS FUN. GRINDING A GOOSE EGG

 

[Napster]

WELDING A 10 AS FUN. GRINDING A GOOSE EGG

Just spent 2 hours grinding, finding a new pin hole, making bigger holes welding the pin holes, grinding and repeating. I am happy with the welding but wish I could finish some of the nooks and crannies better. Any suggestions for getting in to the tight spots?

 

[abqcruiser]

I tried using my dremel tool. Made a little headway and then just feathered everything out with bondo.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

PURDY...I vote for CLEAR coat...really is a brilliant thing you've done.

On my fj62 manual trans conversion- and as I have made preparations for on my pig- I burned on gusseted plates to accept the later factory cross member that uses 4 bolts on each side thru a plate that is horizontal to the ground...it spreads the load out between the outside and inside vertical faces and the bottom face on each side.

1. tperry616, Nov 17, 2011​

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   LAMBCRUSHER
   
   

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   tperry616 said: ↑
   

   Georg,
   
   I just found that thread and I think that's been the best visualization of what I'm planning on doing. This is kind of a minor question, but what did the interior of the 62 end up like with the H42 installed.
   
   Thanks!​

   Can you post a link or thread title. I could not find this and I looked for a while. TIA
   
   
   
   trans crossmember is in. will post pics of the build later. Now I have to find a gear to replace my idler or maybe have the old gear bored and sleeved???
   

   

   

   

   
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   Last edited: Nov 17, 2011​
   refucculating the calibrators
   
   LAMBCRUSHER, Nov 17, 2011​

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   LAMBCRUSHER
   
   

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   above shows a crappy shot of the a440 crossmember and some plates i cut. next is a better(very slightly)shot of the cuts i made in the crossmember. i then drilled out the spot welds and seperated the hat from the back of the crossmember and relieved it of the nice formed channel for use as gussets on my new crossmember mounting plates. below is the quazi mounted crossmember. i used angle to gusset the inside cause it didn't get in the way of the lines running down the passenger inside frame rail- and it was easy and out a sight still hafta re weld the modified exhaust bracket to my drivers side outside gusset-and paint I did not want to cut out any more of the a440 xmember cause I'm gunna use some of it(the inside mounting ears and whatnot) to mount a transfer skidplate of some type some day just to make use of the existing mounting tabs
   

   

   

   

   
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   refucculating the calibrators
   
   LAMBCRUSHER, Nov 17, 2011​

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   Oh- thats an unadulterated 86 fj60 h42 crossmember
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   refucculating the calibrators
   
   LAMBCRUSHER, Nov 17, 2011​

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   the top of the outside gussets are open, so I under cut the ears and ran a drill thru the corner of the channels against the framerail in order to keep it open-after seeing what those cats in stockton build, angle on the veiw-able side was not going to be an option
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   refucculating the calibrators
   
   LAMBCRUSHER, Nov 17, 2011​

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[bobm]

What

 

[Napster]

What

That's what I was thinking!

 

[bobm]

As far as grinding it's hard. Best thing is patients. If you are re-welding and blowing through it's contamination from previous grinding. Try blowing it out real good with air. WHAT

 

[Napster]

Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try.

 

[Napster]

Finally built up enough motivation to start working on the transmission crossmember. I had no desire to drill into the frame while laying on a creeper so we had to pick up the frame rails and wheelbarrow (using the rear wheels) down two bays to get on a lift. Installed the engine and drivetrain and lifted to mark what needed to be changed on the crossmember. I had to trim both sides of the crossmember just to clear the side "L" brackets (less than an inch). The drivers L bracket need no shortening but had to relocate the holes and captured nuts. I cut the welds holding the bracket for the nuts and moved it inboard.

The passenger side L bracket had to be shortened and holes relocated.

I marked the frame and drilled holes. Originally I had planned on sleeving the frame but the outside would have been a pain to get to, so then I was going to weld nuts to the inside of the frame but the inside of the frame seems pretty thin. So now I have decided to use a piece of metal with two nuts welded to it and then weld the piece of metal to the inside of the frame.

In the picture below you can see the bolts holding the new captured nuts and the center hole used to weld the bracket.

Here are some pictures showing the crossmember modification and assembly

 

[tucker74]

You did it the hard way, much easier to cut down and re-drill the center section

Tucker

 

[Napster]

You did it the hard way, much easier to cut down and re-drill the center section

Tucker

I'm going to have to disagree. If I cut the center section then I would have cut into the bent section on the passenger side that allows for the front driveline to clear and that would have required serious reworking of the passenger side L bracket. Nothing difficult about what I did, two cuts on the center section, one cut on the passenger side L bracket, cut off the captured nuts, drill 4 holes and weld on the captured nuts.

I got all the captured nuts welded to the inside frame rails. I bolted it up before leaving. In the second picture you can see how close the curved section is and why I decided to modify the L bracket.

Tomorrow I will shoehorn the drive train back in so I can be sure everything fits and then pull the drivetrain out again so I can paint the frame... Almost to the point of pulling the cab off! I keep telling myself "not now, just get it back on the road and do the body and paint later"... But it's already mostly apart and while I'm in there I might as well pull the cab and rust proof... Eye roll

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

hey, if you don't need the rig, you may as well keep on keepin on...good work on the nut plates. I used to wish I had gotten ahold of the earlier cross member, but after seeing what was needed for fitment, I am glad I ended up having to use the later cross member- the earlier one seems to be putting alot more stuff between the frame rails, and real estate is already high down there. You'll be stoked with what you've got, tho. Cheers!