Builds A pig for Father's Day (18 Viewers)

[WarDamnEagle]

Don’t want to tempt you on mission creep and I don’t remember if you discussed this in your thread, but are you doing anything to the 2F, tranny, tcase or axles while the body is off?

Yes; planning on tackling all of that to one degree or another. Frame doesn't have any serious issues but does have surface rust from front to back. Will strip everything down to the frame and get that cleaned up and painted (one way or another). Everything else will be refurbished/rebuilt prior to reassembly.

The 2F runs strong but it would be great to get the top end rebuilt by Cam @FJ60Cam. I reached out via their inquiry form a few months back but only got a standard "we'll be in touch" reply. My understanding is he has a very long waiting list and I'm not even sure how to get in the queue. Probably need to at least make some attempts via phone to see if there is any possibility.

I also don't like the way they mounted the A/C compressor so I need to get that cleaned up. Transmission is fine; just needs some seals replaced. Axles need painting but might teardown and rebuild while I'm in that area.

 

[RUSH55]

Looks like you’re doing a good job of documenting everything, Greg. The only thing I’d add is to make sure to take lots of extra reference pics from multiple angles. They’ll help a lot when you’re going back together.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Looks like you’re doing a good job of documenting everything, Greg. The only thing I’d add is to make sure to take lots of extra reference pics from multiple angles. They’ll help a lot when you’re going back together.

Thanks; I'm trying! Not sure if you can ever take enough photos but I'm up to 390 so far in my pig folder.

Battery tray has seen better days. Pretty sure I bought one from my Yemeni friend while I was in Saudi. Once I get this body off I need to take inventory of all the parts I have. Just placed a pretty big order from the running list I started when I commenced the teardown. Trying to avoid items I already have but the old memory isn't what it used to be.

 

[bobm]

STAINLESS

 

[WarDamnEagle]

STAINLESS

Or good batteries.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Spent more like 5 hours total today. Got the front heater and all the water hoses out. Those rear hoses were a bit of a pain and I didn't want to damage them. Finally separated the two hoses by removing the two clamps that hold them together so that I could twist them individually. That gave me enough motion to break them loose.

Stripped both engine bay fender areas including the wire harness connections. Now I just need to tackle the firewall in the engine bay.

What's the best way to get all the brake and clutch fluid out of the lines (or as much as possible) before removing the Master cylinders and hardlines in the engine bay? Disconnect a rear brake line and pump the brakes? Forgive me if that's a stupid question. I have several but thought one per day is enough.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Drain the master cylinders and blow the lines out. Disconnect the lines at the brake cylinders and connect fuel line to the hard lines and put the end of the fuel line in an empty oil container and blow ‘em out from the engine bay.

 

[RUSH55]

Maybe one of those pneumatic vacuum brake bleeder kits?

 

[bobm]

. Kiddin

 

[scrapdaddy]

Just try'n to help, right Bob!

 

[PabloCruise]

Me 3

The shackle angle police

View attachment 3814712

You boys like Mexico???

 

[RUSH55]

You boys like Mexico???

100 pesos!

 

[bobm]

Wer'e the Millers

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Didn't get into the shop yesterday; tied up on domestic duties. Made a lot of progress in a few hours today. Seems like everything is pretty easy now that the AC and heater systems are done. I have a few thoughts to share but for now will just share a couple of photos. I even took the time today to put away all the tools that I had pulled out over the last week or so. All present and accounted for.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

So there's 3 or 4 areas I will comment on from the last few days that might help someone in the future. The steering column started off easy enough as I had already replaced the turn signal assembly a few years ago. So pull the steering wheel, clamshell, turn signal assembly, etc. until you have just the shaft and tube. Again, lots of details I'm glossing over but pretty straightforward. Now pull the tube from the firewall (4 bolts) and you are left with the rectangular cover and the shaft. There are 6 bolts in the cover, easy enough to remove, but the cover was stuck to the firewall like glue. There is a gasket behind the cover that Toyota calls a "shield". Not sure if a PO actually used glue or if that shield came extra sticky; I had to carefully drive a a tape knife in around 3/4 of the cover before I could get it to pry off.

Now you need to pull the steering shaft out of the first yoke assembly. Don't even try. I disassembled the steering shaft side of the yoke, removed everything and then easily pressed the shaft out.

 

[bobm]

Shield or not it's probably age more than anything

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Shortly afterwards I had a pleasant surprise. I drained the brake and clutch masters and disconnected the lines to both. I then pulled the brake master followed by the clutch master. Much to my surprise that released the entire clutch and brake pedal assembly. For some reason I assumed I was going to have to disassemble everything but no, it's held by the bolts that hold those two assemblies and the steering column support bolts (bolts that hold the steering tube support bracket to the dash assembly).

There are a few relays that are attached to this assembly so it's not like you can just pull it out when it drops, unless you have already pulled the wiring harness.

 

[RUSH55]

Not sure if a PO actually used glue or if that shield came extra sticky

Mine was the same way.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Speaking of the wiring harness. I started disassembling the pig from the second row seats back and at the end I pulled the rear harness into the rear passenger side of the cargo area, through a wall grommet around the second row seat back on that side, and then up to the passenger kick panel. I couldn't go any further as the A/C system was in the way. However, once that was out there was a large Molex and 3 rather large pin connecters that disconnected the rear harness completely. Those pin connectors look like they are crimped and shrink-wrapped but they do pull apart. Just FYI.

I then methodically stripped the driver's and passenger's inside fender wells of items and ultimately chased every wiring connection on both sides. There aren't that many. Both sides ultimately pull back into the dash area through one grommet on each side and from there the entire front wire harness can be removed. You have to have the A/C out of the way, if you have one. And obviously all the normal stuff like everything behind the dash.

I'm not sure if you can pull the wiring harness without dropping the pedal assembly but mine was out of the way before I tried. I basically had everything removed except for the windshield wiper motor and linkage. There is a mid dash brace which had one bolt holding it to the front of the dash. I removed that bolt and was able to drop, more or less, the entire wiring harness out of the dash. I think you could thread everything over this brace, one way or the other, but it was easy enough to remove the bolt and be done. Felt great to have all the wires out. Pretty sure it won't be so pleasurable putting them back.

Front passenger side rear wiring harness connectors:

Rear wiring harness:

Both harnesses removed:

 

[WarDamnEagle]

The accelerator pedal comes off easy enough with two bolts but then you have to disconnect one of the linkage rods to ultimately disconnect the assembly from the carburetor. I chose the one that connects to the rod which runs from the carburetor to a bracket on the firewall (circled in red). I was kinda stumped however on how to remove the clip to get this joint apart. There are lots of threads on mud that talks about the link rods and the clips but nothing definitive about how to remove them. I assumed they just slid off the ends but it wasn't obvious what to use. I ultimately used a pair of spark plug removal pliers to hook under the protruding parts that is covering the ball and was able to get the clip to slide off. FWIW I verified that the clips are still available before I used much force. I'm sure there's some special SST or plier that Toyota would use.

78197	CLIP, ACCELERATOR JOINT BALL
78197-10010